Raider-Tiller project

[Raider 2]

I picked up a tiller a while back for my Raider but was missing the belt guard and belts to run the original two belt setup. I thought the single belt drive would be simpler to install and remove also since the Raider has floorboards and the right one would need moving each time with the old drive.

Here's how I've changed mine to work with a single belt under the tractor. I bought the belt before making the front idler and built the idler to fit. I had to mount the tiller as far to the right as I could in order for it all to line up since I eliminated the double pulley idler.

So far it runs true but hasn't been tested for long. I have a yard project coming up this fall and will be tilling up the garden after the killing frost which should be a good test.

[Raider 2]

Today I tilled up a small area in my yard in preparation of some new grass. The tiller worked great, the Raider didn't break a sweat. My soil is sandy so it fluffed up easily. I was surprised at how many tore up tree roots were left behind though! The puny spring I had on my home-made idler got stretched out so I went and found a heavier one. I didn't have any issues with it at all except for a couple of monster wheelies in 3rd gear, lots of weight back there...

Next task for this machine is the garden in a few weeks. The dial-a-height should help out since I don't like to get too deep in the garden and bring up a bunch of sand.

[Duff 206]

Nice modification! Great work!

Duff :USA:

[Raider 2]

Thanks! Everything could use a coat of paint though...

[Anglo Traction 761]

Thankyou for this, immaculate timing, I am about to start the 'Head Scratching' phase of the Tiller set-up myself and you've saved my scalp (though not my hair)!. Neat Set up.

Regards.

[herbinohio 0]

The pin that you are using to connect the hitch to the tiller shaped L. Is that a Wheel Horse pin ? or something you made ? I am looking to move my tiller to my 518, but i dont have that pin.

Thanks

[Gerry w 2]

Really nice job on the transfer pulleys, they look great! Raiders love to pop wheelies with the tillers on, also they will get pushed along by the tillers as well.

[Raider 2]

The lift parts all came with the tiller except for my slot hitch. The pin part is L-shaped and threaded on the vertical portion, 1/2" I believe.

I haven't had issues with being pushed around but then my soil is light and I've got aggressive chains wraped around those tires, makes for a good combo.

[trucker79005 0]

Here's how I've changed mine to work with a single belt under the tractor. I bought the belt before making the front idler and built the idler to fit. I had to mount the tiller as far to the right as I could in order for it all to line up since I eliminated the double pulley idler.

I've been searching for ideas on how to build the framework for that idler pully for my C-165. I think mine has some different kind of bar that latches under the tractor... I can order all the parts except the frame off of parttree for about $60, but was wondering if i could go a lot cheaper visiting the hardware store

What would i need to know about those pullies to get some that would work, or did u pay the big $$ for oem ones?

[Raider 2]

I got those pullies from Tractor Supply and the rest of the material out of the scrap bins. The belt was the big expense. I'll measure the pulleys up later tonight, can't remember off hand what they were exactly.

[Raider 2]

Here are a few more pics, I took the idler off so I can get some paint on it. The shaft that snaps into the mid-tach is 3/4" solid with a couple of collars tacked on to locate the idler. The flatstock was drilled through and welded over the barstock. I got the pullies to fit 3/8" bolts. Like I said earlier I got the belt first and made up the idler to fit it since the belt was the most expensive and critical part in making this work. I just eyeballed the whole thing more or less and it is working well so far.

The diameter of the pulleys should not be critical since they do not play any roll in speed reduction as they are only idlers.

[trucker79005 0]

:USA: Really appreciate the extra pictures and the reply! Sounds like the big deal is to get the pullies far enough out from the frame so the belt runs straight and get the angle right to tension the belt and that's it.??. Sure admire you guys that can fabricate i can dream stuff up, but getting it to work is a whole nother ballgame :wh:

[tgranthamfd 29]

Nice fab job, I paid 50 bucks for my used one with one new idler on it. Good idea to do it that way, sometimes the right belt can be a pain, 1 inch does make a difference.

[Raider 2]

The part is all painted nice now. Another thing I didn't mention is that the arm that the small flat idler is mounted on has a couple of holes in it so I can adjust the position of the pulley to get the belt tension/length just right.

I should be hauling in some topsoil this week or next for a couple of landscape projects and will be able to put some more time on the tiller.

[mike avad 41]

could someone tell me dose the drive belt on the Idler pulley assembly also

[953 nut 55,515]

2 hours ago, mike avad said:

could someone tell me dose the drive belt on the Idler pulley assembly also              ALSO WHAT?