EdG. 5 #1 Posted October 8, 2011 Moderator--- If this is in the wrong place please feel free move it as I was not sure where it should be. I have placed an ad in the Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darren 49 #2 Posted October 8, 2011 I think it's a great idea Ed, they're impossible to find in the UK and I'd been wondering about importing the parts and fabricating a blade, to the point that I'd drawn up a list of parts for import. I'd be interested in a kit, less the blade, for my own use - I think the size and weight of the blade would make that impractical. From my perspective, having the frame pre-welded would be a great help. I'm not sure of the $ and I hadn't priced up my shopping list. Hopefully someone can help you there. I hope it takes off, not for any selfish reason but because like with the tombstone weights, it's great to see the community supporting itself when it comes to keeping the brand alive best of luck with it, I'll subscribe to the thread. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shootinok 15 #3 Posted October 8, 2011 I'd love to have a mid mount grader blade and would like to see what you come up with. I would even be interested in your "kit" idea. To make things even cheaper - you could let people get thier own hardware then you dont have to ship it. I have been watching for a piece of pipe to show up on a job site big enough to cut out a blade from. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rexman72 210 #4 Posted October 8, 2011 Ed i am sure if you built them they will sell.Keep us posted also. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,102 #5 Posted October 8, 2011 Sounds like a great idea, the price point for a kit be the only issue. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mr.pipes 4 #6 Posted October 8, 2011 I think that is a great idea. If you offered am unassembled kit with all the pieces cut and welded except the hardware, blade, paint and assembly that would keep your costs and shipping low. A RS member who made his own grader went to a local metal shop and got a blade and had it rolled for $50. 40" grader blades that have been sold here and EBay usually ship for about $40. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wingrider 21 #7 Posted October 8, 2011 I made my first mid mount blade about 20 years ago. I used a old 6" grader cutting edge for a blade. the biggest problem with that was the sharp part of the blade being wore off it didn't cut very well, but it did the job. Last spring I was talking to one of the salesman that I buy cutting edges & snow plow blades from, about building a new version of that blade again. He told me his company had some 48" X 8" cutting edges that I could buy for $40.00 each. I bought 2 of them from him and have used that as the cutting edge for the new improved version of the mid mount blade. I put that blade on a 876 I have and it worked really good, however its just a little too long for the short frame tractor. If I put it on a long wheelbase tractor I can get enought angle on it to make the snow slide along the blade instead of just building up in front of the blade and sliding in front of the tractor. If I can keep it slick with enough snow plow wax it slides right across and to the side like it should. If your thinking of building your own version of this blade find a company that sells cutting edges and grader blades and I'm sure you could find a great cutting edge thats got some strength and weight that it will to do the job. Good luck with your project Wingrider Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #8 Posted October 9, 2011 Ok, I'm going to try to add my first picture to a post. A picture of my #7-1112 grader blade drawing. The reason I am posting this picture is notice the 11.75" dim. This is about 2" shorter than the stock blade mount. Here is my reason ~ the stock wheelbase is 45.5" long. The mid attach point looks to be about 11 from the center of the front wheel So if I find the center of the tractors wheelbase at 22.75" and subtract 11" then thats where I come up with the 11.75" dim. in the drawing. Is there something wrong with my thinking that the cutting edge of the blade should be exactly in the center of the tractors wheelbase. (???) Or should I move it towards the back of tractor a couple inches as per the factory position. I might add that the picture of the blade is shown in the lower position on a level surface. http://thumb11.webshots.net/t/85/85/4/59/9...31otOQCW_th.jpg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #9 Posted October 9, 2011 Well great, the picture came out the size of a postage stamp. The size of the picture was 762x 420 but I done something wrong. Try this: http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/...087987531otOQCW Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #10 Posted October 9, 2011 Here you go Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #11 Posted October 9, 2011 Thanks!! How did you do that ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #12 Posted October 9, 2011 Someone (I think it was Joel) posted some measurements for the factory blade a long time ago, but I cant find it now. If there are any specific measurements you want, give me a shout, mine is hopefully coming off the the tractor it is on this afternoon if I get my driveway done! I assume you have seen these threads about homemade blades? http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=1608&hl=grader http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=1140&hl=grader http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=7059&hl=grader http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...=6267&hl=grader Also I dont know if Ken Stephens (Fabricator2009) is still building his? Good luck with your project. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #13 Posted October 9, 2011 EdG, There are selections if you click on the 'other sizes' button located at the right of the picture towards the top in webshots. I think it goes from 100 to 600. Apparently the 100 is selected by default. Click on the 600 and then copy the code. Hope this helps..... :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #14 Posted October 9, 2011 Someone (I think it was Joel) posted some measurements for the factory blade a long time ago, but I cant find it now. He actually had a link to them in one of his posts: SHORTCUT Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #15 Posted October 9, 2011 Someone (I think it was Joel) posted some measurements for the factory blade a long time ago, but I cant find it now. He actually had a link to them in one of his posts: SHORTCUT Not only does Terry have an eagle eye, but he has an elephants memory!! :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #16 Posted October 9, 2011 I have read all that I could find on Red Square about making the grader blades and I have seen the sketch that someone made on the factory one, but that sketch does leave out some important dimensions and it shows the 1" diameter 'blade pivot pin' as being 90 degrees to the blade which the factory pin is at a slight angle. And the sketch does not show how far back the cutting edge is from the front mounting bar. If anyone would know what this angle is, please let me know. I made a guess at 12 degrees slant but that was only a guess by just looking at pictures. I am suspecting that there is some advantage in the geometry of the factory design but I am not smart enough to understand what that advantage is. One thing I was concerned about was why the cutting edge of the factory blade was not exactly half way between the 45.5" wheelbase on the tractor. The factory looked like they moved the cutting edge about 2 inches toward the rear of the tractor. Maybe there is some kind of advantage to the 'drag angle' that I am not understanding here. (??) Or my one guess would be maybe the same blade was designed to fit both the long frame and short frame tractors. Is there about 4 inches difference between the two frames? The only blade that I was able to look at and measure was about 150 miles from where I lived and I wasn't able to get good measurements at that time and I didn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #17 Posted October 9, 2011 The inclination of the pivot pin is relevant to the angle of the mounting frame when the moldboard is resting on a level surface - which means that the pin centerline will be @ 90 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #18 Posted October 9, 2011 Thanks, 'TT' You as well as 'Wingrider' both pointed that angle design reason to me. I will tweak my design so that the pivot pin is 90 degrees to the ground when it is in the lowered position. And I may tweak my design to fit the long frame tractors (which is what I have and will be using it on). "Red Square" was the name of the template supplied by Forumer. I was wondering if anybody knew the reason that he call it "Square" ? I can not make the connection in my feeble little mind' Thanks for your help on my blade. Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrader 433 #19 Posted October 10, 2011 I wonder if the reason the stock blade is not centered on the frame has to do with distribution of weight. The blade would get the best downforce if it is mounted at the center of mass, the point where the tractor would be balanced with even weight front and back(accounting for the weight of the driver, wheel weights, and other attachments) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tmix 34 #20 Posted October 23, 2011 :dunno: Ya I might be in for a break down kit. T MIX Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Doubletrouble 10 #21 Posted October 23, 2011 I would be interested in a kit form minus he blade, I have a blade I was already thinking of cutting down for this purpose but I am not a great fabricator. If I could buy the mount and just cut my blade down to fit that would be great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RedMaine 1 #22 Posted October 25, 2011 Hi EdG. I would be interested in a grading blade.. I have a 520 XI.. would what you are crafting fit that application? Also, I would want to know an approximate cost before committing.. Mark Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdG. 5 #23 Posted October 25, 2011 RedMaine ~ I don't think the blade mount would be the same for your application, someone else may know for sure. What I will end up building is a close copy of the model #7-1112 for my Electro 12, which will fit the older Charger and Raider models. I have no idea yet as to the cost involved in making any of these yet, it depends on if I can get any free laser cutting time done. (which is what I am working on now) Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites