ricksrj58 273 #1 Posted June 19, 2011 well i was going to swap the bad 857 tranny for a 8spd but when i rolled the tractor it feels like it is binding up inside.needle bearings?don't know what the tranny came off of,there is a # 3901 on the side case?anyone know what number bearings these are? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #2 Posted June 20, 2011 If that tranz hasn't been tampered with, there are only two 6 speeds with the brake drum mounted on the pinion shaft - the '67/'68 #5060 and the '69 #5071 What differential/axle size was in that one when you opened it up? More than likely, the pinion shaft bearing should be a 1532 and the countershaft (cluster gear) bearing should be a 1529. - but we still need to find out exactly what tranz you're dealing with. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricksrj58 273 #3 Posted June 20, 2011 the tranny has the 1 1/8 axels and has a 8 pinion diff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #4 Posted June 20, 2011 That 11-44T gear on the right appears to be in the wrong hole...it should be in the hole to the left of where it is at. More pictures of the differential and the parts that are not pictured would help. Did you want to replace all of the bearings and seals?? If it is the right trans for the 857, it is a #5053...3 speed uni-drive. Are you sure about the 1 1/8" axles?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #5 Posted June 20, 2011 That is a 6/8 speed tranz. It has the old (long) reduction/pinion shaft and an 8 pinion differential - which do not go together. I can clearly see the "climb" marks at the end of the pinion teeth and that is why it's binding. Here's the difference between what belongs in it and the wider 8 pinion differential ring gear: (notice that the old style end caps are different lengths & they offset the ring gear up away from the "dead end" of the pinion gear teeth.) The only way to solve it is to cut/grind/mill the corners off of the ring gear teeth - or change the counter shaft & pinion shaft to the newer parts, which will also relocate the brake drum to the countershaft. @Rick: If you're lost, PM me with your phone number & I'll call you. :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #6 Posted June 20, 2011 Listen to TT on this...what you have is not right. We'll see what shakes...be around to help if possible (parts)...but be at the show this next week. It is a family. :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricksrj58 273 #7 Posted June 21, 2011 i think this might be right Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #8 Posted June 21, 2011 You did well...looks good. Only one thing you need to check out...the bolts in the differential appear to be upside down...not sure about this transmission, but in the others I have been in, you need to have the nuts on top when the differential is placed in the shallow side. The nuts or the bolt ends interfere with that 11-44T gear next to it. Please check it out. Also...make sure the reverse idler is so the bevel is up...can't tell in your photo. It will be hard to shift into reverse if the bevel is not up. The reverse idler is the single gear in the bottom left of your picture. If you did not do this, try shifting it before you put it together. Use a screw driver to pry up and a small hammer to tap down each fork. In each gear, turn the input shaft by hand in a counter-clockwise direction making sure everything turns smooth. Sure beats opening it back up...I know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricksrj58 273 #9 Posted June 21, 2011 there is a big enuf gap between the bolts and the gear.will the gears move side to side when it is put together that the bolts might make contact with the gear?the beveled side of the reverse idler gear should be up or facing the deep side cover correct? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #10 Posted June 21, 2011 Yes...you are correct on the reverse idler. You may get a little up and down in the gears...unless you read some where that it's OK to have the bolts the way you have, I would change them. They make a special effort in the manual to say the nuts are on top. Better safe and then sorry...don't have to take the differential apart...just turn the bolts around. I have never read anywhere that it does not make a difference. Hope that helps. I'll be going to the show, but will have access to a computer, just may take a little time to come back and answer. :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricksrj58 273 #11 Posted June 21, 2011 i quess i will flip the bolts around,better safe than sorry. i will hopefully be bringing 2 trucks and 2 trailers full of my tractors to the show this weekend. thank you to all who provided input/help :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,910 #12 Posted June 21, 2011 That's cool Rick...looking forward to meeting you at the show. I'll be down by the food on that corner. :WRS: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
