Types of slot hitches?

[Flintlock 0]

Where there different types of slot hitches? Mainly different length of the arm that the cable attaches to. I have one on a 1055 but need one on my C-105. The mount ears are the same but it just looks like the cable arm could stand to be a little longer. I looked on the parts viewer with no luck.

[145Automatic 7]

I use a slot hitch on later model wheel horses (312's ,C-145), and its the same hitch that fits on my 633. The Later models use a seperate rear lift arm that fits up under the fuel tank. The cable runs fron the mid lift arm to the rear lift arm and a chain runs from the rear lift arm to the slot hitch. On the older horses the cable ran stright to the slot hitch. The picture shows the rear lift arm assembly. They can be found but are a bit pricey. Hope this helps.

Attached Image

[Flintlock 0]

So the ones that use a lift like the one you posted have a seperate receiver on the trans case like the old ones? I have a C-105 and just trying to figgure what I need. Thanks for the picture. That part looks easy enough to make.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

The pieces pictured above are the engineers way of getting more travel at the lift hitch or attachment with the same travel at the lift lever arm.

The basic external dimensions of the Uni-Drive tranz case remained almost the same from 1961 to the present, so you should be able to install any slot hitch on your C-105. Whether you use the bellcrank (relay) assembly pictured above or just hook it directly to a cable is entirely up to you. The only thing you have to lose is a little height when lifting what ever is hooked into the hitch.

[Raider 2]

More travel or more leverage? If I'm understanding the picture and explanation right hooking the cable from the mid bellcrank to the rear where it's shown and hooking the chain inside of that would result in a little more leverage at the handle. Does this type of setup work on '70s c-series and '80s 300-series? I'd like rear lift on all of my tractors if possible.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Oops.... yeah - I guess I had travel on the brain when I typed that.

It would increase leverage and/or decrease effort at the handle when using manual lift. Those fortunate enough to have hydraulic lift would notice anything different.

The other relay lever (for the tillers) offers multiple chain positions to provide adequate downward travel when tilling yet still be able to raise the tiller for transport.

This style of lever can also be used with clevis and slot hitches.

Other than minor variations in the length of the pivot shaft and the location of its e clip grooves, "standard" garden tractor models built from 1976 on (solid mounted rear fender) can be fitted with the relay lever assembly.

[Raider 2]

So my 312 would use the rear crank part and my '74 c-160 would be direct cabled then? The c has a hinged fender, gas tank under the hood. That linkage looks easy enough to fabricate in the workshop. Good pictures and diagrams :)

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

So my 312 would use the rear crank part and my '74 c-160 would be direct cabled then?

That is correct.

Since you can never have enough info and pictures, here's the drawings for the other two:

[Flintlock 0]

I swapped all the hitch stuff from the 1055 to the C-105 and it was all the some same and fit just fine. For some reason it just did not look that way at first. Thanks guys.