71_Bronco 1,072 #1 Posted August 9, 2011 I am redoing my Bronco, and I would like to get a new set of Throttle & Choke cables. They are the round style, not the "T" shaped handles. I have seen a few on ebay, but am not sure if they are "universal", or if they are tractor specific. If anybody can either tell me a part number to look for, or if they are indeed universal, that would be great! Thanks allot! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,719 #2 Posted August 9, 2011 I can't speak to the specifics of the ones you are looking at, but I purchased a set from eBay and they were too long for my 856. Although they were not marked as such, I think they were Stens. I ended up selling them because I didn't want to have to cut and Z bend the choke cable. I ended up purchasing some good used cables at the Wheel Horse show. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #3 Posted August 9, 2011 The ones I found were indeed from a company called "Stens". They give the conduit length as well as the cable length for both the throttle and choke cables. If I measure mine up, they match, and don't mind bending the "Z" for the choke, I take it these would work well? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,719 #4 Posted August 9, 2011 They were very nice quality. Mine had the twist lock on the throttle. As long as the mounting threads are the same as yours, I wouldn't hesitate to buy them. I was going to cut mine to size, but after I found what I needed at the show, I decided to just resell them and go with the old stock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #5 Posted August 9, 2011 Thanks! I will order them tonight. I think they were like 30 bucks for the pair and another like 7 bucks shipping. My Bronco is going to be a worker, but a pretty worker at that, so I don't mind if it doesn't have all factory N.O.S. parts put on etc etc. Thanks for the help! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #6 Posted August 9, 2011 Unless the quality has drastically changed, the throttle knob on the Stens cable will last for about 8 or 10 twist-to-lock cycles and then it will come off in your hand. The way things are being built these days, I doubt that the new OEM cables are much better. If you are seriously going to work your tractor, install the '72 to '79 (and a few newer exceptions) dash and "T" handle controls. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,030 #7 Posted August 9, 2011 I agree with TT, I am very disappointed with the last two sets of cables I bought, I cut them to size and had then working good, both the throttle cables the knobs just turn around and around, the one on my daughters tractor lasted about 5 twist, I'm going to try to pin it, and by the way cutting them is no big deal, but I would put the new style on a worker. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #8 Posted August 9, 2011 Well, looks like I am S.O.L. I took some measurements off the ones I have, and are as follows. Choke Cable: Conduit: 45", Wire: 47" Throttle Cable: Conduit: 33", Wire: 38 1/2" Both 9/16" Mounting Holes Looking at the ebay auctions for the Stens cables, they list the lengths as follows. Choke Cable: Conduit: 40", Wire: 42 3/4" Throttle Cable: Conduit: 47 1/4", Wire: 53 1/2" Both 9/16" Mounting Holes With this in mind, it looks like in order for them to work, I would have to swap the throttle & choke cables, trim both conduit tubes, and both wires, and then have to live with them being labeled wrong, choke will have a "T" and the throttle will have a "C". I talked to a co-worker, and he said just spray some WD-40 down the conduit and work the wire in and out to get it cleaned and lubed up. I will try this trick and hopefully they free up nicely. They still function fine as they are, just a little stiff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,719 #9 Posted August 9, 2011 Any chance that you could reroute the choke cable to pick up a couple of inches? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #10 Posted August 9, 2011 I talked to a co-worker, and he said just spray some WD-40 down the conduit and work the wire in and out to get it cleaned and lubed up. I will try this trick and hopefully they free up nicely. They still function fine as they are, just a little stiff. WD-40 is basically worthless as a penetrant but it might help if they're just "gummed up". You will have better luck if you soak them in something like a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel & automatic transmission fluid, working them periodically over a period of a few days. Rinse them out with solvent so the oil residue will not attract dust & dirt. If all else fails, you can try electrolysis. (search the forum for "e tank") Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
71_Bronco 1,072 #11 Posted August 10, 2011 I talked to a co-worker, and he said just spray some WD-40 down the conduit and work the wire in and out to get it cleaned and lubed up. I will try this trick and hopefully they free up nicely. They still function fine as they are, just a little stiff. WD-40 is basically worthless as a penetrant but it might help if they're just "gummed up". You will have better luck if you soak them in something like a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel & automatic transmission fluid, working them periodically over a period of a few days. Rinse them out with solvent so the oil residue will not attract dust & dirt. If all else fails, you can try electrolysis. (search the forum for "e tank") I am hoping they are just a little gummed up. I tried working them when they were mounted in the correct spot (before I took them off), but disconnected from the carb. They moved freely, but were a little... stiff. Not un-usable by any means, just a little stiffer then I would like to see. I am hoping just a little lube and it will free up fine. The outside of the conduit has no rust what-so-ever, and neither does the rest of the Tractor, so I highly doubt it is rust inside causing it, just metal on metal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1991ysr50 0 #12 Posted August 20, 2011 I have used cable lubers for motorcycle cables before and its worked pretty well on gummed up cables. If they are kinked at all the lube will stop at the kink. Just my 2 cents. Thanks Jeremy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Edjfleming 0 #13 Posted August 20, 2011 Use Knock er loose by CRC, Best penatrating oil on the market!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aussie 98 #14 Posted August 21, 2011 I have had good luck with holding mine knob up in a vise and spraying PB Blaster down the inner wire, then working them up and down. They free up really well, I use some light oil afterwards to lube the wire, they come up as good as new. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #15 Posted February 3, 2014 My new cables are very stiff. I don't know why. They are run neatly and not kinked. I just took them out of the package. I guess the new ones aren't as good as the old one. I'll just have to live with it I guess Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,191 #16 Posted February 3, 2014 I get mine at Auto Zone and cut to fit if you have one nearby. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zanepetty 117 #17 Posted February 4, 2014 I ordered mine off the internet. They're just like what came off my tractor and supposed to be for wheel horses Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Desko 610 #18 Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) Not related to the bronco but are the holes where the cables go through the same shape in the work horses, 300, and 400 series as I don't have a cable in my dash for my work horse and don't want to pay an arm and a leg for the cable its off a 308 because the dash on my GT-1142 cracked up the sides. Thanks Edited April 9, 2014 by Desko Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #19 Posted April 9, 2014 Search the web (particularly eBay) for "universal choke cable". If you don't feel like looking long, search specifically for a Dorman 55103. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites