dhuberinc 1 #1 Posted October 26, 2010 I'm still trying to get clarification on the starter wiring for my 1960 Suburban. I see on some of the wiring info on here that the pos(+) gets rerouted back through the ignition sw to complete the circuit to throw the solenoid. Some show it going through a regulator then the coil, some show direct to the points. Is this thing on my H55B a Rectifier or Regulator? Are they the same thing? Can I FUDGE it, bypass it, or just gawk at this thing & admire it's silent beauty? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #2 Posted October 26, 2010 On my 551-61 suburban, the positive wire goes from the battery to the starting solenoid. From the solenoid to the starter. The smaller wire on the solonoid goes to the ignition switch. The switch is grounded to the frame thru the housing. The "ground out" wire from the condencer ties into the ignition switch as well, to kill the motor. Anything else is just for charging, and or lights. Pretty basic. I don't have a charging system on mine, so I can't comment on that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorse656 20 #3 Posted October 27, 2010 i have 656 that has a 6hp with a rectifire charging set up.you have wire that goes from the battery to the siloniod and from the siliniod to the battrie. then the small wire from the siloniod goes to the s on your key switch. just p.m. me if you need more help i can send pictures :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 16,976 #4 Posted October 27, 2010 The rectifier is what converts the AC output of the stator coils into DC current. You will need to have it connected in order to charge your battery with the engine. I know my H60 does not regulate the power for charging the battery and the manual suggests removing a diode if running for long periods of time. Not sure what type of rectifier/regulator is on your engine. You could bypass it, I guess, manually charge the battery and gawk away at it's silent beauty. That's a good one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorse656 20 #5 Posted October 27, 2010 if i run mine for a long time i just flip my lights on for a few minuts to keep from blowing my diods i think it dose the samething. :wh: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dhuberinc 1 #6 Posted October 27, 2010 :) Thanks a million men! I got it figured out -sort of. Someone posted a link with a zillion manuals on it and it had a 1961 551 manual on it with the wiring diagram for the H55B. I tested it going around the rectifier and have ignition! HORAY! I'm going to break out my meter this afternoon & see what's happening inside this rectifier thing. It would be nice to know if it'll charge the battery or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #7 Posted October 27, 2010 Take a look at this site http://home.earthlink.net/~edstoller/id11.html go down on the page to section 5-12-0 and you will find a very good explanation of what you will encounter on the rectifier circuit board. keep us updated Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheelhorse656 20 #8 Posted October 29, 2010 if you want to ill fix your diods if there bad. just p.m. me Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CasualObserver 3,408 #9 Posted October 29, 2010 Here's the actual 550 diagram (courtesy of member muka).... this is posted in the literature gallery under 1960. (sorry, didn't see this post earlier) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dhuberinc 1 #10 Posted October 31, 2010 Thanks a million guys! -Chuck, Jordan, Jason.. Everything is crystal clear now. I figured out exactly what I needed to know and was able to test the mag output and diodes, -one was bad but I found a replacement. The ignition switch I have is flakey as heck and upon dissection reveals a plethora of wornout, rusted, and burned up parts. Any suggestions on a suitable replacement part or should I post this as another topic? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zaemo 0 #11 Posted November 12, 2010 I'm going to be in the same boat here since I'm putting a Lauson back into my 551 that's missing all of these parts. Doesn't anyone repop the ignition switch or rectifier, or do I have to buy the old used one off of eBay? Seems like there should be a more complete wiring diagram somewhere. Where exactly is the rectifier mounted? I will probably run a separate wire from the switch to ground due to painted parts. I'll assume the switch is spring loaded for start mode. Z just found the switch on eBay. Someone suggested searching Massey Key and located correct two prong key type switch and keys. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #12 Posted November 12, 2010 Doesn't anyone repop the ignition switch or rectifier, or do I have to buy the old used one off of eBay? Seems like there should be a more complete wiring diagram somewhere. Where exactly is the rectifier mounted? Z, the "rectifier" is actually the 2 diodes mounted to the circuit board. This whole assembly could be easily substituted by a pair of diodes and a fuse holder shrink wrapped into the wires off the stator. This would detract from the "originality" of the tractor, but would be an exact substitute functionality wise - and about $3 total in parts from Radio Shack to get you back up and running. These circuit boards could be duplicated easily if anyone has an interest in doing so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Coadster32 793 #13 Posted November 12, 2010 I took my ignition switch apart, and cleaned it all up. It's not perfect, but it does work. They aren't easy to come by. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DMK855 15 #14 Posted November 13, 2010 Z, I know it is a while away, but you can come take notes and pics from my 551 when I get it down here!! D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zaemo 0 #15 Posted November 13, 2010 Thanks Dwayne, I'll take you up on that. I was thinking I would throw mine in the Silverado and bring it up to your place so you could have a look. Z Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DMK855 15 #16 Posted November 13, 2010 That would be great!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dhuberinc 1 #17 Posted November 14, 2010 I bought a Stens brand ignition switch part number 430-520, says it's for Snapper 1973-88. It fit and works perfectly. I think the big thing on the ignition switches is that theres evidently 2 types. One specifically for magneto ignition and one for battery ignition. The other issue is will it fit in the original mounting hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jsmoe 2 #18 Posted June 7, 2012 How nice to come across this diagram, It should help me sort this mess. I don't know how to determine which wire is which...hmmm..any help would be appreciated! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
305 380 #19 Posted June 7, 2012 the diagram in post # 9 shows you how it is wired the top right post is output and goes to the + side of battery bottom left and bottom right terminals are the two wires coming from the alternator bottom center there is a wire going to the points, also a wire to the switch to ground the points i'd also check the two diodes with an ohmmeter to make sure they are good. in the picture they are installed the correct way. if they are bad i have "fixed" them by taking them apart and put a new diode from radio shack inside the old diode housing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites