smitty316 24 #1 Posted June 2, 2011 I found a Charger 10 for $150.00 It starts right up and runs smooth. No smoke at all. My wife said I need it like I need another hole in my head, but... I see it has a valve on top of the transmission that indicates for Drive or Tow. I turned it to Tow and the tractor barely moves. I turned the valve around more than once. Does that matter or is it just the two positions? I guess I need to look for a manual for it. I obviously have a lot to learn. I'd appreciate any help, Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigd 0 #2 Posted June 2, 2011 tow release the hydro so you can push it most wont move in tow turn it back to drive see how that works if it still dont move i'm sure one of the experts will offer advice :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #3 Posted June 2, 2011 Oh... Tow means it can be towed. I thought it was another setting on the transmission for towing a load. I feel dumb....but thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,762 #4 Posted June 2, 2011 DO NOT tow or push the tractor without FIRST opening the tow valve which sits atop the hyd unit. You only need make one full CCW turn of the valve to put it in the TOW or PUSH position. Even at that, you can only move it SLOWLY....not more than a crawl speed. That's because this TOW VALVE only creates a BY-PASS FLOW of the (normally) high pressure ports of the internal guts of the hyd pump and hydrogear. Attached Image Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ChiefRider 0 #5 Posted June 2, 2011 FWIW, my Charger 9 requires that I rotate the valve 1/2 turn CW to the "tow" position, and of course, 1/2 turn back to drive. In the "tow" position, it rolls quite freely. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #6 Posted June 2, 2011 Exactly right, ChiefRider. You only need make one full CCW turn of the valve to put it in the TOW or PUSH position. Turning that style release valve one full turn (either direction - it doesn't matter) puts it back where it was to start with. The roll pin through the valve shaft has to be parallel with the tractor frame rails and turning it 180 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #7 Posted June 2, 2011 You guys are awesome! Thanks. I'm looking forward to cleaning this one up. It runs smooth, but the throttle shaft is real wobbly. I'd like to take care of that first. Is there a bushing in there or something I can do short of getting a new carb? I might ask about paint numbers and decals later. Is this tractor rated for any ground contact attachments like a tiller? Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #8 Posted June 2, 2011 Smitty, Go here for carb info. Gives some great information. If it seems like more than you want to tackle yourself, Brian does a terrific rebuild for what I consider to be pretty reasonable money. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/a1carb.htm Duff :hide: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smitty316 24 #9 Posted June 3, 2011 Thanks Duff, When I read Brian's info. on installing his bushings it makes it sound like the Kohler 241 carb already has the counter bore. I'm probably mistaken and I would know if I took the throttle shaft out. I was just wanting to know what I'm getting my self into first. The thing is it runs fine now, but I know it's sucking air like crazy around that very loose shaft. Smitty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
