C-175 won't start and flywheel won't turn

[whalenkm 0]

I started my C-175 last weekend and it fired right up after sitting a couple weeks. I stopped and started it a couple of times while mounting the mower deck. Then when I got the deck on, I went to start it and got nothing except the solenoid clicking. I have done some troubleshooting but this is my first tractor so I am far from an expert. Where I am at now is that I have found the flywheel does not turn and I can't turn it by hand.

I am thinking this is bad news but wondering if there could be anything electrical that is preventing it from turning. All thoughts and suggestions welcome and appreciated.

[mavfreak 11]

try removing the belt to the deck and see if you can turn crank by hand then.

Now find out if your battery isn't dead or below 12v

and check all your safety switches

[whalenkm 0]

A bit more info.....I disengaged the starter and the starter does spin when not engaged with the flywheel. Should I not be able to manually turn the flywheel regardless of the battery? I changed the points earlier this spring and turned the flywheel by hand easily when doing so. Thanks.

[pfrederi 17,640]

Assuming the PTO is disengaged and the starter motor pinion is not stuck in the flywheel you should be able to turn it by hand. The transmission is in neutral isn't it? :hide:

[mavfreak 11]

if the battery didn't have enough to spin the flywheel, but can have enough to free spin the starter.

if you can't spin the fly wheel by hand then something is stopping it from spinning, such as a bolt hitting it on the backside of the flywheel or a the ACR (auto compression release is plugged or not working) and worst case a blown up engine.

Try pulling the plug and turn over by hand. If you can then I would say its the ACR. if not then start thinking of internals

[rmaynard 15,417]

Did you try turning the flywheel with the starter removed? My thinking tells me that the starter pinion was jammed at the flywheel teeth.

[C-Series14 15]

Pull both plugs and try to turn the flywheel...

[whalenkm 0]

Did you try turning the flywheel with the starter removed? My thinking tells me that the starter pinion was jammed at the flywheel teeth.

I did try turning it with the starter removed but it still would not go. Will try pulling the plugs next.

[whalenkm 0]

So, I finally had a chance to look at this problem. I pulled the plugs and still the flywheel won't budge. I then realized that the oil drain pipe was loose and despite having topped off the oil not long before, the oil was not reading on the dipstick. I am wondering if I seized it up due to lack of oil?? If this is the case, am I screwed? Any tips of tricks to try and unseize in this situation?

Thanks!

[chazm 413]

Drain the oil to see how much is left in the crankacse.

If its tar black & smells burnt then yes... you are most likely screwed

Chaz :woohoo:

[whalenkm 0]

well.....too late for that. I added oil already.....don't ask why.....not really sure. :woohoo:

[whalenkm 0]

OK, so I got around to pulling the Kohler KT17 on my C-175 after no luck with any suggestions getting the flywheel to move. I removed the cylinder heads and barrels and sure enough, the connecting rod on cylinder (on the right facing the flywheel) was seized up. The other rod moved fine. I spent some time with various penetrating oils and lubricants and right now the connecting rod moves almost as well as the other (good one). So, I guess it was not completely seized but very stuck.

So, now....opinions on what to do. Should I put it back together and see if it will work? I am playing with fire here? I know the proper thing to do would be to open the whole thing up and replace the connecting rod (never done anything like this before). I have done all the reading on the KT17 issues breaking rods. The spec number is 24223 so I think that makes this a Series 1 KT17.

Thanks in advance....

[rmaynard 15,417]

I've got no experience on that engine, but an engine is an engine. If the connecting rod was seized, there has to be a reason. Penetrating oil is not a fix. I would pull the cap from the bottom of the rod and see what's going on. Lack of lubrication can cause the connecting rod to fuse aluminum to the crankshaft journal. If that is the case, you've got some rebuilding to do.

[whalenkm 0]

I've got no experience on that engine, but an engine is an engine. If the connecting rod was seized, there has to be a reason. Penetrating oil is not a fix. I would pull the cap from the bottom of the rod and see what's going on. Lack of lubrication can cause the connecting rod to fuse aluminum to the crankshaft journal. If that is the case, you've got some rebuilding to do.

Bear with me but removing the cap means I have to split the crankcase and open it up, correct?

[rmaynard 15,417]

There is no way to inspect a connecting rod without opening the engine. Removing the cap (bottom part of rod) will reveal any damage to the bearing surface and crankshaft journal.

[linen beige 14]

Print yourself off a copy of the service manual from the Kohler website and STUDY it. Like mentioned before, if you have a rod that has siezed there has most likely been a transfer of aluminum to steel and/or a removal/distortion of aluminum from the affected rod. That means that if you do start it up now it will more than likely shatter the rod and damage even more internal parts.

[pfrederi 17,640]

You do not need to split the case you do need to remove the jugs (cylinders) and the bearing plate. I also agree with the above if it seized there is bearing material fused to the crank shaft and it will self destruct when you run it. When it goes it will probably pole a hole or two in the case. I have a couple of KT 17 blocks with various holes if you want to see.

Frankly I would look for another engine. Parts aren't cheap and it was not Kohler's finest hour.

[whalenkm 0]

You do not need to split the case you do need to remove the jugs (cylinders) and the bearing plate. I also agree with the above if it seized there is bearing material fused to the crank shaft and it will self destruct when you run it. When it goes it will probably pole a hole or two in the case. I have a couple of KT 17 blocks with various holes if you want to see.

Frankly I would look for another engine. Parts aren't cheap and it was not Kohler's finest hour.

I am keeping my eyes open for a replacement engine but do not plan to invest a lot of $$ so I am watching for a decent deal on something used and appropriate. Any suggestions on replacements are welcome...

[can whlvr 993]

as you said keep your eyes peeled for another another engine,ive resorted to hondas due to no used kohlers where i live,so i put a honda in one years ago and she still has a honda today,but maybe where you live there are more used engines kicking around

[Stigian 1,234]

You do not need to split the case you do need to remove the jugs (cylinders) and the bearing plate. I also agree with the above if it seized there is bearing material fused to the crank shaft and it will self destruct when you run it. When it goes it will probably pole a hole or two in the case. I have a couple of KT 17 blocks with various holes if you want to see.

Frankly I would look for another engine. Parts aren't cheap and it was not Kohler's finest hour.

Very interesting reading seeing as I now have on of these engines sitting on my bench with a busted rod and a hole through the block..

It seems these Kt17 engine have a habit of busting rods, is it mostly due to a lack of oil or is it a design flaw thingy?

[smoreau 658]

Just a thought, I have a 417A and this happend to me but it was not internal, The magnets inside the flywheel had come loose and jammed up the flywheel and destroyed the stator behind the flywheel, I removed the flywheel and removed the stator and reinstalled the flywheel and it started right up. This could be a possibility , take the front engine cover off and see if the flywheel will move back and forth a little.

[pfrederi 17,640]

You do not need to split the case you do need to remove the jugs (cylinders) and the bearing plate. I also agree with the above if it seized there is bearing material fused to the crank shaft and it will self destruct when you run it. When it goes it will probably pole a hole or two in the case. I have a couple of KT 17 blocks with various holes if you want to see.

Frankly I would look for another engine. Parts aren't cheap and it was not Kohler's finest hour.

Very interesting reading seeing as I now have on of these engines sitting on my bench with a busted rod and a hole through the block..

It seems these Kt17 engine have a habit of busting rods, is it mostly due to a lack of oil or is it a design flaw thingy?

Design flaw thingy...the oiling system was an inadequate design. Series 2 have an improved oiling system and do not have the same problems.

[whalenkm 0]

OK, so I have removed the flywheel but I am stuck. How do I remove the PTO drive from the other end? There are two set screws (you can see one sticking out that I unscrewed). One of them is stuck right now so I am soaking it but I am not convinced this is all that is needed to be able to get the closure plate off.

This is my first time doing something like this so pretend you are describing the process to a 3rd grader!

[tunahead72 2,400]

This is my first time doing something like this so pretend you are describing the process to a 3rd grader!

Man, do I know THAT feeling!

Backing up half a step, did you notice anything unusual when you removed the flywheel (just thinking about Scott/smoreau's comments)?

[whalenkm 0]

Backing up half a step, did you notice anything unusual when you removed the flywheel (just thinking about Scott/smoreau's comments)?

No, I had already removed the heads and it was apparent that one of the connecting rods was seized. Everything looked normal during flywheel removal.