JUSS10 250 #1 Posted June 25, 2011 So my 1054 is really jerky when going into gear. Cleaned all the pulleys, conditioned the belt, adjusted The brake, even tried it without the brake, still doing. Any ideas? New belt? New clutch spring? It's really bugging me.... Thanks Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #2 Posted June 25, 2011 conditioned the belt Define, please. Is the belt completely stopping when the clutch pedal is depressed for more than a few seconds? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #3 Posted June 25, 2011 The belt was dried out and cracking. I have this belt conditioner that you spray on the belt, it makes it more pliable like a new belt. And yes the belt stops completely. I've set up clutches on all my round hoods with no problem... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #4 Posted June 25, 2011 So my 1054 is really jerky when going into gear. I read it exactly as it is typed and apparently I don't understand. If the belt is stopped, this really doesn't make sense. If it is grabby & jerky when you release the clutch pedal to go, then I'd say it needs a new belt. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #5 Posted June 25, 2011 sorry i posted this from my phone. the problem is that as i release the clutch in gear, it jerks until its moving. I guess i just wanted to verify that it seems like a new belt is needed as i went and cleaned all the pulleys. one other thing, and this may verify that the belt is out of round, but the tensioner "surges" or bounces up and down. thats why i thought maybe the spring wasn't strong enough or lost some tension over time. once again, sorry for the confusion, i was trying to post from my phone. Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indy w h 5 #6 Posted June 25, 2011 I'd say replace the belt Indy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazm 413 #7 Posted June 25, 2011 Yep .. needs a new belt like the other guys suggest Belt dressing is just a band-aid for worn belts Chaz :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #8 Posted June 25, 2011 alright, so I read everyone saying "use genuine toro wheel horse belts" i know its a 82 inch long 1/2 wide. can i just order a 4L820 belt from napa and be done with it? or is it advised to spend more money (i would assume it would cost more) on a toro belt at my dealership? Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chazm 413 #9 Posted June 26, 2011 I usually go to Tractor Supply or on line for my belts . Toro will be more $$$ ... but then I'm a cheap azz Chaz :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SAM58 30 #10 Posted June 26, 2011 It's The belt.... I have an old 1969 WorkHorse 700 doing the same thing. :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #11 Posted June 26, 2011 thanks guys, new belt will be ordered at napa on monday! thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #12 Posted June 26, 2011 the discussion of what belt is a very old one,i would get a toro belt,where i live its only 30 bucks,thats not alot of money to have the proper belt and as we know we need to keep the local toro guys in buisness for our wheelhorse parts,jmo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #13 Posted June 26, 2011 the discussion of what belt is a very old one,i would get a toro belt,where i live its only 30 bucks,thats not alot of money to have the proper belt and as we know we need to keep the local toro guys in buisness for our wheelhorse parts,jmo if anybody knows where we can get ahold of the oem belt (1592) that would be great. my dealer says nla. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #14 Posted June 26, 2011 well i plan to run to TSC today and pick up a kevlar belt. I'll let you know how that works. $17 isn't to bad especially when napa wanted $15 for just a regular run of the mill belt. Justin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #15 Posted June 26, 2011 If you really want to be a "purist", you can buy a 79-5980 belt from Toro. (#1592 was "replaced" by #114833, which was then "replaced" by #79-5980) It's actually only 81.8" long, but that should be a benefit when used on worn pulleys. Here's a cheaper one from Northern Tool. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #16 Posted June 27, 2011 hmm thats the same belt at TSC. to bad we dont have northern tools around where i am. I'll just run to TSC and get one. just pulled the old belt off and it has a few weird bumps in it and such, thinking that may have been the cause of the jumpy movement. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #17 Posted June 27, 2011 those bumps are probably from sitting and the belt has formed to the shape of the pullies. let me know how you go with whatever you choose. at the moment im planning on using a reasonable used oem belt until i come across something im happy with. ive used a few different ones on the starter gen and mower drive on the 875 and havent been overly impressed with aftermarket so far. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #18 Posted June 27, 2011 I'll let you know how it goes, i need to try something, this current belt is to hard to control and i dont want to be "dropping the clutch" all the time. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shorts 182 #19 Posted June 27, 2011 TORO bought/buys their belts from a major belt manufacturer with their numbers and logo on them, any major brand premium power belt should meet or exceed OEM specs and performance. the key operational phrase is "premium power belt" not to be confused with automotive or cheap aftermarket belts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #20 Posted June 29, 2011 well got the new belt on today, wow what a difference. i picked up one of those blue PIX belts from TSC. i think the 82" was $17. well worth the money spent. it is a very smooth transition now from a stand still into gear. the old belt was very stretched out and i think that was primarily the issue. mowed the lawn tonight and it worked great. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martin 2,133 #21 Posted June 29, 2011 thanks for the info, justin. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JUSS10 250 #22 Posted June 29, 2011 glad you got it, i was going to post it in your build thread. i think the only thing now is the brake drum needs to be cleaned. then it should be great! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
