Axle came out

[Irv 115]

Hey Guys, I did it today. I picked up a c-100 the other day and today was going to put an oil seal in the right rear and whacked the back of the hub a little too much and out came the axle. I know I'm going to have to split the tranny case to put it back together and install a snap ring. I looked at the drawing on the toro site and it shows part #7169 as the snap ring but the dealer site and Jacks shows it as discontinued. Anyone know where I can get one and any suggestions on doing the job. thanks in advance.

[sorekiwi 761]

Some of the other big online dealers still list it. Check with M and D, and Norwalk Power Equipment.

Failing that it is almost certainly a generic part, although I'm thinking its a monster, thick, "fly across the workshop" type circlip.

You could try Mcmaster Carr when you get the transmission apart and can take some measurements.

[MikesRJ 552]

Try this link: $1.80 - $2.22

http://www.google.com/products?q=7169+%22s...g%22&hl=en&aq=f

[rmaynard 15,598]

My Toro supplier still has them for $1.80 each. If you are buying more than one item, such as seals, gasket, etc. (which you will need when you open the tranny), along with the snap rings, your best deal may be to use someone like MOWPART.COM. Shipping & handling won't be so bad if you order the other items too.

Bob

[Irv 115]

thanks for your help Mike, Mike and Bob. I ordered the parts from Mowparts today. Any inside tips on how to go about this job? thanks

[stevasaurus 22,862]

Irv...drain and pull trans. Support so the shallow side is on the bottom (important). Unbolt and separate trans halves. The differential should lift right out. Unbolt the differential and replace "E" clips. Note to self...find the old one. Replace your seals and put back together in reverse order. Make sure the differential nuts are up when you replace the differential. The nuts will interfere with the large gear in bottom of trans if nuts are down. (important).

One nice trick...make 2 pilot studs for transmission installation. Cut the heads off of (2) 3/8-16 x 2" hex head bolts. Grind or file a taper on the cut off end of bolt. Place in diagonal bolt holes of the transmission. Line up and bolt the other 2 bolts in before you remove the pilot bolts. Remove pilot bolts and finish bolting in the trans. :wh:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

You might also want to inspect the snap ring groove on the end of the axle. There can be enough damage caused by ripping the axle out through the snap ring that the axle actually becomes unusable. (unless machine work is performed)

Example:

Ideally, the groove should have crisp shoulders - but some wear & tear is bound to happen. Here are a few more axles - the front one being the best of the two:

Ironically, I have yet to see a snap ring that wasn't able to be reused. :thumbs:

[stevasaurus 22,862]

very interesting pictures Terry...do you remember how you came by the first one??? How bad was that trans?? Just trying to learn here also...those pics are great. Thanks for sharing...and I agree with you about the "E" rings being reusable, unless you are looking at the first picture.

Honestly...I do not know why they changed from the roll pin to the "E" clip.

Drill a hole for a pin or machine a groove for a clip. Maybe needed a weak spot. :)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

The first one is an axle from a 5073 six speed from a '71 Raider 12. Another unsuccessful attempt at removing the hubs with a "BFH" was the reason it had to be opened up.

I actually prefer the snap rings over the roll pins - mainly because they make it easier to pull an axle if you can't get the hub off.

After 20 some odd years of tinkering on these things, I finally saw a different kind of failure in a Uni-Drive. This is the axle gear from an eight speed in a GT-1642 WorkHorse:

Don't know why or how, but that's the first one I've seen with this particular issue.

It would be nice to get to do just a bearing & reseal job on one for a change. I'm getting tired of fixing broken ones. :wh:

[stevasaurus 22,862]

:) TT...I am thinking that someone doesn't know when to quit. That looks to be total abuse to horses. :wh:

[Irv 115]

Thanks Steve and TT, great pics. I probably won't be doing the jog til spring but if I need more help, I know where to come. :)

[Confused99 2]

I'm in the middle of this job. I have the trans on the bench and can not for the life of me get the halves apart. No matter how many beers or smokes I have is still doesn't come apart. It is apart ~1" but won't go any further. It appears to be hanging up on the shifter ball internally. I tried to remove the shifter to no avail. Is it supposed to be removed before splitting the halves? I will note I tried splitting them upside down first but now have the shallow side down.

Thanks in advance,

Jason

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Yeah... the shifter has to be removed.

[Confused99 2]

Yeah... the shifter has to be removed.

Copy that. Heading back out there now.

[Irv 115]

Now that I think of it, when I looked at the axle when it was out (I put it back in and towed the tractor out back and covered it for now), I remember thinking there's not much of a groove so I'll probably need an axle. There was also about 1/4 in of in and out play on that side.

[Duff 206]

Irv, for what it's worth, there is a certain amount of in-and-out play that's normal for the 8-speed trannies. Usually it's in the 1/8" range, so 1/4" may indicate the groove was pretty badly worn as you observed.

Duff :thumbs:

[Confused99 2]

After removing the shifter like instructed and it came apart no problem. I am having a hard time putting it back together when I know it could use more work ie: bearings, seals, and probably new axles due to enlarged keyways on the hubs. That being said, I have a lead on another tractor that would work great as a donor trans until I have the time and funds to put this one back together correctly. When I do put it together, I will for sure need some guidance.

Thanks for the help guys,

Jason

[Irv 115]

Had a chance to check the axle today and there is hardly a noticable groove. The other side is loose as well. Looks like I will need a couple axles. :thumbs:

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,095]

The early transmissions used a 1/4"x1-1/2" roll pin #1081 to hold the axles in in place of the retaining ring. I can't remember if this is a roll pin or a split pin as the term is often used loosely and there is a difference.

I have drilled the axles and used a pin successfully when the groove is worn.

Garry

[Irv 115]

Sounds like it may be worth a try. I imagine it's probably kinda hard to drill thru the axles though, are they hardened?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,095]

I doubt they are hardened. They are soft enough to wear so should be soft enough to drill with a good drill bit.

The 1-1/2" roll pin length is for a 1" diameter axle.

I recall grinding a flat on the axle to properly locate the hole so the inner side of the hole matches the inner side of the groove.

Garry

[stevasaurus 22,862]

The parts list calls it a "roll pin" and the 1/4 x 1 1/2 is the same for the 1" and the 1 1/8 axles. Gerry, I have a different part # 933217 though, but you can buy them at Ace or TSC. :thumbs: