brianf 0 #1 Posted November 21, 2010 Any tips on removing an axle bearing (1533) from the unidrive? My puller won't fit and I don't see how I can get it out with my press. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #2 Posted November 21, 2010 This isn't easy, but it works. I just had the races left in mine, and there is no lip to use a punch to tap them out. I had to cut the race with a Dremel tool and then use an awl and/or a small, sharp screwdriver to tap in between the race and the casting. The race is hardened and breaks easily once you cut through. Takes about 1/2 hour to cut. I bought 2 Tungsten Carbide Cutter bits..one was a #9902...not sure of the other one. Another option was using heat on the casting (up to 500 degrees) and the race should fall out. It did not work for me. Wife said no way to use the oven. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #3 Posted November 21, 2010 :thumbs: #1533 is the inner axle / differential end cap support bearing. A slide hammer puller or a long skinny rod will remove them. The outer axle bearings can be removed with a pilot bearing or expanding collet-type puller or driven out from the inside if they're still intact, but can be a real challenge if they're destroyed. If there's nothing left but the outer shell, I usually "cherry" them up with an O/A torch (welding tip - not cutting head) and attack them while they're still hot. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #4 Posted November 21, 2010 #1533 is the inner axle / differential end cap support bearing. A slide hammer puller or a long skinny rod will remove them. I know that TT...but in my case the bearing was destroyed and nothing but the race was left...no way to catch it with a punch or get something under the race to pry it...had to cut it like I said. Just took a little time. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #5 Posted November 21, 2010 I guess I take my welder for granted..... I just tack weld a piece of steel across the inside of the outer race so it can be driven out. (the heat from welding usually helps "pull" the race loose too) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianf 0 #6 Posted November 22, 2010 I ended up borrowing a slider hammer puller and with two good whacks each bearing came out. The shop press came in handy here as a vice. (and to push the roller bearings out) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #7 Posted November 22, 2010 Brian...that is cheating. Not everybody has access to the side hammer thingy. How about posting some pictures of what you did??? :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
brianf 0 #8 Posted November 23, 2010 No cheating....I don't have a hammer puller either but Advance Auto parts does loaners and they have the puller set to rule all pullers. It has the slider hammer with a bunch of attachments, a gear puller, a harmonic/steering puller etc. I attached the bearing hook: Hooked it onto the bearing: And gave the slide hammer two good wacks using the shop press as a vice: Note: this is a re-enactment for your viewing pleasure so if you look closely you'll see the press isn't actually holding the case...but I think you get the idea. Be sure to actually hold the hammer straight up when doing this for real. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #9 Posted November 23, 2010 Now that is what I am talking about...thanks for sharing those pictures. :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
red hot 0 #10 Posted November 24, 2010 what type of grade of gear oil should be replaced in the eight speed rear end ? red hot Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,862 #11 Posted November 24, 2010 You want to use a good 90wt in the trans. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites