Raider 9

[condo630 6]

Okay, I like this site quite a bit so I'll take a swing at contributing.

I was bitten by the Wheel Horse bug a while back when my buddy got what I think was a 312-8. We used to do dumb stuff with his Dad's mowers, and to the best of my knowledge the Horse has been the only one to survive.

After some recent forays into antique trucks and machinery, as well as some encouragement/egging from a friend in Connecticut, I decided that a garden tractor was as big an item as I had room for, and within my budget, so I got myself a college graduation present...

I sincerely wish it had a Kohler but this was local, and I had enough problems getting it home so as it was...

Might have over done it on the trailer a little, eh?

So then, I don't know just where I'm going with this project. I have started doing some work here and there, wire wheeling, spray bombing, adjusting, unbolting, trying to get the dang thing working, etc., etc., and RESEARCHING.

In spite of some ambiguity with the decals, I think what I have here is a '68 Raider 9, probably destined to become something else...

I do know that whatever it ends up as, it HAS to be a worker and retain most of its stock appearance, though I do plan to add a few personal touches. I don't think I am capable of, nor do I care to do one of the beautiful, detailed full restorations I've seen on this site, but hopefully I'll come up with something half decent.

Here's some pictures of what I'm starting with and some of the work I've done already. I have more that aren't on my computer, maybe I'll post them tomorrow.

[condo630 6]

Here's a few more pictures.

Decided to paint the wheels for starters. One thing leads to another...

Sheet metal in good shape.

Peeling and surface rust in some spots.

Stripped and spray bombed some small parts to test the color.

Broken bolt stuck in spindle. I drilled most of it out, but can't seem to get the rest. I might take a crack at it this weekend on a drill press.

Front axle and other small parts stripped.

[multihobbyguy 35]

Your not wasting anytime. How did you strip the front axle? It looks really clean I was wondering what method you used. You live in a good state if you need to find any parts. It is already looking better, Chris.

[condo630 6]

I used a grinder/wire wheel and variable speed drill/dremel attachments for tight spots to strip everything so far. It's slow going, and the front wheels kicked my butt and one wire wheel...

There is not much rust, just faded paint. Would an Etank be much help?

[can whlvr 993]

looks good,yes an e tank works great,it geta the rust where you cant grind or sand,like an auger from a snowblower

[condo630 6]

Thanks, it's a start.

Will it take off paint? I don't have much rust on the sheet metal I have not stripped yet, but the paint is faded badly.

[multihobbyguy 35]

I have been using a E-tank on a really rusty tractor and the paint that is left seems to come off after 24-48hrs in the tank. What paint that hasn't come off I can scrub or scrape off. Now I am not sure if it is coming off because there is rust underneath or if there is something that happens in the process that loosens the paint. If you want to try you can make a one out of a 5 gallon bucket for not that much money. Good luck, Chris.

[condo630 6]

Thanks Chris, that is what I am wondering! Does it actually cause the paint to come off (with scrubbing or not), or is it the rust underneath?

Good idea to take a stab at it with a bucket. Sure would be easier and cleaner than wire wheeling all those little parts.

[CasualObserver 3,408]

A regular setup e-tank with washing soda will not take paint off, only rust. If the paint comes off, it's because there is rust underneath the paint.

If you use lye instead of washing soda it will eat the paint off in addition to removing the rust. I don't recommend it though. The point in using washing soda is you can work with it safely, and pretty much dump it anywhere (the lawn, the storm sewer... etc). If you use lye, you have to wear protective gear and properly dispose of it, it's hazardous waste. (See sodium hydroxide MSDS)

[condo630 6]

If you use lye instead of washing soda it will eat the paint off in addition to removing the rust.

Yeah, that sounds like a bigger problem than the one it solves.

for the info.

Hopefully I get some work done today.

[condo630 6]

Took off some more parts today, got sprayed in the eyes with gas, and shot paint on the front rims yet again.

This rim is almost done. I might go to a similar shade of Valspar spray paint for the top coat however. The camera is doing it justice.

The one in the foreground has two coats on it, primer still showing. The other is up to four or five.

I have used this stuff before with much better results. Maybe the white is just more difficult to get adequate coverage. I might actually sand these and use Valspar for the top coat. The Valspar red has treated me VERY well as far as spray paint goes. If ever it does not cover the gray primer, it's my own fault!

Front axle painted.

Gas tank off. The fuel line was being a little feisty coming off the petcock, so I got impatient and yanked it off spraying stale gas in my face. Had a fun time getting across the yard to the garden hose...

Needs tacked back on.

Good place for a Tecumseh: the floor of my shed. It's staying off.

I'll be looking for a K series...is there an "engine guy" on this site?. 10-16HP, preferably complete. Running, rebuilt or rebuild-able is OK with me for the right price...in case anyone knows of one for sale, and if anyone wants a running HH100, let me know, otherwise it'll make a great boat anchor.

Also, is it safe to wire wheel paint off the outside of the gas tank?

[Horse'n Around 22]

" if anyone wants a running HH100, let me know, otherwise it'll make a great boat anchor"

Howdy, I sent you a PM. Im interested in your Techy. It looks like Im about 25 miles from you, Im in Minersville, PA

John

[condo630 6]

Just got back from the ATCA show in Macungie, took a trip to western PA for a few days, been learning to arc weld and had some other odd jobs, so I have not made much progress in the last week and a half.

I've got it down to bare frame rails/transmission, back wheels still on until I wheel it out to the curb to power wash all the crap off. Hopefully this week I'll get that part of it stripped and primed. WHCC show next weekend, maybe I'll be able to scare up an engine there.

Also, the mower spindle is drilled and tapped thanks to help from a friend of mine. The deck needs some patches and the idler pulley is frozen...don't know if it will mow this year or not.

Also, the front rims have a slightly darker shade of Valspar almond gloss on them now. It covered up the junk from Ace satisfactorily. Does anyone know how to get tires back on without scratching the hell out of the rims?

Hang with me...it should start coming together before long. :hide:

[Martin 2,131]

Does anyone know how to get tires back on without scratching the hell out of the rims?

i brush or wipe a good coating of soap or dish washing liquid on the seat of the rim and tire lip and work the tire on from the inside of the wheel(outside down), just in case you do scratch it. when installing my last set of fronts (tri rib deestones on my 1054) the dish soap was enough to slip the first half over the rim by hand, then had only to use a tire iron to get the last part of the remainder on. take your time and dont pinch the tubes if you are running them. then you will be pulling them off again and most probably WILL scratch it then.

[can whlvr 993]

i have used old tubes to protect the rims,on the rears you may not need irons,i just did a set of turfs and the rears with soap slid on no tools needed

[farmer 1,075]

Hi Chris,

I did two front rims a while back, cleaned them up and primed, then put the tyres back on. If you leave them deflated and mask the tyres/valves, when the paints dry you blow them up. No marks or scratches :hide:

[condo630 6]

Hi Chris,

I did two front rims a while back, cleaned them up and primed, then put the tyres back on. If you leave them deflated and mask the tyres/valves, when the paints dry you blow them up. No marks or scratches

Well I was going to do that, but the insides of the rims were pretty nasty, so I had to take them off completely.

I think it might help to mask off the edges anyway.

[condo630 6]

Well I wanted to have the frame and transmission pretty well stripped today and primed this week, but I burnt up my grinder in the process.

My neighbor raised this question: should I be using a grinder/wire wheel to strip all this paint?

I'm thinking of having the rest sandblasted. The wheeling/sanding/grinding has been way slow and tedious...what would you do if you were stripping a whole tractor?

I'll be back at it tomorrow with a new grinder, at least to the frame so I can start putting the thing back together soon.

Also, I drained the transmission today...no water, just black gear oil.

[multihobbyguy 35]

Have you ever tried a liquid paint stripper? I used it once to strip a car hood. Basically spread this jelly out and then I let it set for a bit and then I scraped most of it off with a plastic putty knife. Some spots got more than one coat then in the end I scotched brighted it with dawn and water(I had to wear gloves). This is just a thought. I remember that it made it easy but was little messy.

[condo630 6]

Have you ever tried a liquid paint stripper?

I'll keep it in mind for sure.

[condo630 6]

Quick update:

Liquid paint stripper did not work too well for the frame and cast transmission housing. I'll try it on the sheet metal when the time comes.

Went to the WHCC show today...lots of nice stuff!!! Came home with a headlight lens, shifter boot and a K301. Pictures and questions coming...

[condo630 6]

12 horse Kohler followed me home from the WHCC show.

I don't think this was a Wheel Horse motor. Unfortunately the ID plates have been taken off. There are no extra mounting holes on the oil pan. I'm looking at a replacement on Ebay, waiting for the seller to send me a picture.

A few questions on it...

I knew it would have the 1 1/8" shaft, and I knew my Techy had a 1" shaft, but did not put two and two together to find that the engine pulley and PTO adapter thing will not fit from my old engine. What do I need to remedy this? Can I use my old PTO bell with a new "adapter thing?" Also while I'm on the PTO and since I think this is not a Wheel Horse engine, will that bearing hold up on the crank side? I have heard that Wheel Horse spec Kohlers had a heavier bearing there. I'm hoping the PTO lever lines up right too. I thought the 60's style PTO engagement was pretty cool and hoped to use it, but might end up with the hoop style before I'm done if I can't get the old stuff to line up correctly.

I need a choke assembly for a K301 (shaft, plate, screw, clips, whatever the whole shebang includes - mine has no choke plate and no choke shaft). If anyone has other parts they'll sell, like a drive pulley, please let me know. I'll also need a starter solenoid. My tractor never had one.

I thought that was an awful lot of play. Does anyone know where I can get those bushings for between the hub and transmission?

The sheet metal ought to be getting sandblasted this week. I found out a friend of mine has access to the right equipment, so hopefully we'll spray some paint soon. It'll be a lot quicker than wire wheeling the whole thing...

I got way behind last week burning up my grinder and going to the show. We'll see what this week brings.

[shorts 182]

try the gel type paint stripper, after you apply it cover it with a garbage bag to keep the solvents from evaporating before they can work.

[condo630 6]

Progress...

Transmission stripped.

In primer.

Everything got sandblasted.

Sandblasted parts.

Bottom part of the dash tower got bent over and cracked, so I MIG welded it back together. Not bad for my first repair.

Redneck paint booth.

Everything in primer.

Bad hub.

Some of the sheet metal needs a little body filler, and it will be sanded before it goes red.

The transmission is red now, I guess I don't have a picture right now.

Slow but sure I guess. :woohoo:

[farmer 1,075]

Hi Chris,

I notice in one of your early pictures of the transmission the top of it is covered in oil. I only mention this because later, in the picture of it primed, I think I see a welded repair to the case?.

Was the leak from another source or did you fix it with the weld?

I can't think how a crack would appear there, unless when it was split in the past somewhen it was dropped. 'Course i could be seeing things.

Your making great progress, keep it up . :D