diesel C-195

[welderman85 53]

man that tractor is awsome very nice work

[fireman 1,021]

Nice job on the 3 point. Your welds look great! Just like a roll of coins laid over like there supposed to be. Well done.

[massey 118]

Nice work, I was hoping you'd get back to this project soon.

[Wheel-N-It 2,968]

Kelly this tractor is awesome!!! I wonder if the Toro engineers are keeping an eye on this thread for a future rebirth of the Wheel Horse???

You have me wanting to do the same thing to my 520 roller sitting in the barn behind my house.

[Kelly 1,029]

Well not a big update, for the past 2 days I've been working on my kids tractor getting it running better and putting chains on, new drive belt pulleys ect...... so my stuff didn't get touched till tonight.

I've been dreading the throttle set up, I had a idea in my head, even drew it out on paper for my oldest son, and said I wish I could machine up the pieces, I had a nice throttle lever and cable that had very good tension on it because it has a nylon block the lever rides on, this diesel has a cable setup like a bicycle brake cable with a flexible housing and twisted cable in it, and the throttle at the governor has a return spring like a car, so you need a throttle lever that will hold against the tension of the spring, we took the brake cable off one of his old bikes out back, (he's 22 now and don't ride them) and it was the perfect length housing, but I needed the cable in it to be about 6" longer to go around a roller set up on the governor, I wandered back out to the barn to see what I had, well I found a engine brake cable for a push mower, you know the cable that hooks the lever on the handle you have to hold when starting and mowing, well it was the right size and way to long so that was good, so I cut the ends and removed the cable to put in the bike brake housing, I also needed a way to hook the cable to the lever I had picked out, it had the normal wound housing with the solid wire like all our WH's have, I Took the wound housing off but was left with a little hole where the L shaped bent wire goes on the end of the lever,, I knew I wanted a swivel of some kind, that I could feed the cable through and hold the cable, but I also knew I don't have the stuff here to build anything like that, so back to the barn and just started looking at stuff trying to see a way to make my idea work, just as I was getting ready to head back to the house I seen a chain saw or weed eater carb in a box and it had the part I needed on it, so with parts in hand I fabbed them all together in to one working cable set up, needless to say at this point I'm pretty happy with a job I didn't want to do.

Here is the lever I had, you can see where I opened and flattened the part where it held the orig. cable, I drilled a hole so the feral I cut off the orig. diesel throttle bracket would fit in to it.

This is the little cable clamp swivel I robbed off the 2 stroke carb. I had to grind the lever some so the pin fit through it and I could get the E clip on the back side.

Feral welded to the lever bracket, and test fitting the cable, open throttle position.

Closed throttle position

I have it mocked up in a temp dash panel, that is going to be one of the next items on the list to build is a new dash, to hold a oil press, amp meter, and hour meter, I don't have a choke so only one lever, and a few switches, I'm putting a heaver duty key switch in to run everything, fuel pump lights ect..... this is a quick set up with some gauges I had, the mech. oil pressure gauge is hooked up, and the throttle is hooked up, just seeing how it looks, this is the orig. metal backer for the dash.

[SousaKerry 501]

Well at least the Wheel Horse engineers left you plenty of room on the dash plate for more gauges... They musta been thinking ahead when they designed the 1X5 series. Too bad it didn't last longer.

Oh and Kelly you are on my Junk Yard Wars Fantasy Team!!!

[Kelly 1,029]

I'd love to do a junkyard wars thing!!!!! I've been playing in junkyards my whole life, my Grandpa had one when I was a kid and grew up around it till he passed about 12 years ago, talk about a COOL place, cars back in to the 30's there, and barns full of neat crap, not to mention all the old semi trailers and school bus's out back full, 40 acres of cars and stuff, that was my playground as a kid, no good old junk yards like that anymore, at least they are far and few between.

[Kelly 1,029]

Another no major stuff done, but a few things did happen, lots of head scratching and thinking, and I'm about out of gas for the welder so I din't get to finish weld a few things but they are tacked up and ready.

Mail came with some bolts I've been waiting for, I ordered some bolts to put studs in the rear hubs, but they came in wrong, so they exchanged them, but took forever for them to send the correct ones, but got them today.

I took a extra steering control valve I had apart to see if I could do something about the top bushing in it, it was a bit sloppy turns out it is plastic, I was looking at it and thought about a wheel bearing, well guess what it is a pretty good fit, I need to pick up a sealed bearing because I'll never be able to grease this when it is together.

Then I had the top off the control valve, I was thinking of a better way to extend the shaft, I had a piece of DOM tubing to use a coupler, but it still had a bit of wiggle to the union, and I wanted it tighter, so I pulled the shaft out of the valve to see if I could think of something, well I took a snow blower auger shaft and cut it off, to take to my neighbor and have him machine the end of the shaft to fit in the steering valve so I will not need a coupler the shaft will extend all the way up to where the steering wheel fits, and be supported by the stock dash bushing also, these black hood tractors have a very sturdy dash in them.

Old shaft and one that was a snowblower shaft, soon to be a steering shaft.

This is the joint I wanted to get rid of.

With that kinda out of the way I turned to mounting the aircleaner, a few post back I showed kinda where I wanted to mount it, well it is about there, I dug through the steel pile and found a few bits and pieces mostly little stuff I had picked up or left overs, I bet I scratched my head and smoked a dozen cigs trying to figure out a good and sturdy mount, but still be easy to get to the filter, in the end this is what I came up with, well this was the first try, and I like it, so this what it is going to end up, as I said I'm about out of gas for the welder, so it's only tack welded and being New Years eve, I added a little Southern comfort to my coke so no more power tools tonight, I still need to drill the mounting holes to mount it to the frame, but need to wait till I get my hoses ordered to final fit, and may need to move it a tiny bit.

Garage cat giving his approval

Clears the hood nice.

I plan to duct the aircleaner with tubing, I was at the junk yard a few days ago looking for tid bits to use on the project, and I told Ryan to keep his eye out for a few things, we were about to leave when he said Dad will this work?? it was a stainless steel hand rail for a swimming pool, well I wipped out a tape and yup it was the right size, I loaded it in the truck and the guys that work there told me Merry Chrstmas take it home, so off we went, here it is being cut up to be used for a intake tube, it will look nice and is very thin wall so it is light.

Here I'm mocking up the tubing I cut up old radiator hoses I had but the bends are not right, I need to order a few rubber/silicone elbows, but you can see the idea I'm going for.

It will get slow from here out I'm back to work wed. I'm pretty happy with what I got done this past week or so, from not even having the engine mounted to a test drive and a bunch of little things done.

[Cvans 1,009]

Having done a number of diesel conversions myself I've enjoyed reading this and have to say I think your doing a great job. Your photos are excellent. I've

never quite got the hang of taking good pictures. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.

[Kelly 1,029]

Kinda winding down from vacation, have to go back to work tomorrow, so I cleaned the shop, got stuff around to figure shipping on items I have sold, took pics of other stuff people have asked about, I've been slacking on selling parts this past week, and getting items ready

after doing the stuff I needed to get done, I figured a easy project was to install the rear wheel studs, mounting these monster tires are no fun trying to line up the hole and put a bolt in, almost a 2 person job.

First I cleaned the threads good so the bolts and loctite would have a good bite.

Then I run the bolts up till they are about 1/2" left sticking out, and put a few drops of blue loctite on the threads, I like to let it set 5 min. or so, I did all the bolts at one time, then let them set.

Then I run them in with a impact, don't let the 3/8" drive and cordless fool you it is a brute, I can't get them tighter by hand.

one side all done.

No washers the heads are nice and tight against the hub.

my new lug nuts

I always use a anti seize of some kind on wheel bolts and others I don't want to rust up, or items that get removed and put on multiple times so you don't mess the threads up, by galling them.

The wheels are much easier to put on now, another tip not a huge deal on GTs with the slow speeds they run, but a good rule to follow, the stud should stick past the end of the lug nut buy how thick the bolt is, in this case the stud is 9/16" so it should stick out past the nut by that much, and these do, this rule applies to all bolts really but rarely is followed.

Thanks for reading my post feel free to comment good or bad, or give me a idea you might have, I have a open mind, my ideas are not always the best, I like to hear feedback, it kind of helps keep me going.

[Martin 2,131]

never realized the studs on the 195 were so much bigger than the smaller tractors....

im guessing some of the other 'bigger' tractors such as the d series use them also....

anti sieze is my best friend too, kelly. use it on many different fasteners to save the threads.......

[Iggy68 28]

Sure is looking good! I bet it will be a hard worker for you.

[rexman72 210]

very nice work

[Kelly 1,029]

I got my steering shaft back tonight, he is a great guy always gets my little stuff done fast, I bet it was only there 2 hours, and he was doing other stuff.

This will make things much cleaner and with the bearing in the top of the housing much tighter, I'm really glad I went this way.

Almost forgot the pic of the shaft before I assembled it, I had the snap ring and washer on it greased up ready to go in.

Here it is assembled ready to go in the tractor, I need to swap it for the unit in there now.

It will be nice having the shaft come all the way up for the steering wheel to fit on, and not having to mess with the union I had at this point, you can see it will pass through the factory dash bushing also, when the new set up is installed.

[73-18 automatic 8]

Kinda winding down from vacation, have to go back to work tomorrow, so I cleaned the shop, got stuff around to figure shipping on items I have sold, took pics of other stuff people have asked about, I've been slacking on selling parts this past week, and getting items ready

after doing the stuff I needed to get done, I figured a easy project was to install the rear wheel studs, mounting these monster tires are no fun trying to line up the hole and put a bolt in, almost a 2 person job.

First I cleaned the threads good so the bolts and loctite would have a good bite.

Then I run the bolts up till they are about 1/2" left sticking out, and put a few drops of blue loctite on the threads, I like to let it set 5 min. or so, I did all the bolts at one time, then let them set.

Then I run them in with a impact, don't let the 3/8" drive and cordless fool you it is a brute, I can't get them tighter by hand.

one side all done.

No washers the heads are nice and tight against the hub.

my new lug nuts

I always use a anti seize of some kind on wheel bolts and others I don't want to rust up, or items that get removed and put on multiple times so you don't mess the threads up, by galling them.

The wheels are much easier to put on now, another tip not a huge deal on GTs with the slow speeds they run, but a good rule to follow, the stud should stick past the end of the lug nut buy how thick the bolt is, in this case the stud is 9/16" so it should stick out past the nut by that much, and these do, this rule applies to all bolts really but rarely is followed.

Thanks for reading my post feel free to comment good or bad, or give me a idea you might have, I have a open mind, my ideas are not always the best, I like to hear feedback, it kind of helps keep me going.

Are those the same size as the D

[Kelly 1,029]

Yes the hubs are the same as the D, so yes the same size bolts/studs.

[73-18 automatic 8]

Cool thanks

[Trouty56 565]

I do have a question about the tip on bolt length protruding past the nut. My truck has lug bolts and nuts that don't follow this rule. So I searched and I only found that at least a thread should be showing and excessive protrusion could cause injury. This was from a naval ship building rulebook. ??????

Sent from my phone........

[illinilefttackle 399]

I think Kelly is right on in his thinking- I remember some of the old timers I worked with @ Avanti saying the bolt should stick out 1 1/2 times the Diameter of the bolt from the work surface (in this case the surface of the wheel)- lug Nuts are Fatter too, so they might take up more of that 1 1/2 times-So the lug nuts might be the game changer here- Al

[SousaKerry 501]

I think the more books you look in the more "standards" you will find, ASME, MIL SPEC, ISO, SAE... Everyone seems to have their own specification for this kinda stuff.

Kelly growin up there was an old time junkyard about 2 mi from the farm, dad had a standing deal with old man Zoeller, Dad would bring him a load of scrap every winter and dad could take anything he could carry(within reason) all summer. We built a ton of custom machinery from this deal, old man Zoeller died about 15-20 years ago and the junkyard is long gone now just a grass field owned by the city.

[Stormin 9,981]

With regards to the stud thread sticking out so far, I think it would be an idea to slip a rubber tube over the thread to protect it.

[Kelly 1,029]

Well Bob, I did some thinking, I learned that 30 some odd years ago, not 100% sure where I learned it?, so I googled it, and I came up with a few different answers, but the most common was to have at least 2 or 3 threads minimum sticking out past the nut, because the first few threads on most bolts are chamfered or rolled to make starting easier, and they will not engauge the nut properly, then I got to thinking at work today about this and when I was drag racing years ago, NHRA rules stated the wheel stud must extend the bolt diam. past the face of the lug nut, and I'm also leaning to my Dad telling me this rule, he was a mech. in the Army in the 60's and 70's At any rate it's a habbit of mine, and I stick pretty close to it, when I can.

Stormin, I don't think anything can hit these studs the wheels are so deep.

[Martin 2,131]

ive heard that rule before too on the wheel studs (NHRA ruling)...

most common like you said though is 2-3 threads past the nut for most fastening situations though.......

i did a bunch of steel fabrication when i worked in the building industry years ago and it was 3 threads minimum.

i think the wheel stud ruling looks ok on the wheel studs, but i try to keep at 2-3 threads for most normal fasteners though, the wheel stud ruling length just doesnt look 'tidy enough' for me..........

Edited January 2, 2013 by Martin

[WH Raider10 17]

Very cool project kelly! You should put a turbo on that diesel engine!

P-J

[Kelly 1,029]

Don't think I havn't looked at mini turbos!!!! it would be a very COOL factor, but a waste of money because I'm sure I already have more power than I need, a 13hp single would have done the job, but I wanted a twin.