dustycarter 3 #1 Posted July 23, 2010 Hello. Been messing with this blame thing for 2 hours and finally just left it. I have so far bought a new solenoid. then I went and spent $30 on an ignition switch. Nothing. The tractor will run if I cross it over. But will not flinch if I turn the key. the voltmeter will go all the way over to 8 and the clutch pedal and parking brake lights come on. I have no seat switch. Never have had one on their. Both fuses are fine. Bu maybe I think this solenoid might be different. Heres the one I got. http://cgi.ebay.com/Toro-111674-Starter-So...=item335ed6d290 BUT the little thing on the bottom, on the old solenoid I had 2 on 1 side and teh otehr on the other side. Now I just have one. Could that be the problem. It says that this solenoid will work. I just want the dang thing fixed IThere is some wires loose but they are not important. Any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #2 Posted July 23, 2010 Not sure what you have but all the solenoids I've dealt with had this. 2 small terminals meant one was power (start terminal of switch) and the other was ground. it could be mounted on plastic and still work. If it had 1 small terminal, it meant that the solenoid had to be grounded thru it's mounting hole. Mike Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #3 Posted July 24, 2010 Are you getting 12 Volts to the small termal whe you have the key in the start position. If not, run a jumper from Bat+ to the small terminal and see if it start. if it does the solionoind and starter are good. No id you dont have 12V at the small terminal you have a safety switch or wire problem. The start side goes from switch to clutch to pto safet switch. Its a process of elemination. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,535 #4 Posted July 24, 2010 The first question I have to ask is do you have a wiring diagram or are you trying to do this in the dark? Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dustycarter 3 #5 Posted July 24, 2010 The first question I have to ask is do you have a wiring diagram or are you trying to do this in the dark? Bob Yes. I do have a diagram. I traced all the wires. I think the guy before me that had it rewired it in different colors. There are alot of stray wires, taped up wires and wires that are not connected. WH nut. It will turn over and run and work just like normal. But I can't get it to start with the switch. I bought a new solenoid for it just a few days ago. I am right now having to dig potatoes . So I am just crossing it over. This is really confusing. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dustycarter 3 #6 Posted July 24, 2010 Not sure what you have but all the solenoids I've dealt with had this. 2 small terminals meant one was power (start terminal of switch) and the other was ground. it could be mounted on plastic and still work. If it had 1 small terminal, it meant that the solenoid had to be grounded thru it's mounting hole. Mike Hello mike. Thanks for the help. I grouned the black wire and pluged in the start(orange) wire. Hopefully thats a few steps forward. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #7 Posted July 24, 2010 Post a pic of the solenoid if you can. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dustycarter 3 #8 Posted July 28, 2010 Sorry for the late reply. Here is what I bought http://cgi.ebay.com/Starter-Solenoid-Toro-...=item335f26b8f3 Thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISup...em=220639705331 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #9 Posted July 29, 2010 See my post above. You need to find a starting point and go from there, jumping all around just waste your time. Check to see if you have 12 volts to the switch, and then coming out in start. Let us know from there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #10 Posted July 29, 2010 That solenoid needs to be grounded at the mounting bolts to work. Make sure the surface of where ever it mounts is clean and is actually a ground path. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dustycarter 3 #11 Posted July 29, 2010 Hello Squonk. I sanded everything, and cleaned it off with before I mounted the new solenoid on the plate. Don't you just love electrical. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 41,171 #12 Posted July 30, 2010 Hello Squonk. I sanded everything, and cleaned it off with before I mounted the new solenoid on the plate. Don't you just love electrical. I used to do automotive electrical work in a shop when no one else would do it. I told them don't hurry me and no flat rate BS. I wasn't going to spend 4 hrs. on a car and get paid for 20 min. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #13 Posted July 31, 2010 :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dustycarter 3 #14 Posted August 7, 2010 See my post above. You need to find a starting point and go from there, jumping all around just waste your time. Check to see if you have 12 volts to the switch, and then coming out in start. Let us know from there Ok here is the truth. I have traced every single wire down just like you told me not to do. Then put it back together and then the fuse for teh voltmeter and the light blew. Oh boy. And my voltmeter is lost in teh wind about 4 year ago. I just never bought a new one. Honestly Rick I am sick of this thing. Is there a way I could just by pass the lights and all that and just have the start, voltmeter and hour meter to work? Thanks very much. I am sorry for all teh this here and this there. Thanks again! Dusty Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WH nut 553 #15 Posted August 7, 2010 If you want to bypass allt he safety switches, run a wire from the start side of the ign. Switch to the small terminal of the solinoid Share this post Link to post Share on other sites