How to change gearbox oil

[njdpo 6]

Hi all, I have a Commando 800 - I'm slowly going over and I've decided its probably a good idea to change out the gearbox fluid.

However I can not seem to find a drain plug for the trans - I see the filler plug but I guess thats not used to drain the gearbox - is it ? If not - where is the drain plug ?

Can someone recommend what weight oil to use ? I live in NNJ - so we see all 4 seasons where Im at - dont know if that makes a difference with cold oils being extra thick in Dec/Jan/Feb - BUT I do plan on trying to use the 800 for snow clean up. (and advice on this appreciated)

Also - in the attached picture - can someone please tell me what the cable like thing is coming out from the top of the gearbox - is it gearbox related? (see photo pls)

Attached Image

[farmer 1,075]

Hello,

The drain plug for your transmission is underneath, 4-6" from the filler level plug, you'll need the correct size Allen key to remove it. Use a small pick/srewdriver to clean it out and make sure the key fits snugly. Someone in your area will be able to recommend oil grade. The cable you speak of attaches to a "slot hitch", an option on the tractor enabling it to operate mounted rear attachments, search for slot hitch to see what I mean. :woohoo:

[rmaynard 15,605]

Your transmission takes 1-1/2 quarts of SAE 90-140 A.P.I. Service GL-5 gear lubricant. Looking from the back of the transmission, the drain is a small plug on the bottom, to the left of, and in front of the forward end of the draw bar hitch. The plug is removed with a 1/4" allen wrench.

[njdpo 6]

Guys - thank you - It make sense that its a hidden allen screw ( since its out of harms way).

I will search for slot hitch - Ive not determined what things I can attach to the back of the tractor - but im sure theres a few nice things to add to my collection. (although my priority is finding a mowing deck to replace my badly rotted unit).

Thanks again all

[njdpo 6]

OK found the plug - the hitch bracket was hiding the allen screw from me. Well it looks like the oil has never been changed out - or at least not in a VERY long time.

It was very dark, and had a lot of metal flakes in the oil (very metallic sheen to the oil ) and a few shavings at the bottom.

So dirty that I decided to fill the gear box up with kerosene and run it through all gears down the driveway - and dump it again what cam out was filthy. I may just flush it again.

UPDATE -

I've flushed the gearbox a second time with some kerosene and some 5w-20 and ran it for about 10 minutes around the yard. I noticed that the trans became more difficult to shift from gear to gear... So I assume the flushing of the gearbox is starting to work... Draining it a second time - looked much better than the first time but still quite dirty ...

I'm considering flushing it once more before I start adding the gear-oil to the gear-box.

QUESTION: Is there an adjustment procedure for the shift lever ? the adjustment bolt was very loose and I've not idea how to properly adjust it ?

Dave

[rmaynard 15,605]

QUESTION: Is there an adjustment procedure for the shift lever ? the adjustment bolt was very loose and I've not idea how to properly adjust it ?

Dave

The shift lever is held in place by a dog-point set screw. Loosen the lock nut, tighten the set screw until the shifter is difficult to move, then back it out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Tighten the lock nut.

[tunahead72 2,432]

Bob's instructions for adjusting the shift lever are right on, I'll just add a couple of things:

• [*:1u7kukbk]The end of the adjustment screw takes a small Allen head wrench (can't remember what size exactly, I actually got a metric size to work best on mine once).[*:1u7kukbk]If you have to remove the shift lever completely for some reason, be very careful to cover up the opening in the top of the trans to make sure nothing falls in accidentally (that's the big hole in Bob's photos). And check the roll pin that holds the collar and the lever together, replace it if it's excessively worn or broken.[*:1u7kukbk]And make sure your shift lever boot is in good shape, it's there to keep water and other junk from getting inside your trans, replace it if necessary (they're only $5 or so new).

There's some other useful details and photos in these threads, in case you get curious, or bored.

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=18232

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=25240

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=26541

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As far as the trans flush, you'll see in that last thread that others recommend ATF or diesel for better lubrication than kerosene, or a mix of any or all of those (your 5W/20 is probably fine, too). There's also some debate about whether to drive it like that, or jack the rear end up and circulate the kerosene/whatever by turning the rear wheels by hand.

Either way, I think the important thing is that you're flushing it at all and putting in fresh fluid, which is a good thing. And if you make it an annual maintenance item to flush and refill, even better. :woohoo:

[njdpo 6]

Thanks for all your replies - I found the adjustment procedure in another posting about 10 minutes before I checked my thread - I appreciate your response to my posting directly.

Before I filled the gearbox back up - I had placed a jack under the front of the tractor and raised it up... I was able to get a little more of my magical cleaning concoction out of the rear.

I filled it with Valvoline 85w-140 gear oil and shortly after doing so - the transmissions shifting became much smoother. As you might expect - it was smother than with the old oil in it. I'm very pleased with the results of this simple effort.

If I hang on to this tractor - I will change it out again next year this time... I really like the 800 but I need to find a new mower deck for it ...