314-8 drive belt replacement

[Len Haduck 0]

Going to replace original drive belt on 314-8 (model 73449 sn 210000766).

Wondering if anyone could give me a quick lesson on what I will need to do

or if you have any helpful tips?

thanks

Len

[Duff 206]

Hi, Len,

You'll need to remove the footrest and belt guard on the right side of the tractor, along with releasing the hoop that engages the PTO.

To take the tension off the drive belt, use a rope or (better) a tie-down strap to hold the clutch depressed. I run my strap around the foot pedal then around the front axle.

Then you'll need to remove the tensioner pulley from the clutch carrier assembly to get the belt off. Also, you may have to loosen up the metal "finger" on the engine that keeps the belt from jumping off the engine drive pulley. Make sure to remember to tighten it back up after the new belt is on the tractor so it rides about 1/8" off the belt when the clutch is let out and the belt is under tension.

When you put the tensioner pulley back on, make sure to put it back on with the belt properly oriented in terms of the metal tabs that both keep the belt from jumping and act as a belt-brake when you push the clutch in (look at this when you're taking off the old belt and duplicate it at reassembly).

When you put the footrest back on, make sure the belt is riding above the

guide that hangs off the bottom of the footrest. Then put the belt guard and PTO clutch hoop back on and you should be set to go!

Guys, did I forget anything?

Duff :)

[racinfool40 202]

:) I read this twice and about exactly how I do it on all Mine!!

[Len Haduck 0]

Appreciate the info. very much. Will get to it Friday.

As always......this site is great.

thanks

Len

[HankB 16]

Very helpful information Mr. Duff. I just replaced the drive belt on my '85 312-8 and would add the following details.

• I did not need to fully remove the tensioner pulley. I held the nut behind it with a 9/16" (14mm) open end wrench and used a 9/16" 6 point socket on the rather shallow bolt head. After loosening it a bit, I was abvle to slip the old belt off and the new belt on.
• When I looked under the footrest I saw 4 nuts and removed them all. Once off, it was obvious to me that the inboard nuts hold the belt guard/belt brake to the footrest and probably need not be removed. The outbboard nuts hold clips that secure the footrest to its supports.

Incidentally, one video I watched showed the rear fender removed and I did not find that necessary.

 

Thanks again for the information.

[DMB41 5]

On ‎5‎/‎4‎/‎2020 at 4:40 PM, HankB said:

Very helpful information Mr. Duff. I just replaced the drive belt on my '85 312-8 and would add the following details.

• I did not need to fully remove the tensioner pulley. I held the nut behind it with a 9/16" (14mm) open end wrench and used a 9/16" 6 point socket on the rather shallow bolt head. After loosening it a bit, I was abvle to slip the old belt off and the new belt on.
• When I looked under the footrest I saw 4 nuts and removed them all. Once off, it was obvious to me that the inboard nuts hold the belt guard/belt brake to the footrest and probably need not be removed. The outbboard nuts hold clips that secure the footrest to its supports.

Incidentally, one video I watched showed the rear fender removed and I did not find that necessary.

 

Thanks again for the information.

Hi HankB,

I just replaced the drivebelt on my '88 312-8 and I can not get my tractor into gear... I can move the shift knob effortlessly if the tractor is off, but as soon as I start it up, I get funky noises as I try and shift into gear. Any idea what may be going on?

[HankB 16]

16 hours ago, DMB41 said:

Hi HankB,

I just replaced the drivebelt on my '88 312-8 and I can not get my tractor into gear... I can move the shift knob effortlessly if the tractor is off, but as soon as I start it up, I get funky noises as I try and shift into gear. Any idea what may be going on?

It sounds like your belt is not coming to a full stop when you depress the clutch. That should be easily visible from the driver's seat. Things I can think of that could cause that would be.

• Drive belt not long enough to allow sufficient slack.
• Drive belt too narrow such that the tab on the tensioner pulley does not put sufficient pressure on the belt to stop movement.
• Improper routing around the various belt guides. (Not sure if this is possible on the 300 series tractors, I think it could be done with some older models.)
• Clutch pedal adjustment resulting in insufficient movement of the idler/tab to stop the belt. I've never adjusted mine but I suppose there is an adjustment.
• Belt cover not installed. (Again, may not matter for the 300 series but could be more an issue with older models.)

I have heard recommendations that owners stick with the OEM parts for belt replacement. I can see where slight differences in belt dimensions in either direction could affect operation of the parts of the mechanism that cause the belt to come to a stop when the clutch is depressed. Are you using an OEM belt?

[DMB41 5]

14 minutes ago, HankB said:

It sounds like your belt is not coming to a full stop when you depress the clutch. That should be easily visible from the driver's seat. Things I can think of that could cause that would be.

• Drive belt not long enough to allow sufficient slack.
• Drive belt too narrow such that the tab on the tensioner pulley does not put sufficient pressure on the belt to stop movement.
• Improper routing around the various belt guides. (Not sure if this is possible on the 300 series tractors, I think it could be done with some older models.)
• Clutch pedal adjustment resulting in insufficient movement of the idler/tab to stop the belt. I've never adjusted mine but I suppose there is an adjustment.
• Belt cover not installed. (Again, may not matter for the 300 series but could be more an issue with older models.)

I have heard recommendations that owners stick with the OEM parts for belt replacement. I can see where slight differences in belt dimensions in either direction could affect operation of the parts of the mechanism that cause the belt to come to a stop when the clutch is depressed. Are you using an OEM belt?

Thanks for your response! I put the old belt back on and it started working again. The old belt was a toro this new belt is a blue belt I purchased from tractor supply. Must be different dimensions in the belts. Where can I purchase OEM belts? Thank you!

[HankB 16]

1 hour ago, DMB41 said:

... Where can I purchase OEM belts? Thank you!

You could check your local Toro dealer. They should be able to get it.

I just purchased an OEM deck belt from a third party seller on Amazon. Ordered May 6 and it should arrive today. They're not the speediest shipper but if it is the right belt I'll be happy. You have to read the Amazon listings carefully because the sellers seem to try to disguise whether the parts are OEM or aftermarket. I'll follow up when the belt arrives.

 

Edit: The belt I received was not OEM and was not listed as such on Amazon. It's the belt that connects the three blades on a 42" deck. My recollection is that I could not find the OEM belt for that application and settled for a "replacement" rather than go to my local Toro dealer. I don't think exact fit is that critical for this belt.

Edited May 14, 2020 by HankB

[tom2p 2,394]

1 hour ago, HankB said:

You could check your local Toro dealer. They should be able to get it.

I just purchased an OEM deck belt from a third party seller on Amazon. Ordered May 6 and it should arrive today. They're not the speediest shipper but if it is the right belt I'll be happy. You have to read the Amazon listings carefully because the sellers seem to try to disguise whether the parts are OEM or aftermarket. I'll follow up when the belt arrives.

 

Edit: The belt I received was not OEM and was not listed as such on Amazon. It's the belt that connects the three blades on a 42" deck. My recollection is that I could not find the OEM belt for that application and settled for a "replacement" rather than go to my local Toro dealer. I don't think exact fit is that critical for this belt.

and all 'OEM' belts are not the same 

 

some of the current 'OEM' belts are lower quality 

 

the 'OEM' belts I've purchased made in Mexico have been hit or miss ... mostly miss

 

I replaced an old true OEM 10+ year old deck / rotary belt with a new OEM belt last summer ... the new belt was purchased from a long time Toro / Wheel Horse dealer ...

 

the new belt did not work well (bouncing / flopping) and began to show significant wear soon after it was installed ...  removed the new belt and threw it in the trash can ... and re-installed the old belt 

 

had the same issue with a PTO to deck belt ... belt was apparently fairly new based on appearance ... OEM belt - Wheel Horse (or Toro) name and part number still visible - and it showed significant wear was already beginning to fail ... this new 'OEM' belt was not molded / wrapped like many / most true OEM belts ... 

 

threw this belt in the trash and tried one of the blue belts ... the listing said made in USA - but the belt I received was made in India ... ( can't make a belt in the US anymore ? !!! ) ... but the made in India belt is performing much better than the belt I removed 

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by tom2p

[tibadoe 4]

Going to replace the Drive Belt on my Toro.  Will be ordering the belt from the dealer today.  Does anyone have the Part # handy so I can confirm the are ordering the correct one?  I have a 314-8.  Model #73449 -SN# 210000785.

 

Thanks

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,090]

Here is a parts list

 

[tibadoe 4]

Finally got around to replacing the drive belt.  Was a pretty simple job.  Happy I finally got it done.