IthacaJeff 151 #1 Posted July 12, 2010 Okay folks, Just got the new drive belt for the 416-8, but I've got no manual on how to put it on. I searched RS and the internet, and the only thing I can find tells me I've got to take off the belt guard and the footrest. Tell me it ain't so. Anybody have a step by step install guide? Thanks, Jeff in Ithaca/Enfield NY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodge 6 #2 Posted July 12, 2010 Take off the belt guard/footrest, pull the pto clutch off and the belt retainer, remove belt and install new one. Put back together. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #3 Posted July 12, 2010 It's only a few bolts in each - and two bolts in the PTO brake pad. -Two screws on the top rear of the belt guard (through the "center console" plate), and three fasteners on the side will get the guard off. -Two nuts to loosen under the footrest and it will slide out off of the "pegs". -Depress the clutch pedal and tie or strap it in the "down" position. -Remove the idler (tensioner) pulley from the arm it's bolted to. (don't bend the tab above the pulley) -Some models have a wire belt guide under the engine pulley that will need loosened and lowered out of the way. Remove the old belt from the tranz pulley first, then remove from the engine. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ -Install the new belt on the engine pulley first, then on the tranz pulley. -Reinstall the tensioner pulley and remove the device holding the clutch pedal down. -Reinstall the PTO brake and adjust it so it has about 1/16" clearance when the PTO is engaged. -Adjust and tighten the wire belt guide - if equipped. -Reinstall the footrest and the belt guard. Edit: Yellow is belt guard fasteners Green is footrest fasteners Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,415 #4 Posted July 12, 2010 It might seem like a pain in the butt to swap out, but if you have bought a genuine replacement from TORO I bet the new belt will last 10-20 years. I wonder how many of us have bought 10-20 year old tractors with original belts. Oil gets changed each season or so but belts get changed when they finally give up it seems. Mike..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jpmcleod 4 #5 Posted July 12, 2010 And that's exactually how it is done as described by TT. Really not a bad job. Should take less than an hour. I needed a phillips screw driver for the shifter plate, a 3/8th wrench for the belt guard bolts and a 1/2 socket in for the foot rest bolts. Off and on in no time. Good luck. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,145 #6 Posted July 12, 2010 I just thought I'd also add that on some models it may be necessary to remove the four bolts securing the PTO friction disc to the drive pulley so you can slide the disc away far enough to get the belt up past the upper PTO bail bracket. (#25 in the following IPL) These bolts are accessed by pulling the complete PTO pulley assembly (#33 thru #39) straight off of the inner bearing race on the end of the crankshaft. Once the bolts are removed, slide the half-circle clips out of the groove on the inner race and pull the friction disc (#43) away from the engine pulley. #41 & #42 in this IPL: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IthacaJeff 151 #7 Posted July 13, 2010 Thanks gents, that is what I was looking for, though it certainly will take longer than I had hoped. But you are right about the longevity; this was certainly the original belt and 21 years old. My frustration is that I had to stop mowing the morning before to fix the mower deck -- replacing a spindle mandrel (fortunately the ones from my cracked 42" RD fit my 48" SD). One thing about the WHs is that they are work fixing! Jeff in Ithaca NY Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #8 Posted July 13, 2010 Following up on TT's last post, if you do have to remove the PTO, it would be a really good time to clean everything and repack the bearing #38)! JMHO.... Duff :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodge 6 #9 Posted July 13, 2010 Thanks gents, that is what I was looking for, though it certainly will take longer than I had hoped. But you are right about the longevity; this was certainly the original belt and 21 years old. My frustration is that I had to stop mowing the morning before to fix the mower deck -- replacing a spindle mandrel (fortunately the ones from my cracked 42" RD fit my 48" SD). One thing about the WHs is that they are work fixing! Jeff in Ithaca NY "...they are work fixing!" Did you mean to say that, or say "worTH fixing!"? Compared to most mowers out there, I think that WH's are generally much easier to work on. And, I definitely think that they are worth fixing! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IthacaJeff 151 #10 Posted July 14, 2010 That would be worTH fixing. . . because they work??!! Okay, bad typing and poorer editing. Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
