Irv 115 #1 Posted April 17, 2011 Well I finally got to pull the 8 speed apart from the C-100 I picked up in the fall. This is the one that I previously posted the axles came out of. The axles were very worn where the clip goes on to hold them in so I had managed to get real nice ones along with most of the rest of the insides of a tranny from e--- a while back, for a good price. First thing that happened when I turned the tranny on it's side is the needles from the axle bearing (originally #1526 but now I'm pretty sure is 9416) fell out. Next I noticed that one of the 5 bolts holding the tranny case together was reversed from the rest, indicating someone was in here before. As soon as I opened it up, I saw that the long gear next to the differential (output?) had a bunch of hunks of it. Then when I picked up the differential I saw why! The bearing under it (#1533) was gone. The ring was still there-half in the case and half on the differential but no balls and they were not anywhere to be seen. I didn't notice them when I drained the tranny so I can only think that whoever was previously in there got them out. Everything else looks ok and the clips for the axles were in the differential and ok. I did get that gear (the chipped one) along with the new axles so that's a plus. Meanwhile, I had picked up a good 8-speed from a raider that I stuck in the C-100 and it fits and works fine except that the brake band is on clockwise rather than counter-clockwise like the original so that the brake rod doesn't hook up. It looks like I may be able to take the original one and do some bending to make it work unless someone has a better idea. Also, does anyone know of a less expensive source for the bearings. From what I have been able to find, the 1533 is around $70 and the 9416 is $17. Sorry, I would have taken pics but my camera sucks for close-ups. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #2 Posted April 17, 2011 Irv...that 1533 bearing is only available through Toro. You can get the rest of the bearings and seals from Motion Industries or another bearing house. As far as your brake shaft coming out the other hole...If you have 2 trans...one with the brake shaft coming out the opposite hole and one using the other hole. I believe you can take the 11T-44T gears and switch them (so you have the longer shaft as your brake shaft. do the same thing and switch the pinion shafts (so you have the shorter one in place). Now swap the cap bearing with the through bearing and seal. I have not tried this yet...but I believe it will work. The gears are the same...the case halves are the same...the bearings and seals are the same (in a 6 and 8 speed trans). If this does not make much sense, watch this video...where I explain it a little better. This way you will not have to mess with all of your brake linkage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Irv 115 #3 Posted April 17, 2011 Thanks Steve. Nice video! It isn't that the brake shaft comes out the other hole, it's just that the brake band is mounted the opposite direction as the original tranny (clockwise vs. counterclockwise) so that the brake rod would have to go downward instead of towards the rear of the tractor. It will not fit that way and would not pull correctly because it's setup to pull back to front. I'm going to see if I can fit the band from the original tranny on, but I may have to bend the part that mounts to the tractor to do so. A question I have-what is the best way to get the new bearings in? Do I put the axle (needle) bearing in after the trans. is together. Can I tap them in with a block of wood and a hammer? thanks much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #4 Posted April 17, 2011 Irv...tap the bearings and seals in before rebuilding. You do not need a piece of wood, just use a ball peen hammer...once the bearing is flush...use a punch to seat it the rest of the way. Tap a little as you work around the bearing. As far as the brake drum and shaft...it is a theory that I have. It may be that there are 2 break bands for the 2 different transmissions, and the other one will bolt right on for you. Take some pictures if you can...I do not have the brake bands to check out ...yet. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,863 #5 Posted April 17, 2011 Here is some pictures of what I am trying to say. These transmissions are a 5025 (3speed uni-drive) and a 5085 (4 speed uni-drive). Check out the different gear shafts and the holes they come out of. the first one is the 3 sp uni-drive... and this is the 4 sp uni-drive... I believe the same thing happens with the 6 speeds and the 8 speeds...same trans...different brake shaft holes. And I don't know...reverse brake bands. My thinking is that you can take a 3 speed uni-drive and make it a 4 speed uni-drive by swapping the 11T-44T gears, the shaft that goes through the cluster gear, and it looks like the brake band shaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Irv 115 #6 Posted April 17, 2011 I see what your saying Steve, I just looked at the trannys and can see that the brake shaft on the one from the raider has that shaft out of the rear hole and the original out of the foward hole. My plan is to rebuild the original and put it back in because I believe the raider tranny is a 10 pinion (the weakest of trannys) so for now I think I'll just live with no brake or see if I can fit something. Thanks again for all your help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
