HorseFixer 2,012 #26 Posted November 11, 2011 One question, I understood ( or misunderstood) that the block that needed to be milled was no.47 in the photo of parts? This is the piece with the shim under it. You were sanding the bottom of no.19? Hi Denver, Duke ended up sanding down part #19. Matt had #47 milled down. #47 supposedly comes from the factory with 3 shims #46 I believe. The shims can be removed to take out some of the slack. Matt's issue was the shims had already been removed which is why he milled it down. Malmac1 pointed out that milling #47 will cause #15 to sit higher at one end. He said the change in the angle reduces the area of gear mesh and creates more wear in the future. 10-dash 4 Pipes!! Exactly Milling or taking material off the top of #47 Raises the fan gear up but ***** it out of alignment making the teeth of the spur gear and the fan gear not mesh correctly preventing them to not use all their surface area to distribute the load. This will cause the teeth to wear uneven and have premature failure. Thats why I am milling /sanding the bottom of #19 lowers the spur gear down on the fan gear without throwing things all out of alignment. Pipes is correct mine has 3 shims and they will go back in there too! I don't doubt someone has taken the shims out of Matt's tractor already, and that may have Bucked up his TEETH! Pipes missing the shims would in essence do the same thing and raise it milling it would raise and cock it even further out, not correct it. Duke, that is great video on "How to" for the steering. I appreciate you taking the time to do that. Your welcome! Denver a picture is worth a thousand words, in this case a movie. Ill try anything once! We will soon see whether my theory is correct or not? when I make the final cut (movie) and its all together hopefully It will have much less play in the steering. Thats what I'm hoping anyways. Take care ~Duke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raider12 13 #27 Posted November 11, 2011 I understand how the geometry changes by milling the under side piece. I will be watching for the next sequel to the movie. Thanks again. Denver Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #28 Posted November 11, 2011 I understand how the geometry changes by milling the under side piece. I will be watching for the next sequel to the movie. Thanks again. Denver 10-dash 4. Bro, now get that kitchen done for MAMA! Been there done that. Sometimes I think as much money I have spent at Lowes I bought Jimmie Johnson a Couple Engines! Spent $18,000.00 in 2006 everything new right down to the dishes knifes forks. Stripped the walls down to the studs floors down to the floor joist. Did it all myself So's I know where yer at. How far ya takeing yers? And how far along are You? By the way movie will be done tomorrow Eve Late Everything Blasted n Primed & Painted parts drying now. ~Duke of Movies :help: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #29 Posted November 12, 2011 Duke your vidio was great and right on the money, and The 520's with a gear reduction steering will have free play in the steering with all new parts. remember that this is a tractor and not a car that goes 70+ mph, You go 10-14mph max. You have a small amount of play between part#s 12 and 15, also 15 and 49, 49 and 46, and 46 and 25. That's 4 spots that will have some play in them and it will be felt at the wheel. You can adjust some of the parts to take up some of the play, but there will still be more play then a standard steering system on the older tractors. The reason for the gear reduction is to make it steer easy. You can put the non gear reduction on the newer 520's and the play will ge gone. And I do have one if someone wants it, but it will steer harder. this is my :dunno: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #30 Posted November 12, 2011 Hey Duke, I have a couple of questions for you about part # 6472 (bearing-flanged). I saw you with it in the 520 video and remembered you added one to your 417 to support the steering shaft at the dash tower. Does the inner circular piece oscillate or pivot? For example if you bolted the flange part to the floor and placed a piece of round bar stock in the center-hole so it was vertical and 90 degrees to the floor, would the bar be able to pivot to say 70 degrees in any direction? If so, is there a groove or something with ball bearings or is it like a ball valve. Is there a set screw or maybe a tapping for a grease zerk in it or am I seeing things? Thanks for any info you can offer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raider12 13 #31 Posted November 12, 2011 Did it all myself So's I know where yer at. How far ya takeing yers? And how far along are You? I have done most of all the hard and most expensive stuff like the walls and all new cabinets a few years ago. Im now intalling new floors (have to tear out the old down to the decking) and adding a dish washer (never had one) and all new lighting. All of the cabinets I hand made my self, with the exception of the raised panel doors. I ordered those. I;ll be watching for the video. Denver Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #32 Posted November 12, 2011 Hey Duke, I have a couple of questions for you about part # 6472 (bearing-flanged). I saw you with it in the 520 video and remembered you added one to your 417 to support the steering shaft at the dash tower. Does the inner circular piece oscillate or pivot? For example if you bolted the flange part to the floor and placed a piece of round bar stock in the center-hole so it was vertical and 90 degrees to the floor, would the bar be able to pivot to say 70 degrees in any direction? YES If so, is there a groove or something with ball bearings or is it like a ball valve. It's a cheap azz stamped Steel To Steel Thing No Balls To It. If I would have to compare more like a ball Valve Is there a set screw or maybe a tapping for a grease zerk in it or am I seeing things? Yer Seeing Things, Ill Get better pics on Next Movie 4 you. The best way to lube would be to use Spray Grease. With a straw on can Thanks for any info you can offer. Yer Welcome! ~Duke Over N Out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #33 Posted November 13, 2011 Okay here is the Final Movie of The 520-H Steering Repair. Cheers ~Duke HKj7lY2vR2A Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #34 Posted November 13, 2011 Great video Duke and congrats on your success. As soon as I get more time I'll be doing the same. One question - is the steering still easy or does it feel stiffer? I have to order a new block bearing from toro because I let a buddy with a mill grind off another 020" but he mistakenly ground off 0.1" so that block is toast . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #35 Posted November 13, 2011 Great video Duke and congrats on your success. As soon as I get more time I'll be doing the same. One question - is the steering still easy or does it feel stiffer? I have to order a new block bearing from toro because I let a buddy with a mill grind off another 020" but he mistakenly ground off 0.1" so that block is toast . Thanks Matt, as I said in the Vid you were onto something. I still personally wouldn't mill the block I think yer better off taking it off the bottom of #19. Now how I would determine how much to take off # 19 would be to have it all together (shims out) and tight and then use some feeler gauges of some sort Wire Type? Maybe get some small pieces of music wire Mic & lable them with masking tape, and stick them between the teeth and determine how much should be taken off. If you go a little over like I did, dont worry about it, shim the the bottom block thats what those shims are for now dont use no 1/6th inch .0625 shims but I think 1 to 30 thousandths is okay Malmac is right throwing that block too much outa kilter will throw off the alignement of the fan gear with the pinion like I said determine what you would take off to get ot tight and then go .010 over that. I might go out in the garage today and remove 1 more shim and will Mic them If I gain anymore significant Improvement I will post it here. Steering Easy you ask? Smooth as Fricking Silk!!! Remember If it aint tight it aint right! Goodluck with yers ~Duke :party: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raider12 13 #36 Posted November 15, 2011 Job well done Duke. Thanks for taking the time to video this and show first hand what it akes to make it right! Denver Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #37 Posted November 15, 2011 Job well done Duke. Thanks for taking the time to video this and show first hand what it akes to make it right! Denver Yer welcome, I'm glad I could do it and why not? Mines all apart and its was perfect timeing. Now I feel confident that I can get some play outta my 417A but only wish I coulda done it when I had engine off. :cry:I did do the flange bearing at the steering wheel this spring but still have some play down below. Damn engines in the way now! gonna make it rougher... Happy Shimming! ~Duke Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #38 Posted November 20, 2011 I finished tightening up the steering and im very happy with the outcome. Check out the video below. Its not HorseFixer production but I think it explains what I did. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smoreau 658 #39 Posted November 20, 2011 I finished tightening up the steering and im very happy with the outcome. Check out the video below. Its not HorseFixer production but I think it explains what I did. http://s45.photobucket.com/player.swf?f ... 00_113.mp4 Looks good Matt looks like you got everything taken care of and nice video! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattd860 162 #40 Posted November 21, 2011 I also want to add that driving the 520h is now a pleasure! Before it was actually a burden. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorseFixer 2,012 #41 Posted November 21, 2011 It dont gotta be a HorseFixer production to get the Job Done! Looks good Matthew hey we all learn together, usually If I can see the problem I can work out a Solution even if it takes several attempts It allways is nice to have a couple guys working on the same problem to help compare notes. What one guy wont think of the other one will! ~Duke :thanks: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burnerman 758 #42 Posted September 23, 2021 Does anyone know a source for gear reduction steering parts besides used? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,308 #43 Posted September 23, 2021 3 hours ago, Burnerman said: Does anyone know a source for gear reduction steering parts besides used? You might have a better chance of finding a unicorn. There might be some new, old stock parts somewhere, but I doubt it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #44 Posted September 23, 2021 Contact @AMC RULES. He had a picture in Stevebo's meet and greet thread with a picture of a GT 1848 that someone had swapped a 520 steering gear in. He indicated that it was for sale in the post. If you're looking for parts, that's probably your best bet. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,130 #45 Posted September 23, 2021 Sorry, already spoken for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,926 #46 Posted September 24, 2021 11 hours ago, AMC RULES said: Sorry, already spoken for. Hydro trans too, or just the steering? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites