Rjenson 2 #1 Posted October 1, 2011 Im having some trouble with my belt slipping while pulling. First of all I have been using just your standard gates green belt from my local hardware store. When pulling transfer sled the belt slips right of the start line. I do have a tensioner pulley on the bottom about half way between the motor and trans and have it as tight as I could without me grinding my gears while shifting.. so my question is what belts seem to grip the best for pulling?? Also is there a better location for a tentioner pulley?? I am running a 704 with a 12 hp kohler and an 8 speed trans Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wh-jason 32 #2 Posted October 1, 2011 i use belt dressing...it makes a huge difference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rooster 191 #3 Posted October 1, 2011 Look for either Rotary Red or Oregon Blue belts, they are about the best thing out there. They have kevlar fibers and they are tough. Whenever possible you want your tensioner on the slack side of the belt. Being a racer I deal with belt issues alot! Those Gates green belts I have had troubles with them being inconsistent One will last a while and the next one will blow up in one race.... I now use the Rotary Red belts exclusively and rarely have belt issues! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rjenson 2 #4 Posted October 1, 2011 Forgive my ignorance but what do you mean by slack side of the belt?? Also can you point me in the direction of where to find the rotary red belts? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,436 #5 Posted October 1, 2011 Slack side is the side that is not pulling the input pulley. See picture below. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,436 #6 Posted October 1, 2011 Also can you point me in the direction of where to find the rotary red belts? Rotary Corporation Website Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonsteffen 6 #7 Posted October 4, 2011 how about the oregon blue belts where can u find them :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rooster 191 #8 Posted October 4, 2011 The Rotary Red & Oregon blue belts are available at most farm stores or Mower shops. My racing team mate is a dealer for rotary as well, he gives a pretty good discount, can usually ship you one cheaper than you can buy one locally, alot of places put quite a mark up on them. He sells mostly to racers and gives them a quantity discount, but I doubt you guys go through as many belts as we do, lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 501 #9 Posted October 4, 2011 nothing wrong with an actual Wheel Horse belt either the drive belts are actually a little wider then an aftermarket belt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rooster 191 #10 Posted October 4, 2011 nothing wrong with an actual Wheel Horse belt either the drive belts are actually a little wider then an aftermarket belt Really? Are they a standard size? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #11 Posted October 5, 2011 We run stock belts on the 20hp,50 cube and the altered. Never saw a reason to screw up a good design by adding pullies. Ya you do have some slipping on the 50 cube and altered when you drop clutch at 7 grand but after that its fine till it spins out. Just run good belts, adjust them right and add a heavier spring. One more thing don't come off the line easy, let it up and go don't try slipping like a cub can. A 8 pinion can take it, Duane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ron Ethridge 13 #12 Posted January 9, 2012 Dwayne, Would you mind explaining how you leave the line with a 50 cube? Are you saying you wind it wide open and drop the clutch, or are you saying you leave with lower rpms then kicking it after you get the sled moving? I would think you have pulling tires too, so are you breaking a lot of the 8 pinion gears, and is there any way to beef up the transaxles? (I'm asking because I just cracked another WH 10 pinion gears with my open rpm 19hp Kawasaki). I have noticed you are running a Cub with Wheel Horse sheetmetal. Thanks, Ron Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SousaKerry 501 #13 Posted January 18, 2012 From everything I have read don't use the 10 pinion stick with 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flatheadpuller 6 #14 Posted January 18, 2012 An 8 pinion is a better rear for big hp pulling. When that wont hold up a spool works. We have a guy here that pulls with a 50 on a horse. He runs double b belts side by side. Leaves the line over 7500 and slips the clutch. It does smoke belts, but he never breaks one and aways pulls good. He said he does change belts more often then most but it works and works well. Before the tractor had the 50 on it it had a military issue turbine engine on it. Very small turbine. Not sure what it made for hp but it it would shear input gears and what ever other gear it wanted to off in the trans. It was mounted side ways like normal to a jack shaft to the rear end. It was also double b belt. When everything was right it was incredible. I always put an idler pulley on the tight side fo the belt bolted to the belt gaurd. Used to route the belt so more of the belt is in the drive pulley. Puts at least 2/3 of the pulley with belt coverage. Another realy good way to run a belt on a wheel horse when using big power is to machine the clutch arm flat where the flat stock is welded to the bar stock. The picot is right in front of the drive pulley. I weld a stud inline with the bar stock and install a small pulley there. Touting the belt over the stock idler, across the flat idler and over the rear pulley. I will see if I can post a pic 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deere Hunter 54 #15 Posted January 18, 2012 Use Gates BX series belts (these are cogged belts) and a heavy clutch spring. Something else that could help, sandblast the pulleys where the belt rides. Roughing up the surface gives it more bite. This is what I used when running an open RPM V twin (60 HP) and leaving the line around 7500. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ron Ethridge 13 #16 Posted January 19, 2012 I really haven't been having a problem with slippage with a heavy spring on mine. I was really asking how you guys were running 50hp and more without breaking the transaxles. I've never run the 8 pinion, but did bust up a 10 pinion on December 31st. There was a half dozen of us with our belt drives that broke on the line that day. I just put new seals everywhere on a 8 pinion that I'm putting in this weekend when my grandkids can help their grandaddy. I also wonder how the open unidrive will perform compared to the limited slip 10 pinion transaxle. (I really liked the limited slip.) Will only one tire be pulling? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flatheadpuller 6 #17 Posted January 19, 2012 As long as both tires are on the ground Ron you will be okay. Our cub is an open rear and it makes close to 80hp. If both tires are hooked it will apply power to both thru the differential. And yes when leaving the line I always turn it as hard as it will go and let the clutch out slow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rollerman 290 #18 Posted January 19, 2012 The 10 pinion diffs have a thin caseing on the diff assembley itself & really are not happy with lots of horsepower & torque. With big power going into them, the 10 pinions will bind, flex & blow the diff caseing apart. The diff assembly on the 8 pinion is a lot stronger & thicker metal between the pinion gears themselves. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckeye25 0 #19 Posted February 6, 2012 i sell the stens true blue belts in my shop my dad had trouble blowing gates and wheel horse belts on his snow blower on his 312-8 horse an i convinced him to try one and this is his 4 th season on it they contain kevlar and are very well built made by thermoid industries. let me know if you cant find one and ill hook you up with a price that you wont find anywhere else Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
