Save Old Iron 1,566 #26 Posted December 8, 2012 Thanks Duff - for reminding me I wanted to do this a couple of years ago - and still have not !! :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #27 Posted December 8, 2012 Great idea, I've been thinkin' 'bout how easy it would be to hang wheels. It is a pain bending over trying to line up the rims with the hubs. Your post made up my mind for me! Going to studs. Wheel Horses, Stallions, Studs, right? Makes perfect sense! :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wyattrrp 59 #28 Posted December 8, 2012 Another great idea shared here that I probably wouldn't come up with on my own. Added this to my to-do list. In the mean time for those of us without studs, instead of lifting the tire onto the hub and having to align all the bolt holes, then trying to insert the first bolt while holding the tire up and pushing the rim against that shallow hub circle, typically just to see the tire slip off and drop before getting the bolt started, my father years ago showed me the following method: Jack the axle so the hub is about 1 to 4 inches higher than the tire rim's center hole, then roll the tire next to the hub until any single rim bolt hole aligns with any hub hole, turning the hub slightly by hand if needed, then screw the first bolt in while the tire is sitting on the floor. The tire won't be centered on the axle yet. This works even if the bottom hub hole aligns with a side or top rim bolt hole. The tire can be up to 5 inches behind or in front of the axle when one of the holes will easily line up, as long as the tractor isn't jacked too high. The bolts are long enough to start the threads while the rim is standing slightly away from the face of the hub. Screw the first bolt in roughly 1/3 depth, then lift the tire by rotating the hub until that first bolt is up top and let the tire hang on that bolt. The rim then centers itself on the hub circle so you can push it against the hub face. When that first bolt is at top, all the other holes are self aligned and the weight of the tire is held by the top bolt making the other 4 bolts easy to start. Wyatt 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 55,826 #29 Posted December 10, 2012 What kind of bolts would be strong enough to allow me to increase the wheel spacing? Or is that not possable? Thanks Francis If you intend to use wheel spacers you would want to use solid spacers. The Wheel Horse five blot patern is the same as a Ford car ( 4.5 inch ) so you should be able to find them on line or at any auto parts store. :flags-usa: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 567 #30 Posted December 11, 2012 I have about 10 sets of these I'd sell kinda cheap ....I bought a bunch for the show but didn't sell too many...I have them for the big tractors too...D's and such but they cost about twice as much. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #31 Posted December 11, 2012 I'm callin' your Duff! Just wrote the bolt sizes down and my four Stallions are soon to be upgraded (or Duff'ed if you will). To cheap out, can only one stud per wheel be used to hang the tire? Then you could use the remaining four WH wheel bolts and save the 5th for a spare! Hoodoo WoooZer! Unless of course Mr. Claus could see his way clear to weigh down the stocking over the mantel? "Dear Santa, My Horseees need their hoofs re-shoed. They need acorns (nuts). They've all behaved very well this year and worked really, really hard too." Forget it! Goin' to Duff all four Stallions hoofs! Great idea! Was a pain bendin' down lining up the wheels, so old fashioned! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #32 Posted December 11, 2012 (edited) Thanks, Tankman! I'd a darned sight rather be known for wheel studs than that cheap beer that shows up from time to time on the Simpsons! Duff :ROTF: Edited December 11, 2012 by Duff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #33 Posted December 11, 2012 Thanks, Tankman! I'd a darned sight rather be known for wheel studs than that cheap beer that shows up from time to time on the Simpson's! Duff Your "Duff" will be in the Owners Manual next printing! P.S.: Is the gnat still the New Hampshire state bird? They can be annoying when I visit your state! Move 'em to Mass where Kerry is, they deserve 'em. :-) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #34 Posted December 11, 2012 Thanks, Tankman! I'd a darned sight rather be known for wheel studs than that cheap beer that shows up from time to time on the Simpson's! Duff Your "Duff" will be in the Owners Manual next printing! P.S.: Is the gnat still the New Hampshire state bird? They can be annoying when I visit your state! Move 'em to Mass where Kerry is, they deserve 'em. If by "gnat" you mean our pesky black flies, then yep, we've still got the bitey little b*st**ds in droves! NH version of the Air National Guard! I've a mind to send a bunch of 'em to DC to see if they'll get the folks on the hill moving in some direction - any direction - but preferably one that helps out the little guy. OK, enough on politics - back to tractors! Duff :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #35 Posted December 11, 2012 (edited) Oops! Edited December 11, 2012 by Duff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #36 Posted December 13, 2012 Well I got tired of fighting putting wheels on the tractors. So I coped some one else's idea. Here is what they look like, a picture of the hubs,both sides. I got the 71/6 -20-thread-1 1/2 from McMaster-Carr. The 7 1/6 20 thread nuts from Brandsport.com. (Acorn/ Tapered Seat,Open End) Chas Thanks Chas, picked up my hardware today. A chore for tomorrow! I'm going to like this just fine! Thursday morning, 0830 hours Just started Dufferin' my 416 rear hubs, goin' to like this! Thanks again for the Duff Stuff! Picked up the bolts at Home "Cheapo", and a few lug nuts from the auto supply. They ran out, everyone must be Doin' the Duff. Had to order the remainder of the lug nuts from Brandsport.com, wow, cheap enough. On the bolts, did you use thread lock? or not? What is the Duff routine, "Lock 'R Not"? Meet the New Hampshire State Bird '65 Barracuda Years ago, many, bought a '65 'Cuda, put mags on it (of course). Spare was a stock rim, I had to carry two sets of lug nuts. One set of nuts was gold (RH threads), the other set, purple (LF threads). Left and right hand lugs nuts. This Duff is so simple the lugs are all the same! :woohoo: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #37 Posted December 13, 2012 On the bolts, did you use thread lock? or not? What is the Duff routine, "Lock 'R Not"? Threadlocker BLUE is the thing to do! ~Duff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #38 Posted December 13, 2012 On the bolts, did you use thread lock? or not? What is the Duff routine, "Lock 'R Not"? Threadlocker BLUE is the thing to do! ~Duff Threadlocker BLUE it is then. Thanks Gnat Duff! My additional lug nuts shipped today. I did install a couple, looks real Duffy! When the additional lugs arrive I'll back out the 7/16 bolts, add Threadlocker BLUE too! Update Delivery I can use on the other horses, all three of 'em. Here's the new view of my '85 416-8 WH's rear wheels. Geeze is that nice or what? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,461 #39 Posted December 14, 2012 I go to auto supply store and buy knurled lug studs and lug nuts, GM of course. Drill holes to appropriate diameter and use the nut backwards to pull it into the hub. No need to loctite. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #40 Posted December 14, 2012 I go to auto supply store and buy knurled lug studs and lug nuts, GM of course. Drill holes to appropriate diameter and use the nut backwards to pull it into the hub. No need to loctite. Don't think I would want to drill out the tapped holes in my hubs. I did look at the studs, dismissed the idea. The bolts were cheap enough, had Mr. Duff's blue Threadlocker too! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #41 Posted December 17, 2012 Sunday - Update 5-year old Grandson came over this morning, early. Wanted to plow. Plow what? "We" worked, with explanations for every step. Had to explain the Duffering processes all the way. The '88 414-8 got studded out, chromed lug nuts. Both of my 400's are now Duffed. Using 12mm SS washers under the bolts, the metric washers have a smaller OD (outside diameter), don't hang over or meet the edge of the hub. Neat. To Follow Chapter 3 - Will be the '68 Raider 12. Needs help, studs will make him feel so new. Chapter 4 - The '73, "No Name", 12 hp, Auto. A real worker! His auto surprises me and I love his 'lectric PTO too! He deserves a little treat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #42 Posted December 17, 2012 Great idea. I kind of stopped swapping tires on my Wheelhorse tractors as they were a pain to hold in place and my back ain't what it use to be either. FWIW, I've got a Gravely 2 wheel tractor and the attachments are bolted to the front. The Gravely uses hardened bolt/studs so you can put the implement in place without damaging the thread. I'm wondering if you could get a hardened bolt/stud for the Wheelhorse wheels? Just a thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tankman 3,518 #43 Posted December 17, 2012 Great idea. I kind of stopped swapping tires on my Wheelhorse tractors as they were a pain to hold in place and my back ain't what it use to be either. FWIW, I've got a Gravely 2 wheel tractor and the attachments are bolted to the front. The Gravely uses hardened bolt/studs so you can put the implement in place without damaging the thread. I'm wondering if you could get a hardened bolt/stud for the Wheelhorse wheels? Just a thought. Class 5 as well as 8 are strain hardened bolts. Both withstand loads of up to 100,000 psi. Surely more than needed for wheel studs/bolts. Consider, there are five (5) studs on each wheel. They're not goin' anywhere! :ychain: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leeave96 487 #44 Posted December 17, 2012 Great idea. I kind of stopped swapping tires on my Wheelhorse tractors as they were a pain to hold in place and my back ain't what it use to be either. FWIW, I've got a Gravely 2 wheel tractor and the attachments are bolted to the front. The Gravely uses hardened bolt/studs so you can put the implement in place without damaging the thread. I'm wondering if you could get a hardened bolt/stud for the Wheelhorse wheels? Just a thought. Class 5 as well as 8 are strain hardened bolts. Both withstand loads of up to 100,000 psi. Surely more than needed for wheel studs/bolts. Consider, there are five (5) studs on each wheel. They're not goin' anywhere! I think what I'm saying is that the thread profile might get mashed when putting on the wheel on and possibility making it harder to screw on the lug nut. That's what I encountered on my Gravely. Once I bought the hardened stud, the problem went away. But I agree that grade 5 or 8 bolts will do a great job of holding the wheels in place. Thanks! Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #45 Posted December 17, 2012 I've studded a few tractors over the past few years, and I used grade 8 bolts on all of them, I've never had a problem with them, I don't use washers I add a few drops of blue loctite to the last threads just before it goes all the way in, I just ordered tap bolts to do the C-195 they are 9/16" fine thread, and 6 per wheel, and the nuts I had to order, I'll have $40 into studding that tractor but I plan on loading the big 12.5x29x15 tires and I know they are going to weight in the 175-200lb ranges each, so I did not want to have to line up the holes to put bolts in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #46 Posted December 17, 2012 One item on my list of needed accomplishments during winter lay-off is to buy GM car wheel studs and drill out the WH hubs so they can be pressed in. If they'll hold a wheel on an automobile at highway speeds, they will definitely hold a tractor wheel. Example: Dorman 610-114 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,969 #47 Posted December 17, 2012 Got to do this too! .......................................................when i have time:) Tankman, you are getting ahead of me on the 416's!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #48 Posted December 18, 2012 One item on my list of needed accomplishments during winter lay-off is to buy GM car wheel studs and drill out the WH hubs so they can be pressed in. If they'll hold a wheel on an automobile at highway speeds, they will definitely hold a tractor wheel. Example: Dorman 610-114 Terry, what's the practical advantage of pressed-in studs over the Grade 8 bolt method? Not being critical, just curious? Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shynon 7,461 #49 Posted December 18, 2012 Not sure if there is any advantage, I think it would be personal preference Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #50 Posted December 18, 2012 Terry, what's the practical advantage of pressed-in studs over the Grade 8 bolt method? Not being critical, just curious? Duff There isn't any advantage unless you already have the wheel studs. They are definitely a 'fix' for stripped hub threads though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites