my 312-8

[rob65 0]

A gentleman in my town had this 312-8 advertised on CL, so I went and checked it out. He started the machine by jumping the solenoid so I knew it had some issues. I knew it needed a starter, wasn

[rmaynard 15,716]

Rob,

You are in the right category for information on painting. A lot depends on how you want it to look when done.

Review threads on painting and you will find a lot of very good information.

After having done my first restoration last year, and painting it with acrylic urethane, I personally wouldn't use anything else. However, it is not cheap, and you must exercise extreme caution when spraying it as the fumes are toxic.

Good luck with it, and keep us posted with updates and lots of pictures.

Bob

[Kelly 1,030]

As for why the brace is welded on, probably the tabs are broke off the dash tower many are, the seat pan looks right, to remove the rockshaft, clean all the paint/rust off the shaft and oil it so it will move easier, the last one I did I had to heat the center part up alot to get it to move, it is keyed so don't try to twist it, it took two people to hold the dash and pound out the shaft good luck, as for the paint, check out the threads on here that can be a whole new story from cheap to hundreds of dollars, and if you can't spray it yourself, body shops are not cheap. I know I work at one, do you have a Macco paint shop near you?? they will paint a whole car for $200 with cheap paint they might do you a good deal for just the sheet metal.

[dgjks6 6]

Getting the paint off is key. These things were painted after they were put together, so with the paint its took big. I second what Kelly said. And I would put some oil in the keyway and let it sit overnight. It may not be too rusted, they put rust inhibitor on the shaft prior to install.

[dgoyette 12]

Looks like you are off to a good start Rob. That is going to be a real nice looking worker!

[Duff 206]

I think Kelly is spot on with why the seat brace is welded to the hood stand. I've got one apart right now and had to have the broken tabs welded and reinforced.

As to the rock shaft, if you can't get it apart it is possible to carefully spread the hood stand enough to work it out as a unit. May save having to beat things half to death if it doesn't want to slide off as it should. Just a thought.....

Duff :thumbs:

[rob65 0]

I had some time this afternoon to work on the machine. I was able to get the rock shaft out of the hoodstand, Thanks guy's! soaking it in oil overnight did the trick. The only part of the tower left to disassemble is the console. Is there any way to get that spirol pin out of the steering shaft other than an arbor press? I've been at it for an hour! Broke 2 carbide drills, darn it.

[Duff 206]

I had some time this afternoon to work on the machine. I was able to get the rock shaft out of the hoodstand, Thanks guy's! soaking it in oil overnight did the trick. The only part of the tower left to disassemble is the console. Is there any way to get that spirol pin out of the steering shaft other than an arbor press? I've been at it for an hour! Broke 2 carbide drills, darn it.

Rob, there have been sseveral threads about this. The consensus seems to be liberal applications of penetrating oil and a lot of patience. Drilling them out is usually a last resort as the steel in the pins is so hard. One popular trick is to use a punch designed for removing theese pins - it has a nub at the end to keep it centered and is sized to the pin you are trying to remove. McMaster-Carr has them and they're not terribly expensive. Then it becomes a matter of patience and finding something solid to back up the steering shaft with so you have something to pound against.

Duff

EDIT: Here's one thread on the subject.....

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...ering+wheel+pin

[rmaynard 15,716]

Is there any way to get that spirol pin out of the steering shaft other than an arbor press? I've been at it for an hour! Broke 2 carbide drills, darn it.

Probably the most difficult part of my restoration was getting the roll pin out of the steering shaft. Actually I never did. Ended up cutting the shaft to remove it from the tractor. Then I used another shaft and a steering wheel purchased off eBay.

I have been told that a machine shop can get the pin out, but I took the easy way out.

[rob65 0]

sorry guy's, many good posts here on the subject of steering wheel removal, I was going to buy an arbor press anyway, one more good reason to.

[can whlvr 993]

ive never been able to drill out a spirol pin,they grab the bit and snap the bit,i just finished a c101,took every bolt off,except i left the steering wheel on the shaft and the gear and worked around it,my luck i would break the plastic around the shaft where the roll pin goes

[jb4249 131]

As to the paint question. I used Valspar tractor implement enamel from tractor supply. I also bought the hardner and mixed it 4 oz at a time and used what i needed and then you have to toss the rest. I used foam brushes and didn't bother to clean them, just throw them away. It turned out good, not show room quality but bright and hard and it looks deep. I{ chose Ford Red, 'cause i like fords.

Ted

jb4249

Attached Image

[rob65 0]

I drained the transaxel today, this fluid looks nasty. Water in the gearbox?

[dgoyette 12]

Yes sir, I have seen that mix before, looks like cake batter. Water and gear oil. I flushed mine with K-1 twice before refilling with Gear oil to be sure all the moisture was out and to clean it out real good.

[rob65 0]

Yes sir, I have seen that mix before, looks like cake batter. Water and gear oil. I flushed mine with K-1 twice before refilling with Gear oil to be sure all the moisture was out and to clean it out real good.

Hey Darren,...

I have'nt seen any leaks, Should The gearbox be opened up and seals replaced?

[can whlvr 993]

if u dont see any leaks u dont need seals,u dont have to split the tranny to do seals ,some say that that the best way to clean the inside is to split and then u can do a visual on every thing,i have done both,split and clean with some kind of cleaner,and just flush with kerosene or something of that nature,run lightly till warm,empty,run gear iol for a good warming,drain and put fluid in

[C-Series14 15]

What shape is the shifter boot in?

[rob65 0]

What shape is the shifter boot in?

It was dried out, and all torn. I have a replacement ready to go. The pin holding the shift leaver in, and the fill plug, are both corroded together. I'm going to get them out and replaced after I flush the gearbox. It seems everytime I look closer at this tractor, I find another stripped or broken bolt.

[Toejam 1]

I just started on my own 312-8. I found it in a field. I will post pics later. Lots of good stuff to read in this post. Looks like your off to really good start. I was wondering if any one can tell me what models of clutch pedels will interchange with the 312. This one was frozen and I broke it trying to free it. :thumbs:

[Irv 115]

:thumbs: I'm pretty sure a clutch pedal from any 3 or 400 series will fit and I would bet Kelly has one. Make sure you soak anything that's rusted or stuck with penetrating oil for while before you work on it. It will help prevent some breakage.

[rob65 0]

I just started on my own 312-8. I found it in a field. I will post pics later. Lots of good stuff to read in this post. Looks like your off to really good start. I was wondering if any one can tell me what models of clutch pedels will interchange with the 312. This one was frozen and I broke it trying to free it.

Hi and

I also am a newbie. This is the first time I've done any kind of work like this, and have found RS to be a great help.

There is a set on ebay right now from a 312-8, go grab 'em!

[Toejam 1]

Thanks, but I am going to try and weld it together before I buy one. As soon as I figuare out how to get it off. I also have starting issues but we can get into that later. It is in the tear down phase as is the other one here so I will be keeping a big eye on this post to watch the progress.

[smoreau 658]

What shape is the shifter boot in?

It was dried out, and all torn. I have a replacement ready to go. The pin holding the shift leaver in, and the fill plug, are both corroded together. I'm going to get them out and replaced after I flush the gearbox. It seems everytime I look closer at this tractor, I find another stripped or broken bolt.

what happens when the tractor is out in the rain the water will run down the shifter and into the trans if the boot is torn or not there. seen it too many times. all my tractors have a good boot on them. just washing the tractor can do the same thing. You wouldn't think water could get in there that way but it dose. Glad you got a new boot, and I have used mineral sperets to clean out the milky mess (like yours) that came out of one that I baught. filled it to the top and pushed the tractor back and forthe while the belt was off and in gear. drained it and did it again. then filled it with 80-90 looks great so far keep uu the great work!! :thumbs:

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

And was going to begin putting it back together, But I could'nt do it without fixing & cleaning up the other messes I was looking at.

And thus the madness begins.

If you need further assistance on the wiring, I'll be around.

If you're buying the harness or pre-wired components, it's a no brainer.

I still have that empty spot in my workshop like we talked about in our last conversation.

My bet is you will have no issues with the rewire

When you do start, remember the apparent short the PO had across the voltmeter. You cannot place a jumper wire ACROSS a voltmeter to remove it from the circuit, you would leave the + lead from the voltmeter unconnected ( and insulated).

[Toejam 1]

My shifter boot on the 310. Perfect example of what they shouldn't look like and why I am looking to buy one.

Picture of my 310 in progress