C-120 Automatic restoration

[Stigian 1,234]

Thanks for posting the picture up Andy, she sure has come a long way from when you first bought her.. Keep up the great work :thumbs:

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Thanks for the encouragement Ian - a few more pics of recent progress:

I've had to spend much more time than expected welding up cracks in panels. Welding isn't exactly my finest skill but I get by. I've got a MIG but I really prefer my trusty old stick welder to get the penetration required.

I've been pleased with the results and after grinding back its difficult to see where the crack was - hence the felt pen line above. I'm not keen on using filler unless I have to so a second run with the stick is sometimes needed.

I'd been avoiding the idler as I kind of had it in mind that it would need replacing but the bearing turned out to be perfect despite its age so it got cleaned up, repainted and put back on.

The hood is the only panel that hasn't needed any welding but it was in pretty poor shape (litterally). Apart from being dished in where someone must have stood on it to reach a high shelf or something it also looked as though a hooved animal had tap danced on it from time to time, either that or the tractor was beaten with a stick when it wouldn't start.

I don't have any panel beating tools or skills to use them for that matter but I've managed to significantly reduce the dents to an acceptable degree and treated the rust pitting - it always looks worse once the treatment goes black.

As I said, I'm not keen on filler but I had to use some on two of the worst remaining depressions and the hood (above) has been given its first coat of hi-build primer. It has since been flatted over and given a second good coat which I'm hoping will even out any remaining imperfections when I cut it back tomorrow.

I'm looking for a couple of parts and some information to complete the project.

Does anyone in the UK have a correct top cowl for the Kohler K301S that they would part with for a few quid? It was missing so for the moment I've made a simple one up that does the job but it would be nice to replace it with the real thing at some point.

I'm also looking for the rod that the hood is fixed to the frame with and hinges open on. Mine had a couple of odd clevis pins to serve the purpose which I don't think is correct.

The final thing is that I could do with some photo detail of the correct exhaust system, how it is supported etc for the tractor. I want to build something very similar as my first option before having a go at a stack as an alternative.

[wheeledhorseman 574]

You said so here are a couple more. I've put some of panels back now. When I took them off nothing seemed to line up properly and quite a few bolts had been left out by a previous owner. It was reassuring to find that having straightened and repaired them that the parts all went together again perfectly. I guess I must be doing something right.

Re my need for the rod which the hood hinges on, I worked out today there should be two, theres a thinner one as well (both are missing) though I'm not sure what the second rod is for.

[Anglo Traction 761]

Does anyone in the UK have a correct top cowl for the Kohler K301S that they would part with for a few quid? It was missing so for the moment I've made a simple one up that does the job but it would be nice to replace it with the real thing at some point.

I'm also looking for the rod that the hood is fixed to the frame with and hinges open on. The final thing is that I could do with some photo detail of the correct exhaust system, how it is supported etc for the tractor. I want to build something very similar as my first option before having a go at a stack as an alternative.

Hi Andy, Excellent work and progress . I'm playing with bent Hood panel as well at the moment on the 74 C-120.

As for the bits you are missing, I will have a spare K301s Head Shroud when I pick up my new (to me) Engine on Monday. I'll have to check it's condition.

As for the Hood Pivot/Stop Pins, I'm making New ones for mine. I still have a small stock length of 3/8" mild Steel for the Hood Hinge Pin and 1/4" dia for the other smaller Hood Stop pin. I'll see if I have enough for 2 sets.

I'll also sort a few Pics of the Standard Nelson Muffler set up. Will send you a PM Asap.

Regards

[Anglo Traction 761]

Here's the photos of the Muffler set up to keep you going while I sort the other bits out....Exhaust is in two pieces, the Elbow (female end) that fits over the Nipple in the Block and clamped. The other (longer) end of the elbow (male) fits into the Muffler and clamped.

The Muffler cylinder is 3"dia and it's 7" between top/bottom seams. Ex Pipe 1" dia x 10" external length ( this protrudes about 2" into the Muffler) . As far as I can see, there is one Baffle/Spark Arrestor welded inside the Top Inlet. It's a cylindrical, perforated tube with a rounded end. Perforation Holes are about 3/16" dia.

There are no other Fixing points for it on a K301s as the engine is solid Bolt-to-Frame. The later K301as with the rubber mount Engine Cradle had a Fixing Bracket on the Muffler to prevent vibration damage. Hope this helps.

Regards.

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Thanks for the photos which are really helpful in that they show me the angles involved and exactly what the original setup was like. I'm not intending to duplicate it exactly, just something close that's a lot better than the time expired system I've got.

You also said

As for the Hood Pivot/Stop Pins, I'm making New ones for mine. I still have a small stock length of 3/8" mild Steel for the Hood Hinge Pin and 1/4" dia for the other smaller Hood Stop pin. I'll see if I have enough for 2 sets.

You have a wonderful knack of stating what should have been obvious to me in the first place. The trouble is that my projects have mainly been military vehicles and the aim is always to hunt down any authentic parts needed. Making things tends to be a last resort. Anyway, the pins remained the same on the later 200 series tractors so I had originals to work from today as a pattern. I don't have much steel in imperial lying around these days but found what I needed though the 1/4" had to be in silver steel.

The retainers for the 1/4" pin should, I know, be the use once push on retaining washers but I don't have a stock of these, so C clips were used on this one as well which is probably better anyway as I can remove the pin easily whenever needed.

Looking at the second photo I must sort out the pull pin on the hitch. I've left bits like this that should really be zinc plated while deciding what to do with them. Tried a couple of coats of zinc rich weld through primer spray #2 on the hood catch today. It seems quite good in that it dries to a dull even silver colour which, being zinc, should dull down further as it weathers. I'll probably use the same on the pins I've just made.

Hope you haven't cut up your stock for me yet but I do have another length of the 1/4" rod if you are short.

[Anglo Traction 761]

You have a wonderful knack of stating what should have been obvious to me in the first place. The trouble is that my projects have mainly been military vehicles and the aim is always to hunt down any authentic parts needed. Making things tends to be a last resort. Anyway, the pins remained the same on the later 200 series tractors so I had originals to work from today as a pattern. I don't have much steel in imperial lying around these days but found what I needed though the 1/4" had to be in silver steel.

The retainers for the 1/4" pin should, I know, be the use once push on retaining washers but I don't have a stock of these, so C clips were used on this one as well which is probably better anyway as I can remove the pin easily whenever needed.

Ok Andy, I see you've sorted your Rods/Pins. I agree with your principles of keeping things authentic (in most cases). My original Rods/pins are different to yours, they finish flush with the outer side faces of the front Hitch (there is a reason). The Pivot Rod has 'C' clips on the inside of the Hood Hinges.

The Stop Pin (same as my 72 Raider) is retained by Split Cotters, also inside. So the design was changed between 74-75.

The problem is, they are so worn (on 74 C-120), it's not worth refurbishing them as it is not a restoration. I'll put bushes in the worn Hood Hinges and they'll run on a new 'Fabbed' Rod making them more wear resistant.

So I'm assuming your now only in need an Engine Head Shroud.

Regards

[wheeledhorseman 574]

:thumbs: Richard for your patient help in sorting out various matters for me. Being new to the Wheel Horse and 'restoring' the C-120 for both pleasure and for use, it can be difficult to find the right balance between authenticity and practicality. I'm certainly not going for concourse as it will be a tractor to use rather than a show exhibit but having said that I've taken a bit more care over things than I would probably otherwise have done, inspired by what I've seen on this site. So, my project is not a 'restoration' in the world of Wheel Horse parlance as it's already gained a voltmeter, hourmeter and I've retained the ball hitch as useful practical features but I'm hoping that it will , none the less, look like a pretty good working example for its age when finished.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to try out actually fitting the hood with the new pins, as I'd painted it first thing in the day so it will be a while before the paint is hard enough to put the hinges back on an actually try it in place. The hinges were painted some time ago and I did check that the new pin is a good fit with no play, which it is. It will be intersting to see if I have to alter the pins as you say to end flush with the frame or not and I'll keep you posted. At least shortening them will be easier than having to make them from scratch again and it's all part of the learning process I find enjoyable. Yes, I am certainly looking for a K301S head shroud, the one I made performs its function well so there's no urgency, but of course it just really doesn't look quite right .

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Had a careful look at the pins again today, the hood should lift and close ok on the pins I made but....... is the reason for making them end flush with the outside of the frame the fact that some types of front attatchments bolt on to the frame using the first two holes on each side? At present it wouldn't be possible anyway as I've got an exhaust support bracket using one of the holes but if this is the case then I'd better shorten them. Also worked out that the rear pin will only come into use when the hitch on the front has nothing in it otherwise the rubber pieces on each hinge act as the stop.

[Anglo Traction 761]

Hi Andy, Yep!, your correct , they are flush with the Hitch originally to allow some Attachments to bolt on the Frame sides. I checked out the '75' User Manual for your Tractor and on page 12, it shows the Rods flush. Don't worry about them. Like you say, the Muffler bracket is there, and you can always sort it later if required.

P.S also , the 1/4" rod stops the Hood front hitting the floor when Hinged open.

Regards.

[wheeledhorseman 574]

If a job's worth doing ........ so the pins are now flush with the frame but would they have been just bright zinc plated or painted red?

Slowly, very slowly, the parts are all going back on. A parcel has arrived from the U.S. so the tractor now has front hub caps, a rear light and a lens for the headlamps (the original was broken allowing grass clippings to build up inside which ultimately resulted in a brief fire around one of the lamps).

The stickers on the back of the seat are its dealership history removed from the hood from which it would appear that it has always worked in Hampshire. Eagle-eyed observers will also doubtless pick up the tear in the seat but hey, it's comfortable, genuine, and isn't falling to bits and tied on with string (see early photos). The engine head shroud is home made - effective but will be replaced when one becomes available, oh, and yes, the hood really is sun bathing (to harden off the enamel).

The hood came out quite well in the end and also the headlamp reflectors. I think they originally relied on the brightish finish of the MAZAC diecasting metal which naturally dulls back to a matt grey over the years as it oxidises. I used some 'chrome' spray paint which does say in the small print not to expect the same finish as on the lid but to be fair it is much better than standard silver paint. I'm also thinking of replacing the original clips that secure the wire to the headlamps to the cheek of the hood with self adhesive clips that will not be externally visible and won't rust or damage the paint as the original type tend to.

[jasoncracer 0]

VERY nice im restoring a c120 right now only diffrence is i am puttin all brand new grade 8 nuts / bolts!

[shootinok 15]

:wh:

:thumbs:

[meadowfield 2,570]

looking fab Andy ! looking forward to seeing it stickered up

btw I used the little 1" sq adhesive strips for all my wire runs and zip ties. They arent obvious unless you look and can't cause it to rust!

mark

[Stigian 1,234]

Great work as ever Andy

Are you still in need of the engine shroud?

I have a spare one that came from my Raider 10's original engine (no idea of the model number), it's even painted in smoothrite red so might match :wh:

[Anglo Traction 761]

Looking really smart Andy, excellent work

If a job's worth doing ........ so the pins are now flush with the frame but would they have been just bright zinc plated or painted red?

The hood came out quite well in the end and also the headlamp reflectors. I think they originally relied on the brightish finish of the MAZAC diecasting metal which naturally dulls back to a matt grey over the years as it oxidises.

I missed this question when I last read your Thread. They were painted Red from what traces were left on my 2 Tractors.

Yes, The Headlamp units appear to have been unpainted from about '73' onwards.

my 72 Raider's Reflectors (or buckets in U.S.) were painted white inside.

Did same as you n sprayed silver initially.

Sounds like Ian's (Stigian) is in far better condition than the one I may have available.

Regards

[Stigian 1,234]

I will stick up a photo of the engine shroud later so you can see if it's the right one Andy :hide:

[Stigian 1,234]

Is this what your looking for Andy?

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

I have been toying with the idea of segments of mirrored tile

or possibly chrome vinyl film used for sign printing.

The tile segments would allow you to create your own dispersion pattern by gluing the segments into place after "focusing" the light beam to your preference.

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Hi guys, thanks for all the responses so, in no particular order (as is sometimes said) ....

Hood pins: having shortened them and mounted the hood I decided that they would be red to avoid a 'meccano' look so it's reassuring to know that in fact they were painted red though I imagine this was more to do with the manufacturing process than for appearance sake as they are unpainted on my 1980s 200 series tractors which were clearly designed with more efficient assembly on a line in mind.

Buckets: I was really quite pleased with the results produced by the 'chrome' spray which, though obviously nothing like as good as chrome plating, does manage a reflection in which you can make out an image. It's kind of a dull chrome but it doesn't scatter light like standard silver spray so I guess the particles of aluminium are extremely fine indeed. In a way though, the bucket design was fairly simplistic being parabolic in only one plane, and then not even in the same plane as the filament of the lamp so it isn't a surprise to learn that they originally painted them white. I'm sure the lighting was fine for putting the tractor away at dusk and not bumping into anything in the shed but I'm not sure you'd have been able to do serious mowing, for example, in the dark, or if you did, it would have been advisable to make sure that all the family pets were safely in the house.

Chuck, re the mirrors, I'd love to see this done but focusing the mirror pieces is going to take a lot of trial and error unless you have a computer model but even then sticking them in place at the right angles would be an immense task. You could perhaps consider mounting each one on a piezo crystal - a huge matrix of micro thin cable and a computer chip to control the mirrors and it could become adjustable to the owners preference. Having become part of your regulator thread perhaps I shouln't have suggested this - you might just give it a try!

Head shroud: I have no idea exactly how many holes there would have originally been on the missing cover for my Kohler 301 though presumably the main purpose is to allow access to the head bolts for tightening but that shroud looks pretty good to me Ian - let me know what you want for it.

all.

(p.s. Mark, it was ever so tempting to put one or two of the decals on the same day as I fitted the lights but I resisted temptation as it's really not quite time yet but I'll post some pics when they start going on)

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Chuck, re the mirrors, I'd love to see this done but focusing the mirror pieces is going to take a lot of trial and error unless you have a computer model but even then sticking them in place at the right angles would be an immense task. You could perhaps consider mounting each one on a piezo crystal - a huge matrix of micro thin cable and a computer chip to control the mirrors and it could become adjustable to the owners preference. Having become part of your regulator thread perhaps I shouln't have suggested this - you might just give it a try!

Oh yeah ....

DLP technology applied to WH headlights. With the proper PIC programing and a sensor attached to the steering wheel shaft

look ahead, around the corner lighting that follows steering wheel movement !! Great, no cartoons tonight again.

[HorseFixer 2,012]

She's a Beauty the only problem? It's not mine! :WRS:

[Stigian 1,234]

I have no idea exactly how many holes there would have originally been on the missing cover for my Kohler 301 though presumably the main purpose is to allow access to the head bolts for tightening but that shroud looks pretty good to me Ian - let me know what you want for it.

Keep your eye's open for a pm later Andy :hide:

[wheeledhorseman 574]

Today I actually rode on my horse for the first time since taking it to pieces.

The event had been delayed a little by deciding not to re-use the old rubber fuel tank bushing which was really too far gone so I had to wait for a new one to arrive and also the need to hook up a temporary exhaust system as the old one was falling to bits and, being a very tight fit under the hood, had previously scorched the paintwork.

Don't laugh, its actually a muffler for a Kohler though I'm not sure what application it was for. Anyway, it was cheap and ideal for experimening with. There was an moment when the engine fired up and produced blue smoke in huge volumes! I knew that the muffler had been well oiled inside to preserve it but the smoke continued for several minutes before subsiding and panic over.

My Heath Robinson construction also allowed a first look at what a stack arrangement might look like though the exhaust was blowing in my face - not good!

I've also managed to get hold of a NOS Nelson muffler to experiment with - its about an inch shorter than the original WH muffler but I'm thinking it would make a good stack or or so could be adapted to use in the stock postion as it is very much in keeping with the original.

The project grew a bit today as I picked up a deck to refurbish from Simon. I had said that I wasn't going to get one for the tractor but in the end the opportunity was there and it had to be done! Why do I keep taking on more things to fix? :hide:

[Anglo Traction 761]

Tractor's a real Beauty Andy, excellent job !.

Lucky find with the Muffler, and threaded both ends!. A 'Stack' (and some of Meadowfield's decals) will put the Icing on the Cake.

Deck looks a gooden!. It will also lengthen your signature list!!.

I have a spare original Choke Lever Handle if you want it?. It will make the Throttle lever look out of place, but you'll be a step closer to original. PM your address and I'll post it to you FOC.

Regards.