last12know 0 #1 Posted September 16, 2011 hey all. recently got a 1962 wheelhorse 702 from the orginal owner. it's all original plus some welding rod on the seat pan and steering wheel. that and it's been sprayed red a few times to spruce it up. my only complaint is the clutch/brake pedal falls too far forward and when i need to stop or change gears i can't get my foot under it to flip it up quickly enough as is evident by the stretched chain link fence around my yard. the rod is adjusted to nearly max..threaded from the end under cover by seat. for the most part the pedal is fine but if you get a bump it's enough that it falls forward and drops.. i noticed a hole in the frame near the rod and thought if the rod weren't allowed to free fall the pedal would stay up.. so i put a bolt with two nuts .. one each side of frame on bolt to fashion a stop that wouldn't allow the rod to drop which in turn keeps the pedal up. it works and doesn't look out of place but it's not supposed to be that way.. so if this is a fairly normal problem what are you guys doing to fix it? thanks bk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #2 Posted September 16, 2011 sounds like something isnt right with your pedal linkage setup. just from what ive experienced with the two 3 speed clutch setups i have is normally the pedal is under tension from the clutch spring. you push down to disengage the idler belt pulley and drive and push not much further to apply the brake. you shouldnt have to flip the pedal up at all. when you foot is off the pedal it should be all the way out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #3 Posted September 16, 2011 maybe you could post some pics of your clutch/brake setup from pedal to brake band. it might help to diagnose whats up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #4 Posted September 17, 2011 Not sure if you have, or don't have, a return spring setup on it, or perhaps missing the cotter pin that holds the brake rod in place. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
last12know 0 #5 Posted September 17, 2011 i'll try to take some pictures when i'm not at work. it has a return spring.. that is part of the problem it pulls the pedal back up too far and it falls forward. cotter key is in place. looks like it should other than there is quite a distance between clutch and brake. maybe 40percent rotation of the pedal on the shaft.. make sense? hard to describe without trying it for yourself. bk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #6 Posted September 17, 2011 i'll try to take some pictures when i'm not at work. it has a return spring.. that is part of the problem it pulls the pedal back up too far and it falls forward. cotter key is in place. looks like it should other than there is quite a distance between clutch and brake. maybe 40percent rotation of the pedal on the shaft.. make sense? hard to describe without trying it for yourself. bk sounds like your belt length is too long, but your not complaining the drive is slipping..... pedal height is determined by position the idler stops at (when belt is tight) and adjustment of rod between pedal and crossrod arm. maybe the belt is slightly longer than it should be and that is allowing pedal to come back far enough that it is allowed to fall further back as the arm on the bottom of the clutch pedal rotates past its fulcrum and the linkage/spring pulls it the rest of the way until it binds on the underside of the pedal. pics of the clutch linkage engaged/disengaged from the clutch pedal side and with belt guard removed from the drive side would hopefully give an idea on whats happening here. hope this isnt too confusing. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
last12know 0 #7 Posted September 17, 2011 hmmm.. think i'm confused.. i'm speaking of the rod to the transmission from the left side pedal... not the drive engagement for the accessories.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #8 Posted September 17, 2011 if you follow the clutch rod back to the cast arm on the left side(connects clutch rod and brake rod, spring hooks to it too) there should be a shaft that goes from this arm through the frame and connects to the drive belt idler arm on the other side of the frame. the belt length determines the position of this idler when clutch pedal is all the way out. do you have a manual for the 702? if not pm your email address and i will send a pdf. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
last12know 0 #9 Posted September 17, 2011 nope.. no manual. what your saying makes sense to me.. will look closer when i get home.. am betting the belt is stretched. if i were to pick the rod up any higher it wouldn't engage. i only run if for twenty minutes or so before work... haven't really taken the time to look close. i appreciate you patience .. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #10 Posted September 17, 2011 hey, thats what this forum is all about. enjoying and helping each other out... :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
last12know 0 #11 Posted September 17, 2011 martin, you were rite.. belt was worn. got a 4l70 fhp green industrial belt from napa 21.95.. it cross referenced with toro/wheel horse part #1576.. i took a pic of the rod and bolt i was talking about after putting it on.. it keeps the pedal up to where it's accessible now.. i left the bolt as it wasn't hurting anything and if the rod starts hitting it i'll know the belt is stretched without having to worry about the pedal dropping like it did again .. kinda of an added safety unless it gets in the way with an accessory etc. a few pics this is the bolt i put in the hole that was already there. the rod stays above it about a .25 inch or so when engaged... before it would drop and the pedal would rotate forward making it hard to get your foot under it to flip it back.. a little nerve wracking when you need to stop... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH854 44 #12 Posted September 18, 2011 That clutch brake pedal looks like it only has one hole in it my 854 it has 2 holes, also the rod on yours is a striate rod mine is not striate. Is it possible your clutch pedal has be changed,also maybe the rod has been changed. The belt should be 1/2 X 70 thats my 2-cents Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #13 Posted September 23, 2014 Ok. In a jamb. Just when the 854 is done and ready for its maiden driveway cruise. I can't get it in gear without the gears grinding. New fluids etc. I adjusted that rod so many time I am sick of looking at it. Grind grind grind. And it's pissible me off big time. The parking brake adjustment is fine. What am I doing wrong? Thank you big time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #14 Posted September 23, 2014 I'll give you a call. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Molon_Labe 731 #15 Posted September 23, 2014 I'd check the roll pin in the bell crank, if it's sheared you'll have the problem you described. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #16 Posted September 23, 2014 The belt guard is off... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,497 #17 Posted September 23, 2014 Ok. One phone call from gene. Belt guard on. Works perfect. I never would have thunk it. BIG THANKS GENE.easy fix. Glenn 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geno 1,929 #18 Posted September 23, 2014 Easy is good. Tractor looks absolutely awesome! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
