Rust pock marks

[trettig 0]

Hello,

I would like to get everyone's opinion. Do you fill rust pock marks with bondo or leave them as part of the tractor's history and paint over them. If you leave the pock marks. Do they look bad or cool?

Tom

[Coadster32 793]

In my opinion, if you're restoring the tractor or giving it a nice fresh coat of paint, I'd fill it. If you want to keep it original and use it as a worker, by all means leave it. :ychain:

[Ken B 3,164]

I agree with Coadster. If you are going for a quality repaint I would fill them. I have heard guys say its part of the history of the tractor type thing but, if there was a big dent in the hood would they leave that as well? JMO.

[grnlark 488]

Fill them for sure!

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

and while your at it,

nothing says quality work like taking each sheared piece of metal and filing off the razor sharp burs from the edges. That little attention to detail stands out and promotes a better top coat cover making it less likely to peel or wear thin at the razor's edge of the shear "smear".

A few minutes with a grinding stone can make all the difference when you address the seam lines on the front axle and rear axle areas. Remove a few "curb rash" marks on the wheel rims and your lookin' good.

[rmaynard 15,715]

Remove all rust from the pock marks or you will have troubles later. Sand blast or e-tank the suspect part. Once properly prepared, minor pits can be filled and leveled with a good filling/leveling primer. Deeper pocks should be filled with body filler.

If I were preparing the tractor to be a show queen, I would fill each and every pit and pock on areas that are visible. If the tractor is being used as a worker, I would just paint over them after properly treating the rust.

Bob

[grnlark 488]

Hey Tom,

If this thread is in reference to the RJ35, then YES, absolutely fill in the pock marks. :ychain:

[COMMANDO1 23]

What is the best runs inhibitor, opinions please

por40?

[trettig 0]

The RJ35 will gets her pock marks filled. Is there any body filler that does not smell horrible? She homes home on Friday after getting sand blasted. I will apply her makeup soon there after. Hopfully when I am done she won't look like a old lady. I am trying to get her ready for the Wheel horse show in Somers Ct. (May 14-15th) this Spring.

[VinsRJ 723]

E-tank and sandblast the parts. Use a good quality etch-primer and then fill the pits in. From there you can finish it off with a good primer-surfacer for top coat.

I'm not a big fan of POR15, I've had 50/50 results over the last 15 years. If the metal is not prepped just right you will have issues. You only know if you have issues when a year or so has past and either rust has returned or it starts pealing off. :ychain:

[CTPATRIOT 12]

Deff. sandblast! :ychain:

[rickv1957 72]

I would fill them pits!!!

[rwilson 128]

I say fill them in. I did not fill them on my 400 Suburban and now that I look at it I should tear it all apart and fill them in. But I guess it doesnt look to bad for my first restoration. Next one will look like it just rolled off the shipping creat. Just my $.02. Have fun with it

[btrrg1969 11]

Fill em :ychain:

[wh79d160 52]

sandblast the parts. Use a good quality etch-primer and then fill the pits in. From there you can finnish it off with a good primer-surfacer for top coat.

I agree with VinsRJ. The etching primer is very important on bare metal as well as a good quality top coat. I think you would be disappointed in the end result if you just painted over the pits. I use the 2 part glazing putty/filler. It sands easier & I have never had an issue w/it shrinking. JMO. Good luck P.S. What's a pock?

[300zx 7]

I use the 2 part glazing putty/filler.

I have seen glazing putty, but not two part. Is it an epoxy?

[rmaynard 15,715]

Most are polyester. The second part is a cream hardener.

This is one of many. http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=29

Other brands come in smaller quantities.

Bob

[Redbirdman 7]

Absolute mixed emotions on this.........When 'tractor restoration' first really started back in the '60's there was a joke about it being a 'partial restoration' or 'COMPLETE' restoration. A complete restoration meant steam cleaning before painting everything, usually including the tires! A partial restoration usually painted right over the grease. But even as the 'hobby' progressed you would still see the rust pock marks in the heavy metal.

But you know what? I really don't care! I love tractors and 'heavy iron' no matter how they are kept running and alive. As long as they are running and cared for.

AFA a spotless, perfect, better than new restoration? All the power to you! But to be honest I am really turned off and annoyed when I see the "Please do not touch" signs on Tractors"........now don't bite my head off. I know you put a lot of work into this. BUT THEY ARE TRACTORS! not your wifes butt! Tractors are meant to be touched....and worked, and worked hard. They are NOT artistic pieces of fragile crap you see at craft fairs. (In my mind)

I am afraid the 'do not touch' pieces of fine artwork are going to turn a great everyman's hobby into just another rich mans collectable. (Have you tried to buy an old Corvette or pickup truck lately?).....

However, It is YOUR tractor....not mine! If you want perfection go for it! But if your tractor runs like a clock, sounds like a powerhouse and has been saved from the mud yard and dump heap; I would give more points for a well adjusted clutch than I would for a 'perfect paint job!'

BTW........how do you tell a restoration from an original Wheel Horse? The answer is: The restoration has perfectly placed decals, On the original they all crooked!

So, back to your question: I DON'T CARE....but that's just me I guess it's nice to see smooth tin work but I don't really care. And I could care less about pock marks in heavy iron, like the axles and trans and stuff.

I would like to get everyone's opinion

OK, ya got mine..

ED

[wh79d160 52]

Even if you do plan to use it & work it hard, you can still take some extra time & do a good job. I'm sure some of your Dad's told you the same mine did, because I know he didn't invent the saying. "a job worth doing, is a job worth doing right" Now "right", I'm sure has many interpretations. I guess it's whatever you want it to be. If I restore my 702, I'll restore it to "don't touch" status because I have 5 d's & a 417-8 I can work. But you know what, my 702 has it's "work clothes" on. (as Tom B. calls it) and that finish can't be reproduced by anybody. It's almost 50yrs old and it looks like it. I think that's as cool as a "don't touch" job. :ychain:

[1961551 2]

we cant see what youve got, but i would say.. if you want them gone, sand blast the areas. its important to get bare metal. epoxy prime areas. then go with a polyester high build primer. it works real good. usally bad areas need more than one coat though. jimmy

[massey 118]

I agree with Redbirdman. rmaynard's right on with the evercoat products, good stuff. Sliksand is another easy to use high build primer filler.

[Anglo Traction 761]

All good advice here in every reply. Fill 'em, use good products as recommended here. Pay good attention to 'Seam' and Spot Welded Sheet Metal joints and make sure they're dry, clean and sealed. The 4 'R's - Resto, Refresh, Refurb and Renovation, all should have relevance to 'Preservation' . After all, I think were all looking to keep these Horses working and looking good for Many years to come.

Prep' work is so important, because when it's done, you can 'Relax more and Wash n Wax less. What ever Tractor your doing, enjoy it.....oh and we would like to see the obligatory pictures after you've done.

Happy New Year.

[COMMANDO1 23]

Redbirdman, very well put. I am currently redoing a commando 8 and have been so cunfused as what to do, well, you just made up my mind for me. It is my tractor. I am bring it back to life. It is going to be a worker,but look good.Iit is not going to even be RED ,although i will leave some red on it. The horse dont care, it just wants to run and work again. Redman, thanks for your insite.

[Redbirdman 7]

:D

ed

PS: but that dont mean you can't always go back and finish off one part at a time to perfection! Sort of an on-going project that I would be less apt to burn out from.

Good luck and keep the photos coming.......

[PPGman 5]

My vote would be to fill those pits/ marks. There's several ways to deal with the pits, just be sure to take the time to clean the rust out and get it as clean as you can. Sandblasting works best, but good results can be had with a roll-lock disk, wire wheel, and a dual action sander.

Be careful with the self etching primers...(most of them don't do well with any type of plastic fillers, or glazing on top of them). Epoxy and urathane based primers would be my first choice with this type of situation.

Good luck with your project :banghead: