Ignition Switch

[Electro12WH 50]

What is the difference in the 3 position 3 terminal and the 3 pos. 5-6 terminal switches? What are the extra terminals for? Can the extra wires be doubled up on a 3 terminal switch?

Also, is there a source for the WH ignition switch plugs?

[tbbahner 27]

Be careful with ignitions switches, they are not all the same. It depends on what engine/tractor you're working on, whether its a mag, or battery ign, etc.

Watch the pin designations on the back, most are labled with a letter that goes to their purpose. So, you might be able to make it work but I doubt it.

Most 5 pin have an I or M -ignition circuit, B - battery, A or L - accessory, S - starter, R - rectifier. Alway refer to a correct wiring diagram.

Don't know on the plug

Tom B

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

What are the extra terminals for?

Can the extra wires be doubled up on a 3 terminal switch?

Also, is there a source for the WH ignition switch plugs?

Technically, on the correct switch for a given application, there are no "extra terminals"

Best to let us know what engine / starter / ignition configuration you have and we can work out a solution with no sparks, smoke or financial agony.

NAPA does sell 5 terminal ignition switch pigtails that work well. The wiring coloring may not correspond to your current wiring color scheme, but they will work perfectly fine if wired according to function of the wire and not the color of the wire.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

and for the love of money ....

always remember

[rmaynard 15,735]

Technically, on the correct switch for a given application, there are no "extra terminals".

Not true. On my B-100's (with correct switches) there is an extra terminal that is not used. Since there are no accessories on a standard B-100, no wires are connected to the "A" terminal.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Not true. On my B-100's (with correct switches) there is an extra terminal that is not used. Since there are no accessories on a standard B-100, no wires are connected to the "A" terminal.

That makes it "superfluous" to your application

not "extra" in his application

[rmaynard 15,735]

Not true. On my B-100's (with correct switches) there is an extra terminal that is not used. Since there are no accessories on a standard B-100, no wires are connected to the "A" terminal.

That makes it "superfluous" to your application not "extra" in his application

It's all just semantics. Superfluous means extra. Don't try to confuse the issue.

Since we don't know what his application is, we can only speak in generalities.

The bottom lines is that there are some terminals on some ignition switches that are not used. Call them superfluous or extra, they are still there and not being used.

[Electro12WH 50]

I have a 3 position, 5 terminal switch on a '74 B 80. The plug is fried for sure. Is it possible to check an ign. switch for continuity w/ a gauge?

[rmaynard 15,735]

I have a 3 position, 5 terminal switch on a '74 B 80. The plug is fried for sure. Is it possible to check an ign. switch for continuity w/ a gauge?

Yes it is. If you have a multi-meter, or even a small battery powered test light, you can check continuity.

Here is your switch, as pictured in the B-80 wiring diagram:

To test it, remove all wires. Clean the terminals and the back of the switch. The back will be marked with letters beside each terminal blade.

With the ignition switch in the OFF position, you should have no continuity between any of the terminals.

With the switch in the ON position, you should have continuity between B & A, B & I, and B & R. You should also have continuity between A & I, A & R, and R & I.

With the switch in the START position (you have to have 3 hands to do this), you should have continuity between B & S. You should still maintain continuity between B & I and B & R, but lose continuity between B & A until the switch returns to the RUN position.

Hope you understand what I have attempted to describe.

[Electro12WH 50]

Yes, sir! Thanks!

[Anglo Traction 761]

Very well explained Bob.

Regards.

[Electro12WH 50]

NAPA does sell 5 terminal ignition switch pigtails that work well. The wiring coloring may not correspond to your current wiring color scheme, but they will work perfectly fine if wired according to function of the wire and not the color of the wire.

I tried NAPA today for that plug. They couldn't source it and called the warehouse who said No. Do you have a part number?

[Anglo Traction 761]

I'm not sure if this one is correct, but worth checking out.

http://www.omega-usa.com/productBeta.asp?P...ctCode=33-12651

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Universal replacement ignition switch "pigtail" ~ Stens P/N 430-223 available at any small engine shop / OPE dealer who is a Stens dealer - or at many online retailers.

LINK

[rmaynard 15,735]

Also available from Brian "KB9LOR". He has a vendor site:

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=25172

He has the 5-Pin connector, PN 33350

Slide-on terminals, PN 33351

or a pig-tail, PN 6662

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Electro,

this should give you a good start on the rewire if your system is coil based.

And If you do not have lights on the B series tractor,

just ignore the superfluous A terminal "flying lead" (a little lingo I picked up across the pond in Sudbury) and insulate any bare wiring that might be present of the replacement 5 pin wiring harness.

The fried connector is a function of the heat produced by current flow thru a resistance.

Charging current thru old corroded terminals is the culprit here.

A five pin connector is not absolutely necessary as insulated individual spade terminal can be used and the terminals on the ignition switch may only need to be cleaned. These two steps may get you going today and you can search out replacement parts at your leisure.

And my apologies to all who I may have confused with my antisemantical behavior. I just finished masticating my spotted **** and was very tired.

[rmaynard 15,735]

In the above diagram, because of the way the ammeter is pictured with the (-) on the left and the (+) on the right, the wire from the battery appears to be going to the (-) side of the ammeter, and the "B" terminal of the switch going to the (+) side of the ammeter.

Be sure to refer to the back of the ammeter for (+) and (-) marks. The (+) wire from the battery/soleniod goes to the (+) post of the ammeter, and the ignition switch "B" terminal connects to the (-) post of the ammeter.

[Electro12WH 50]

Boy! You guys are good! You should get together and present a complete series of seminars. Start with a complete engine rebuild and go from there.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

You should get together and present a complete series of seminars.

Indeed.

Bob has been one of the better students attending my SOI University courses. After a year or so of following me around like a puppy, he should now be able to overtake the teacher and give the seminars by himself. This will free me up to just make cameo visits at Red Square and leave the electrical section in his capable hands. This will allow me more time for my research and development pursuits in the field of Advanced and Serious Tractor Business.

[Electro12WH 50]

I got a plug from NAPA. It cross referenced to 7-01910 Key Switch Harness Universal

[MikesRJ 552]

... my research and development pursuits in the field of Advanced and Serious Tractor Business.

Unrestricted by reality, most of those unfinished fantasy tractors of his need some serious fairyland envisioning so that they one day might become full-fledged figments of his vagarious imagination.

P.S. Are we going to see you at the Big Show this year? :hide:

[ol~horses 4]

thanks for the diagrams...But...one of them says "switch ignition 11216 replaced by 103990" The faded # on my origional sw. has what could be a 0, can't really be sure.

I think that is the number on a new switch, that I've tried, but it does not match up operation wise....isn't 103990 a common # used in these old B80 units.

I think I may be getting mixed up via testing the old (mine) and the new SW side by side (just keep goin' "round and 'round

ol~horses

[pfrederi 18,004]

31 minutes ago, ol~horses said:

thanks for the diagrams...But...one of them says "switch ignition 11216 replaced by 103990" The faded # on my origional sw. has what could be a 0, can't really be sure.

I think that is the number on a new switch, that I've tried, but it does not match up operation wise....isn't 103990 a common # used in these old B80 units.

I think I may be getting mixed up via testing the old (mine) and the new SW side by side (just keep goin' "round and 'round

ol~horses

This post is 7 years old  The sell cheap swtiches at Lowe's HD.  Just make sure you get one with an "I" terminal (not an "m")