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312Hydro

The Road to Redemption

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chris11

Its a great start Rich.Are you going to spray bomb or use a gun?

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312Hydro

Its a great start Rich.Are you going to spray bomb or use a gun?

Thanks,Chris. I'm using an HVLP conversion gun. I picked up the 2 part etcher / high build primer today at NAPA. Also, I talked to a formulator at Niles Chemical Paint Co. where :hide: paint is made. I found out that I need to use xylene as a thinner for the Toro paint. Up to 20% and I also can use acrylic enamel hardener up to 10 0unces per gallon. Toluene can also be used as a thinner but would be too fast for this temp. The paint I have didn't change until 2000. Toro had Niles add a little blue to it at that time. I also found out that you can buy Paint directly from Niles.

Here are some pics of the bottom hood brace plate I'm working on:

1b591079.jpg

0348d131.jpg

91000911.jpg

6c3c9f06.jpg

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corn53

Nice work!!! She`ll be a beauty again in no time!!! Both my 310`s have alotta rust and I`m in the process of sprucing up one now. :hide:

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Martin

its looking good...

dont you just wish there was an easier way to deal with rust?

looking forward to seeing your progress..

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boovuc

Hi Rich,

Good luck on your project! I'm sure it will be a real looker when your done.

When you mentioned you were thinning with xylene, it just poped up a red flag with me.

Toluene is bad enough but be careful handling the xylene. All xylene is actually an 80/20 blend of 80% xylene and 20% ethyl benzene. (Unless your xylene is further diluted). In other words, watch how much exposure you have to it while applying.

Good Luck!

BooVuc

Mill Hall, PA

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312Hydro

Nice work!!! She`ll be a beauty again in no time!!! Both my 310`s have alotta rust and I`m in the process of sprucing up one now. :hide:

Thanks, I wish I could say it was bad :WRS: paint,but the truth be told I just let it go.

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312Hydro

its looking good...

dont you just wish there was an easier way to deal with rust?

looking forward to seeing your progress..

Thanks,I really wanted to try the electrolysis but I just don't have a lot of time.I think its a great way to save the metal. Sandblasting works but it can warp the metal if you let it build up heat in one spot. I ruined a 78 Chevy truck hood once when I was just learning to use it.

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312Hydro

Hi Rich,

Good luck on your project! I'm sure it will be a real looker when your done.

When you mentioned you were thinning with xylene, it just poped up a red flag with me.

Toluene is bad enough but be careful handling the xylene. All xylene is actually an 80/20 blend of 80% xylene and 20% ethyl benzene. (Unless your xylene is further diluted). In other words, watch how much exposure you have to it while applying.

Good Luck!

BooVuc

Mill Hall, PA

Thanks for the heads up on the xylene. I checked the can and it must be a blend as it doesn't list ingredients. I have a good cartridge respirator and will not be painting indoors. Did that once and the garage never recovered from the red paint! :WRS: Not to mention that the garage was attached to the house.Wife wasn't to happy with the aroma :hide: .I thought it was odd that the formulator didn't recommend a normal automotive type reducer.

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Martin

its looking good...

dont you just wish there was an easier way to deal with rust?

looking forward to seeing your progress..

Thanks,I really wanted to try the electrolysis but I just don't have a lot of time.I think its a great way to save the metal. Sandblasting works but it can warp the metal if you let it build up heat in one spot. I ruined a 78 Chevy truck hood once when I was just learning to use it.

i blast most of my stuff. i try to just use glass bead but some times the cabinets have a mix of alum oxide and glass and thats ok too, just a little more aggressive. we dont use sand at all. glass bead, alum oxide, and steel shot for peening. i have seen plastic and walnut shells as well but not very often. i like the finish when using plastic, very gentle and good for just paint removal. i do all my stuff at work so its easy for me to get something done and not have the equipment upkeep and taking up room in my garage. sometimes it means you have to wait until the next day or two to get something done, but its a minor inconvenience. we use empire industrial cabinets so something 4 ft long is doable in a cabinet.

you also need to watch the sort of air pressure thats coming out of the tip too. better to stay on the low side and work longer on the part, than ruin something.

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312Hydro

its looking good...

dont you just wish there was an easier way to deal with rust?

looking forward to seeing your progress..

Thanks,I really wanted to try the electrolysis but I just don't have a lot of time.I think its a great way to save the metal. Sandblasting works but it can warp the metal if you let it build up heat in one spot. I ruined a 78 Chevy truck hood once when I was just learning to use it.

i blast most of my stuff. i try to just use glass bead but some times the cabinets have a mix of alum oxide and glass and thats ok too, just a little more aggressive. we dont use sand at all. glass bead, alum oxide, and steel shot for peening. i have seen plastic and walnut shells as well but not very often. i like the finish when using plastic, very gentle and good for just paint removal. i do all my stuff at work so its easy for me to get something done and not have the equipment upkeep and taking up room in my garage. sometimes it means you have to wait until the next day or two to get something done, but its a minor inconvenience. we use empire industrial cabinets so something 4 ft long is doable in a cabinet.

you also need to watch the sort of air pressure thats coming out of the tip too. better to stay on the low side and work longer on the part, than ruin something.

Thanks Martin for the info. You work with some very good types of media. A blasting cabinet would be great! I just don't have the extra space for it. I've used them for small parts with glass beads and I liked the way it finished the metal.

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312Hydro

Spent some time today with the :) . Don't know what happened tho. :hide: I think my original plan went south on me. :WRS: It's late ,will post some pics tomorrow. here's one:

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011009.jpg

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312Hydro

Here's some of the pics, I took over 100 yesterday documenting the tear down. With a digital camera and 4 gig card,it makes sense to photograph everything I can for the build up.

Question: When repainting the tranny/frame and motor, what does everyone do for paint adhesion? Blast them with sand or something else? I know that all the ports and any openings would have to be sealed . What paint to use on the engine?

There's something wrong in this picture. Can you find it?

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011010.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011020.jpg

I started removing the parts to be painted red.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011024.jpg

Question: How does the dipstick come out? Should I even remove it?

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011030.jpg

My board works ok. Thanks for that post about the board repair Kelly! Definately bookmarked in case of future repair :hide:

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011056.jpg

Got lucky! After reading the stories about rusted steering wheels I was prepared for the worst! The roll pin came out but I still need to take the wheel off the shaft.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011057.jpg

Getting ready to power wash.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011072.jpg

First time I've ever seen the bottom since buying it in 1990!

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011074.jpg

Finally removed the control stand.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011099.jpg

End of the day!

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011102.jpg

A new day begins, where will it end? So much for "bass ackwards" :WRS:

Oh! Did you see it? Here's the answer to the "what's wrong" question.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011012.jpg

Broken fan blade tucked behind fan and pulley! Later all! :)

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dobeleo

Hey dobeleo,I just noticed your muffler! Is that factory? I like shiny stuff! lol

Responding to an earlier comment, My 312-A came with a chrome muffler, air cleaner and hubcaps.

I noticed your eaton pump engagement shaft was bent too. That is why my brother originally parked his 20 years ago.

I wont comment on mine anymore here, dont want to distract from this thread.

I will update my earlier started thread on my WH with updated pics.

Dan

Shorewood, IL

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312Hydro

Hey dobeleo,I just noticed your muffler! Is that factory? I like shiny stuff! lol

Responding to an earlier comment, My 312-A came with a chrome muffler, air cleaner and hubcaps.

I noticed your eaton pump engagement shaft was bent too. That is why my brother originally parked his 20 years ago.

I wont comment on mine anymore here, dont want to distract from this thread.

I will update my earlier started thread on my WH with updated pics.

Dan

Shorewood, IL

I think your muffler would last a lot longer being that it's under the hood more. Is it possible to use it on mine? I've been through 3 mufflers and this last one rotted out on the end. All the other ones did too. I made a new end and mig welded it in. Works like new. Not pretty but functional.

Is this the bent one?

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011043.jpg

or this one?

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011037.jpg

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mr.pipes

Question: How does the dipstick come out? Should I even remove it?

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011030.jpg

The plastic fill tube for the dip stick is threaded into the trans. I don't see any need to remove it unless it is the way when cleaning or painting. If you do take it out make sure to clean around it real well. You don't want to get any dirt in the hydro fluid.

See the two bolts that you have loose in the top of the trans. Removing those when refilling the hydro fluid will act as a vent and really speed up the process.

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dobeleo

Your hydro linkage looks slightly different then mine. there was an adjustable shaft that appeared to be bent, but not in the pictures above. The oil filler tube screws out of the rear end, it is an 1/2" NPT thread. Mine did not have an oil filter on the rear end like yours, which Eaton Rear End is this?

Mine is a 700A

100_0079-1.jpg

I painted the fan and brake black, thought it looked cool

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dobeleo

It's your battery cable that I saw. I had a brain cramp, Im better now!

Dan

Shorewood, IL

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312Hydro

Your hydro linkage looks slightly different then mine. there was an adjustable shaft that appeared to be bent, but not in the pictures above. The oil filler tube screws out of the rear end, it is an 1/2" NPT thread. Mine did not have an oil filter on the rear end like yours, which Eaton Rear End is this?

Mine is a 700A

100_0079-1.jpg

I painted the fan and brake black, thought it looked cool

It's an 1100 I think. That battery cable has seen better days. Did you remove the pump and hubs for painting? Is the pump o-ring sealed or did you need a gasket if you removed it? Those parts do look good in black,nice touch. :hide:

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312Hydro

Well ,It's been a quiet couple of days here at Lake Wobegon.....Wait! Wrong forum! That's NPR ! :)

Anyway, It's been a busy time here at Red Dead Redemption land!Rain finally rolled in today and put an end to the sandblasting. Not that there aren't other things to take care of!

Here's one that took a day by itself.

While blasting the frame I found this:

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011043.jpg

I read here on the forums that the frames took a beating from plowing and I'm glad I tore it down . It would have been a waste to get it looking good and have the transmission fall off at a later date! :WRS: I gouged out the cracks, pulled it back together with clamps and rewelded it. I also made two plates to strengthen the main plate. The original plate on the bottom had split into three peices.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011047.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011049.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011053.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011055.jpg

Also had to straighten a foot rest support that was bent.

You can see the two plates that were made before they were welded in. I also put in the hole for the rockshaft cable.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011056.jpg

It's supposed to rain for the next few days. I'm thinking about making a spray booth outside to get the parts at least in primer. It will have a pitched roof though. I once built a flat roof and used plastic,it happened to rain and there were these huge bubbles hanging over the car just waiting to burst! Never did that again! I'm thinking about using 1/2 inch electrical conduit and a heavy clear plastic for light. Maybe 10'x 15 to 20'? I want to fit as much in as I can so that I don't waste the 2 part primer and red with hardener. Lots of body work before I see red though!

Well that's it for now. I have a lot of pics so far for reference and documentation. My memory isn't what it used to be :hide:

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312Hydro

Starting on the spray booth today. Scored all of the (3/4")conduit for $12 on CL. Spent some time at Lowes figuring out the connections using plumbing pvc fittings. Pics to follow . Rain forecast next 5 days.

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chris11

I had the same thing with my frame, I ended up getting a used frame from one of the members here. But i did weld on some 3/16 plate over the back of it and the redrilled it.Keep up the great work.

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312Hydro

Thanks Chris for the encouragement! Thought I'd post a few pics of the temporary paint booth I've been working on in between rain showers. I spent the most time at Lowes getting fittings that would work with the conduit. My goal was to make a booth that is light weight and can be reassembled later. Did I mention cheap? That was a goal too.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011011.jpg

I used 3/4 inch conduit because I got a great deal on Cl and I already had some. I ended up having to buy 5 lengths more in the end but did save a lot.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011010.jpg

I found pvc 3/4 " fittings in plumbing and also that conduit would fit into pvc water line really nice. So I assembled these out of 3" long pvc pipe that I cut and the fittings for the corners and top.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011012.jpg

Here is the base being assembled from 2x4 s on edge. I did it this way so that I didn't need to level or put holes in the ground. Plus, I can fasten the poly sheeting that will be the roof and side to the base.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011013.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011014.jpg

Starting to take shape . I'm assembling the roof and will cover it on the ground and then get help to lift it in place. Then I will truss the sides just like the top with wire. It's surprisingly strong and just like the WWI biplanes!

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011022.jpg

Here is where I'm at now. My son just took my van to his work and guess what was in the back? Yep,the plastic! BTW the dimensions are 10x20 with a 5'roof. I went this route so I could use 90's at the peak.I should be able to paint quite a bit of the :hide: in it without the rain getting in the way. More to do,fan and filter too.I'll update again later ,really need to get that :WRS: done. Well Guess I'll get back to the roof as I'd like to add a few more reinforcing wires for the plastic.

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312Hydro

Just a few pics of the paint booth. It's completely enclosed and went through it's first rain last night ok. I'll get a pic up of the whole thing later. When you lift the top, get at least 4 helpers. Not hard or heavy but it helps to set the poles quickly.

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011030.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011031.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011034.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011040.jpg

WheelHorse312Hrestoration2011043.jpg

I'm working on the exhaust fan and filters now.

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chris11

Wow that is going to be one clean room, a woman could have a baby in there..maybe you should market portable paint booths. I want a cut . :hide:

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dobeleo

Wish you were closer, id have you paint my hood in your paint room!

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