nekovt 0 #1 Posted September 22, 2011 Hi everyone, I have a 518-H that had a new transmission put in a couple years ago (I'm guessing about 40 hours on it or so). I've used this tractor all summer and it's been really great, very powerfull going up hill which is what I need. While I was mowing today, the transmission started to lose power, make a shuttering when going from front to backwards/+opposite. It started to whine a little more. So I checked and fluid went every where. So I poured in from 10W-30 (Which is what the dealer told me to do a while back) and I ran it gently mowing. I saw it wasn't draining in to the pump, so I left the cap loose and figured all the movement would get it to drain. It seem to regain a little of it's power, but still isn't right. I just saw a post about air bubbles in someones 520-H, but I wanted to check in to see if this sounds right for my case to. Is there anything I should know? This made me thing the transmission is damaged. Thanks, Brad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #2 Posted September 23, 2011 More information. I let it sit for an hour or so. The fluid went down. I tried it and it had all of it's power back. So I ran it up the hill several times. Then it did it again, this time losing power to the point where it almost didn't move. I refilled it, let it sit again. Took it out for a shorter try and it's got it's power back again. But now I'm afraid it's going to throw oil everywhere and stop working again. Has anyone seen this happen 3 times in a row? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,407 #3 Posted September 23, 2011 If the transmission gets weak when it warms up, but seems to do better after it cools off, it's probably on it's way out. Not much you can do in that case but find another one. As far as bubbles in it affecting it's performance, that shouldn't be an issue. The pump is designed to run in any orientation- but it must be full of oil. Unlike the 520-H tractors, the 518-H (at least the ones sold in the US) used the 700-series Eaton transaxles, and there are a few differences. First, the Eaton 700s used 5w-20 oil in the pump (small reservoir under the seat), and 10w-30 in the gearbox. Unlike the 520-H, your pump does not share oil with the gearbox. This is why there is no oil filter on it. Using 10w-30 probably won't hurt anything in warmer weather, but 5w-20 is recommended. I know using 10w-30 is sometimes used as a "quick fix" when the 700s are beginning to go bad, but that's just so they don't get as weak when they warm up. The fact that yours is shuddering and making noises may be something else entirely. It sounds almost as if it's low on oil and starving itself. That would make it surge and whine much more than usual. There's a plug fitting on top of the unit where the reservoir line connects. You can carefully remove it and make sure there is oil in the unit- but be careful. The tiniest grain of crud getting into the pump will ruin it, and they are expensive IF you can find one. There's also a large plastic plug on the bottom of the pump you can remove to drain it, but again be careful not to get any dirt in there. The reservoir can be difficult to get oil into the pump, so filling it from the top plug might be the easiest way to make sure it's topped off. The reservoir's purpose is mainly to provide room for the oil when it gets hot and expands- not for adding it. I would make sure it's full before cranking the tractor again. I'd rather it make a mess that run it if it's low on oil. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Road-Track 39 #4 Posted September 23, 2011 I ran into the same problem a while back with an Eaton 7 pump on my 257H. I could barely move after about 10 minutes of running and it would work again hours later for a little while. I found the drive belt was slipping causing the pump to over heat. Once I changed the belt all was back to normal. Hope this helps, Over in Colchester, Vermont :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #5 Posted September 27, 2011 HI everyone, Thanks for the replies! I have been filling it up and it's been bubbling up. Today I changed the belt and it doesn't do it as much! So, I'm taking things apart and I'm going to attempt to drain is and fill it with 15W-20 because now I have a lot of 10W-30 in there. I'm glad you mentioned the plastic plug - I tried taking it off but it's coming off hard, so I'll have to use some vice grips I think. Does it come out counter clock-wise? Today I was able to mow with it for a couple hours, it did bubble out some oil but not as much - maybe the new belt helped. I did notice that the pump is so hot that I can't touch it - is this normal even with the fan blades being good? This pump is new 2 years ago and I don't know why this would happen! Thanks! BRad Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SNYFIX 13 #6 Posted September 28, 2011 We question the new tranny --- Sounds like maybe the pump was bad and they thought transmission ? You can still get new pumps thru Eaton BTW -- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nekovt 0 #7 Posted September 28, 2011 Sorry, I meant to say the pump was replaced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Road-Track 39 #8 Posted September 28, 2011 The pump will get hot even when working correctly. Another thing to check is the fan blade installed correctly? The rotation should blow air into the clean fins of the pump. Glad you can go for hours now! I was surprised when i found my drive belt was worn and it didn't have the proper tension to turn the pump at the correct speed. All looked good but had the same failure you saw. You should also check that your drive belt tensioner is not frozen. I had that happen before also. hope this helps :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,407 #9 Posted September 28, 2011 So, I'm taking things apart and I'm going to attempt to drain is and fill it with 15W-20 because now I have a lot of 10W-30 in there. Brad, It's unlikely you'll do any damage to that pump using the 10W-30. As I said before, lots of people use that. It may even be better to continue using what you've been using anyway. The main thing is to just make sure it stays full of oil and is super-clean internally. The smallest amount of grit in the pump will completely destroy it. There's no fixing that short of replacing it. Just give it a couple more minutes to warm up in cooler weather. Hydros are cold-natured and finicky in winter anyway. Good luck with it! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
woodchuckfarmer 333 #10 Posted September 29, 2011 The drain plug is behind he plastic plug , you have to remove the hydro unit to drain it . I just did the same thing on a 518 . I hope this helps ( plastc plug is left hand thread) Its used in a different application for another tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GPow 0 #11 Posted September 7, 2021 woodchuckfarmer, are you saying one has to remove the large plastic plug, then remove another plug that is covered by the large plastic plug? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 12,457 #12 Posted September 7, 2021 14 hours ago, GPow said: woodchuckfarmer, are you saying one has to remove the large plastic plug, then remove another plug that is covered by the large plastic plug? This is a 10-year old thread! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,353 #13 Posted September 7, 2021 3 hours ago, Handy Don said: This is a 10-year old thread! Does that green "Member at Peace" mean that he has passed? After doing some searching I couldn't find it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GPow 0 #14 Posted September 8, 2021 Yes, I know. Thought I might get lucky. I don't know what the Member at Peace means. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
