rockinhorse 45 #1 Posted March 23, 2011 :thumbs: raider 12 8 spd rear axle seals leaking. how do you change seals?? do you have to split trans? thanks karl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,603 #2 Posted March 23, 2011 First thing you have to do is remove the hubs. After you have them off, which in some cases is the biggest headache, removing the seals is not too hard. You have to take a small tool such as an ice pick or small flat screwdriver with the tip bent over to 90 degrees, and insert it between the axle and the rubber part of the seal. Catch the hook on the inside of the metal or plastic ring of the seal, and yank it out. Others have drilled a small pilot hole in the seal and inserted a small sheet-metal screw. Grab the screw with pliers and pull the seal out. It's just a matter of getting it out. It doesn't have to be pretty. Just be careful not to damage the axle with any major scratches. Inserting the new seals requires a little more care. The axle needs to be clean, free of rust, scratches, and burrs. Be especially careful around the keyway. Since the edges of the keyway can be sharp, I cover it with a piece of electrical tape. Coat the inside of the seal with oil or grease and carefully slide it onto the axle until it reaches the housing. Then tap it in. Some people use the hub itself to seat the seal, I prefer a piece of PVC pipe that is slightly smaller than the diameter as the seal. Be sure the seal goes in straight and seats all the way into the opening. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockinhorse 45 #3 Posted March 23, 2011 :thumbs: thanks bob i will get seals ordered today . lots of good imfo on here. thanks kar flat rock,inl Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,603 #4 Posted March 23, 2011 If you have a NAPA store close by, I would order my seals from them. The Toro seals are made of plastic, the NAPA ones are stainless steel. They may cost more, but I think they are better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rockinhorse 45 #5 Posted March 29, 2011 If you have a NAPA store close by, I would order my seals from them. The Toro seals are made of plastic, the NAPA ones are stainless steel. They may cost more, but I think they are better. Had trouble with one hub. would not pull off even with gear puller, hammer,pb blaster and heat. Had to cut off did not cut axle. Have new seals in drilled 2nd hole and taped for setscrew. Is it agood idea to put anti-sieze on axle to keep this from happening again? I have flushed trans three times now with kerosene, now have transmission fluid in for another flush. thanks karl flat rock,in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,603 #6 Posted March 30, 2011 I use never-seize on my hubs. Never want to go through the hub pulling nightmare again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stroker 0 #7 Posted April 22, 2011 once beat stuck rear hubs off my early model j-d 110 to change bearings/seals.- screwed up shaft on opposite end where goes thru bevel gear in diff. they mushroom end of shaft to keep on gear. pounding hub off may release bevel gear. then axl slides out and you must split trans to repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #8 Posted April 22, 2011 i learned of a puller here on the square that some members make out of a spare hub,well i didnt have a spare hub so i used a peice of thick angle iron,drilled out the five holes where the lug bolts go into the hub,drilled a large hole in the middle and then welded a nut on the back side of the centre hole so when you crank the large bolt that pushes on the axle it pulls out the hub,with some heat i got the hubs off of my 78 c101 which i dont think have ever been off,it works great and i dont think that it would break a hub because it pulls on all 5 wheel bolts,spreads out the forces Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forest Road 594 #9 Posted April 23, 2011 I just finished rebuilding my trans. Getting the hubs of was the worst part! The right hub had been off once before, never seize all over it. So once I got that removed w/a 3 jap puller the left hub was persuaded. I made a puller out of the right hub w/ a 5/8" bolt and some other 5/16" or 3/8" nuts and bolts. I even put a 3/4 or 1" pipe nipple in the hub to help keep the bolt closer to center. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=27130 When you go to reinstall your hubs use a block and hammer. I mushroomed one of them a little bit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
