truckin88 104 #1 Posted September 2, 2011 So today I go to move the 310 around she won't start, not even a click. Here are the troubleshooting steps so far: - Jumped the pto, clutch, and seat switch with quick splices, so no harnesses are cut. Everything on this is stock and was working as of this past monday or tuesday. - in run the lights come on. -trying to jump the solenoid she trys to start and she turns over, but never starts. -replaced the fuses and cleaned the fuse holders. This is a 1991 310-8 with a magnum 10. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #2 Posted September 2, 2011 i would pull the plug and see if you are getting spark,sounds like no,is the splice to the the seat switch good,i think that kills the spark when you get off the seat,and kinda sounds like the solinoid is gone if you jump it and then the starter spins,but at that point it should start,id check all the jumpers you did,maybe one is a bit loose Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #3 Posted September 2, 2011 No spark rechecked jumps, everything looks good, still no go all that was done lately was a new shift boot wth??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #4 Posted September 2, 2011 Just checked battery has 12.99 volts, fuse folders have proper voltage as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,308 #5 Posted September 2, 2011 Do you have a wiring diagram? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jdog_kustoms 82 #6 Posted September 2, 2011 the tractor should have spark as long as it is turning over and the wire off the magnito is not grounded remember on the m,agnum series kohlers that the engine needs no power to run try unhooking the plug from the switch and jump the starter it should start but will need to choke it to shut it off Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #7 Posted September 2, 2011 What else blocks spark? That is what it is like...no clicking,...no spark....engine oil sensor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,308 #8 Posted September 2, 2011 The seat switch grounds the magneto and stops the engine (dead man switch). Also, when the key is turned off, the magneto is grounded. As jdog said, as long as the magneto is not grounded, it should be throwing a spark when the engine is turning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #9 Posted September 2, 2011 Figured it out.. When I replaced the shift boot I took of the panels, shift gate and the key/instrument panel, which knocked off one of the harnesses on the key switch....she runs via key now...I will clean all the contacts this weekend...stupid move/ oversight, thanks for the help fellas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #10 Posted September 2, 2011 My 416H was doing this intermittently because it had a bad connection, try wiggling the 25A or 30A fuse around while turning the ignition. Or check the coil, to see if its getting power and and putting power out. Goodluck Charles Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #11 Posted September 2, 2011 Oh, sorry your post wasn't there before , congrats on fixing it :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #12 Posted September 2, 2011 Back to it....ahhhhhh....it turns over by key now but won't start, I undid one jump at a time, and with the jumps undone and the harness unplugged, she would not turn over (just dead). So I know the safety switch jumps are good. The spark plug looked ok, I put the plug in my C-120 to test and it fired right away....WTH??? Choking it she will not go...This machine ran amazing in the beginning of the week....ideas???? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #13 Posted September 2, 2011 plug does not look to have spark, but I know the plug is ok...... also tried ether in the carb nothing! Tapped the carb bowl with a screw driver....I am running out of ideas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CRE1992 135 #14 Posted September 2, 2011 coil... test spark by holding spark plug wile turning it over I am not to be blamed for any injuries :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #15 Posted September 2, 2011 have spark, i increased the plug gap..so I can see it bright blue...so what now fuel??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #16 Posted September 3, 2011 i would take the fuel line off the carb and see if the pump is pumping when you crank,put the line in a jar or something to catch the fuel if it pumps,ive had a couple of pumps latly that seem to get an air lock and it takes some farting around to get them to prime and then they do and work fine again,its worth a try,its only one hose clamp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tunahead72 2,386 #17 Posted September 3, 2011 Don's ideas on the fuel pump are good if you think you have a fuel problem. If you can't get it to pump, check that you're getting fuel TO the pump -- check for a clogged fuel line or filter, make sure the shutoff is open. Any fuel leaks anywhere? If the pump seems to be working properly, you may just have a dirty carb. Short of a complete removal and soaking, try removing the air filter and spraying a little carb cleaner inside. You could also remove the two fuel needles, soak them in some carb cleaner and CAREFULLY poke through the holes with a very tiny wire (you can get a set of assorted size wires made just for this purpose at a good auto or motorcycle parts place). Good luck, hope this helps! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #18 Posted September 3, 2011 Will, I'm with Ed on this - if you've got fuel to the carb, the carb may have taken on some crud. The Walbro's in the M-series engines are very reliable but darned finicky. For the little time involved, I'd recommend taking the carb off the machine and giving it a good soaking in some carb cleaner followed by a healthy dose of compressed air to clear out the passages. I'm no mechanic but I managed to rebuild a Walbro in less than an hour and (amazingly!) the engine ran better afterward. Something to check - if your fuel line is original, chances are the ethanol in these new fuels has hardened up the inside of the line and it may be flaking off.....I've had this happen on two tractors. Duff :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #19 Posted September 3, 2011 I have done a bunch of WH's the thing killing me is she was running so good earlier this week. It is almost easier when you buy them not running right...ha I noticed the fuel line is dry rotted, so I will replace all line and fuel filter with an oem kohler in the morning, I will do a quick clean on the carb, new air filter and pre filter and a new spark...see where we are at, when replacing the line. Thanks for all the help fellas we will get her going. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #20 Posted September 3, 2011 Will, I've had good luck with quality 1/4" standard fuel line from my local auto parts store - probably cheaper than Kohler OEM. Duff :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevebo-(Moderator) 8,264 #21 Posted September 3, 2011 You should keep the C125 Hope you figure it out... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #22 Posted September 3, 2011 Will, I've had good luck with quality 1/4" standard fuel line from my local auto parts store - probably cheaper than Kohler OEM. Duff thanks duff napa is the where I am going for it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #23 Posted September 3, 2011 You should keep the C125 Hope you figure it out... Yes I am a bit, but this stuff makes these machines fun...I jsut need to mow my lawn today. I will let you guys know whats up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jimbotelho 1 #24 Posted September 3, 2011 Will as steve bo said keep the 125 it is a bear and runs perfect also I love the 314 I got from you runs very well you will figure it out big jim :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
truckin88 104 #25 Posted September 3, 2011 Ok men, we are running, I replaced all fuel line, fuel filter, spark plug, and air filter. I could get her to run on carb cleaner, but then she died. When I removed the old line there was very little fuel. So with all the new line installed, I choked it, and then put a rag in the carb, my father in law had shown me this to prime one of these type of pumps, bam, she started and ran, ran a little rough, so I re gapped the plug. She now runs great, mowed without issue for 3 hours, she will need a new key switch, as that is getting funny. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites