mattc 0 #1 Posted April 26, 2011 I have a 92 520H. Corrosion has taken over the wiring and it really needs to be replaced. I was wondering if there was a place i could buy all the wiring harnesses and gauges as a package deal or at least everything i need. Also, I have a 300 cranking amp battery that wont even turn the engine over. As soon as I hook up the jumper cables it jumps off after 5-6 seconds of turning over. I tested the load on the battery and it says its good. Could this be a wiring issue as well?? Any help is appreciated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #2 Posted April 26, 2011 Matt, the wiring itself is probably ok - the terminals are most likely the corroded culprits. Buying new terminals and clipping off the old ones, crimping on new ones may save you a bunch of money on a new harness. Harnesses may still be available thru Toro or online. The starting issue again is most likely corrosion on the starter solenoid, starter solenoid wiring or battery terminals or wiring. 520's showing wiring corrosion are generally immediate candidates for replacement of the 9 pin Molex connector going to the engine harness. Search in the vendor section of this site for suppliers of the 9 pin connector parts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattc 0 #3 Posted April 26, 2011 I probably broke all codes but my wife said to mow the yard!! I took the 9 pin connector out and replaced it using the original with regular but connectors. I also had to fix a few issues where someone tried to solder a different wire to the starter and disconnect the original. I used a quick connect fitting for that. I would like to clean up everything wire wise. Also, on the gauges, is the probability that the gauges are bad or perhaps another wiring issue. The only one that works is the hp/vacuum gauge. thanks for the quick reply. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SAM58 30 #4 Posted April 26, 2011 Check you fuses, the 15 amp fuse on my 1992 520H was blown, it also was due to the connectors as SOL said. I was able to save the connector by cleaning the connector and using electical grease on it... so far it works great. Does the Lights in the gauges work? they blow easy, also the power for the gauges and the lights in the gauges comes though the 15 amp fuse. My 30 amp fuse had a bad connection due to being coroded as well. It would start sometimes and sometimes it would just click like the silnoid was bad, it was a bad connection on the 30 amp fuse in the fuse box. I would say that you gauges are fine, just a bad connection somewhere.... :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #5 Posted April 27, 2011 I probably broke all codes but my wife said to mow the yard!! I took the 9 pin connector out and replaced it using the original with regular but connectors. Nothing wrong with properly crimped and weatherproofed butt connectors - they are one solution to the 9 pin issue. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cheesegrader 433 #6 Posted May 1, 2011 I just finished a similar problem on my newly purchased '91 520H The 9-year-old battery wouldn't take a full charge. Replaced with GT360 from Fleet Farm for $20. 360 CCA, now it starts fine. Next problem was low voltage, only registering 11 V while running. I recalled an old post, and went straight to the 30A fuse. Replaced the fuse, and removed grass and debris from the fuse block. Problem solved, starts great, and reads 14 volts while running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mattc 0 #7 Posted May 2, 2011 The connections were properly crimped and i taped them with insulated electrical mastic to, one, keep junk out, but also to keep heat and other stuff away from the wires. I am going to change out the battery too. The fuse looks fine, i am guessing somebody cut a wire some where under the hood and i just gotta search it out!! :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
