Pirate 0 #1 Posted August 31, 2011 Trying to figure out a rear lift for my tractor (1987 414-8) The tube for the cable is there, but I can't find any diagram on where the cable is supposed to go after it cones out of the tube. There is no place for a rock shaft, with the fuel tank under there. Can someone give me any info, and/or a link to a diagram to help. I would like to put in a rock shaft, to get a little mech. advantage. Does anyone know how much the cable moves? i haven't got a cable yet. Thanks for any help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
buckrancher 2,679 #2 Posted August 31, 2011 It hooks to a clevis hitch or a brinly hitch or directly to a rototiller Both the hitchs take the place of the spacers on ether side of your drawbar pivot pin. The tiller uses a front dozer blade hitch mount on the rear axles as a pivit point and uses the cable to lift it up and lower it Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SNYFIX 13 #3 Posted August 31, 2011 Think what the poster needs is as he says, a "rocker shaft" or as we called it -- a "pivot point". It fits squarely between the tank and the main cable hooks to it and then a chain goes to the hitch/tiller. Without it the cable will quickly wear on the edge of the fuel tank support. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #4 Posted August 31, 2011 Think what the poster needs is as he says, a "rocker shaft" or as we called it -- a "pivot point". It fits squarely between the tank and the main cable hooks to it and then a chain goes to the hitch/tiller. Without it the cable will quickly wear on the edge of the fuel tank support. The problem is, there is no room for the "pivot point" because the gas tank is in the way. Maybe I should just try hooking the cable directly to a clevis hitch. I was thinking of building on to the hitch on it now, shown in nthe picture. The cable comes out, just above the cross bar on the hitch. The mount the ball is on, is bolted to the orig. draw bar hitch. I thought I would remove the mount, fab a "pivot point" and use it to raise the orig hitch, which I would convert to a clevis hitch. Maybe I should keep it simple. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #5 Posted August 31, 2011 The gas tank is "U" shaped and the lever assembly fits in the space between. (take the fender off & have a look) Here's an IPL image: and here's the LINK to the # 85515 IPL Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #6 Posted August 31, 2011 Ahhh, it does use a lever shaft! I'll have to take the fender off and look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #7 Posted August 31, 2011 Yep - you should see two holes about 1" in diameter directly across from each other in the rear fender mount. They are for the #14 bushings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #8 Posted August 31, 2011 i put a small pulley where the cable drops down and touches the seat support,i used a small angle iron and used the gas tank bolts to attach it,its not as good as a rock shaft but really helps with the tiller and now the cable should last more than 2 years Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #9 Posted September 1, 2011 i put a small pulley where the cable drops down and touches the seat support,i used a small angle iron and used the gas tank bolts to attach it,its not as good as a rock shaft but really helps with the tiller and now the cable should last more than 2 years Any pictures of the pulley setup? Sounds like it might be an easy mod. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IthacaJeff 151 #10 Posted September 1, 2011 Don, I'd like to see that pulley as well. I've been running my cable through the tube with no under-seat rockshaft and it does rub on the fender support something awful. I'd put a rockshaft in, if I could find one at an affordable price. Jeff in Enfield NY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #11 Posted September 1, 2011 I didn't remove the fender, but took a good look. There are no holes in the left side of the seat support. I just ran a cable, and am going to try it, without a rock shaft, aka. pivot point, bellcrank. I'm fabing the hitch, so, I think I can make the arm, where the cable hooks to, a length, so the cable doesn't rub on anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #12 Posted September 3, 2011 Well, I got the cable run, with a pulley. Also made most of the sleeve hitch made, from steel, I had laying around. The part I'm stuck on, is the 5/8" id, verticle tube, for the clevis pin. Can't think of anything to use for it. No steel suppliers near me. Any ideas? Also trying to decide on how long to make the 5/8" id tube. One plan I saw, showed it 3 1/4" tall. If I do that, the spike airator, dethatcher, and and sweeper, I have won't fit. Any thoughts on this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,131 #13 Posted September 3, 2011 One plan I saw, showed it 3 1/4" tall. If I do that, the spike airator, dethatcher, and and sweeper, I have won't fit. Any thoughts on this? Those attachments normally hook up to the standard drawbar, not a lift hitch. If you are making the clevis hitch correctly, the drawbar should still be able to be used at the same time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #14 Posted September 3, 2011 I would like to be able to use the lift for the dethatcher. I guess I will just modify the hitch on it to fit the clevis hitch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH854 44 #15 Posted September 3, 2011 Yep - you should see two holes about 1" in diameter directly across from each other in the rear fender mount. They are for the #14 bushings. A picture of the 2 holes TT is talking about! The 2 down on the inside across from each other. Chas Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pirate 0 #16 Posted September 3, 2011 Thanks for the pic. I found the holes! They were hiding! Not a lot of room with the fuel tank there. I already rigged it with a pulley, and looks like it should work. Just picked up a crimp on sleeve to make the loop on the end of the cable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites