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dustycarter

312-8 help

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dustycarter

Hello. I posted on another thread but I might have this figured out. Will safety switches prevent current from going to the key to start it? I found out that none of my switches are working. I got my seat switch grounded and then my brake switch is getting rewired. So if I get all these switches working and all of them grounded, will my tractor start now with the switch? Thanks for the replys.

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WH nut

You should have 12v going up to the switch, if it isnt there look for a blown fuse or a broken wire. Once you get it to the switch then you can go from there

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dustycarter

Changed both fuses and no broken wires that I can see. But the pto switch and relay, does anybody have any pictures of how its hooked up real close form different angles? If you do will you please post them and what all the wires are from. Thanks.

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rueger-99

What year is your tractor? what was the part# of the new ignition switch? Does the starter turn over when you turn the key?

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dustycarter

What year is your tractor? what was the part# of the new ignition switch? Does the starter turn over when you turn the key?

Hello. 1988 is the year. It was a stens ignition switch and the part number is 111215. And no I have to cross the solenoid. Want even click when i turn the switch. Thanks

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rueger-99

Go here;https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm in the model#box enter 42-20OE01. ( thats a letter "O" before the "E") Download the free mystification guide and scroll down to page 7-35. Focus on only the starter circuit diagram. Its pretty straight forward from there.

Send me your phone# if you can't figure it out and I'll help you over the phone.

Chris

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WH nut

Have you checked thing with a test light or volt meter. You need to know if you are getting the proper voltage to the right things. Visual wont work.

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dustycarter

Thanks to all who have replyed. WHnut, I have not checked the voltage. I will do that tomorrow. Chris, thanks for the website. I couldn't get the model # to work. I have a wiring diagram here too so maybe I could just use the start diagram on this one. Yes i will send you my number if I can't get tyhis blame thing to work. I thank each and every one of you for the help. I will post here tomorrow if I can't get it to work. Thanks. Dusty

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WH nut

Good luck and let us know if you need more help. With the diagram you should be able to follow the path all the way

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rueger-99

Here's a # that works for the Demystification guide. Copy and paste the # in the model# box and enter "none" for serial. 31-14K801

Good Luck!

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dustycarter

Hello everybody. Thanks for the patience. I have fiddled with it more today. But of course it didn't work. heres the thing. Is there any way I could by pass all the lights and just have the starting system, voltmeter, and the hour meter? Will that mess something up? I do appreciate all of your alls help. Thanks again. Dusty

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rueger-99

Save yourself!! Go purchase a cheap pocket multimeter at Radio Shack....It's a lot easier than you think if you take it in small steps. Looking at the schematic for your machine there's only a couple things it could be if your getting 12v. from the "S" terminal (Tan wire) on the ignition switch with the key turned to the start position. Take the black wire from the meter and connect it to the battery ground (Clamp it there so you don't have to hold it), I would start at the switching relay. I'm not familiar with the layout of that machine, but if you follow the single (purple) wire back from the starter solenoid it should take you back to the switching relay. disconnect the "Lt Blue + Dk Blue" wires from the relay, with the ignition switch turned to start check for 12v. at each wire. If there's no power on the "Lt Blue" then you have a bad PTO switch, Clutch switch, broken wire or just a bad connection. If there's not 12v. on the "Dk Blue" then the oil level switch is stuck open, bad wire or connection, (checked the oil level lately ??). If you have power on both then reconnect them to the relay and with the key in the start position check for 12v at the terminal going out to the start solenoid....No power? replace the relay....Power? check the wire to the start solenoid. I'd use just the meter and probe backwards in the circuit until you find power and your problem. This should get you started anyway...... :thumbs:

If I knew how to post the start circuit I would, but its on page 7-35 in the demystification guide.

Good Luck!

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rusty dog

I just joined red square and i have just ben reading on the 312-8 help.And just got the same mach and im glad im not the only one haveing a hard time on the elect! but im realy glad i found red square with some knowledgeable people! cant wait to try some of that extreamfully helpfull tips. Thanks Rusty dog

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Duff

Rustydog, :D !

There are a bunch of folks here willing to help out, so if you've got a 312-8 (or any other :D ) and have any questions, just jump in and start a thread with the problem. We're all here to lend a hand!

Duff :ychain:

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rusty dog

thanks Duff. Had no time to mess with the horse today gonna try tomorow.Ill let u know how i made out.Im shore i will be pick'en ur brain summore. thanks again. :ychain:

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rusty dog

ok still trying to hear that moter run.got new starter,battery,and stator.going for the oil safty switch tomorow. to my suprise all test lights work on the dash, engine oil light flashes.got plenty of oil must be the oil switch right? :ychain:

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yorkiesB-80

DO you guys know anything about a 1974 B-80 will not start with key cant pin point whats keeping this out

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Kevin wh314

Hello. I posted on another thread but I might have this figured out. Will safety switches prevent current from going to the key to start it? I found out that none of my switches are working. I got my seat switch grounded and then my brake switch is getting rewired. So if I get all these switches working and all of them grounded, will my tractor start now with the switch? Thanks for the replys.

Hey Dusty ! I had a problem with my 2000 Wheel horse 314 and it turned me inside out and upside down because i didn't know all of these safty switches all over the tractor but after getting to know this tractor i found a swith on the shift lever that had broken off. This swith is called a magnetic reed switch and will not allow the engine to start till the switch is satisfied that the trans. is in neutral. Mine has a plastic little flag on shift lever with a metal band wraped around it to satisfy the magntic field. It has two roll pins that go through the shift lever to retain it. Mine was lying on top of the transaxle so i reattached it and everything is fine now. Good luck with yours hope this helps! :ychain:

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