My Now C-145 Headlight project

[tgranthamfd 29]

When I got my 80 model black hood, all that was there was the old broken headlights, so I decided to upgrade and put it all back in. I think I will try the direct link on this one because I ended up with 45 pictures. Included is a nice replacement head lamp, $10 each, good replacement tail lamps with dual bulbs $4.99 each at Tractor supply, and miscellaneous wiring connectors and wiring used. almost all connections were crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked. new 2 into 1's were made, and all was designed straight from the Wheel Horse wiring diagrams. As you will be able to see I didn't do very good at first on some of the close up pictures, but I finally got it all dialed in. I think I had a total of about $50 tied up in the upgrade and did it all in a week, most was done in an hour or two a night after I got off of work. All in all I am very happy with the way it turned out, and it is almost as bright as my 2005 315-8 Classic GT (Toro Wheel Horse). Please disregard my buddies wife that was making gestures in one of the pictures. Oh, and by the way that was her cool adult beverage not mine. Thanks for looking. If anyone wants to know more about anything they see, feel free to ask.

Here's the link.

http://s300.photobucket.com/albums/nn23/tg...45%208%20speed/

Hope this works, never tried it this way.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Terry,

The link works great

and the work you did is SUPERB !!

FYI - 3M makes a heatshrinkable dual wire boot for Y harnesses. The boot is actually formed in a Y configuration so when you shrink the boot, there is no open area at the Y in the tubing , the entire connection is covered.

I 'll see if I can link to their website for the product.

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Terry,

here is the 3M site with the "breakout boots" for heatshrink Y connections.

http://www3.3m.com/catalog/au/en005/utilit...ler/output_html

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

Terry, I had a chance to look thru your pics on Photobucket.

On the pic below - 2 minor corrections I would propose.

Yellow circle - this is a high vibration area and the rough edges of the frame will eventually wear thru the insulation of the wiring. Either relocate the wiring or place a rubber grommet in the hole to protect the wire from vibration.

Green circle - the upper tie wrap will create a pivot point for the wiring as the hood is opened and closed. This will eventually cause the wiring inside the insulation to break from being flexed at the tie wrap location. You may want to try placing a short piece of plastic wire loom at this area. Tie wrap the loom to the hinge area and allow the wire to float freely thru the loom. This removes a fixed stress point on the wiring.

:D

[tgranthamfd 29]

Good point on both and thanks for the 3M link.

[gwgdog66 23]

I snapped a vid of it last evening.

[mavfreak 11]

I don't know why you would want to give everyone the fingure when they go look at your pictures

great info for I just got a black hood with lights broken in it and you gave me some great ideas. Thanks :D

[W9JAB 156]

Ya call them Headlights?

[tgranthamfd 29]

The head lamps were A Wagoner #4411 Sealed Beam, listed as off road lighting. The back of the lamp had a screw type connector instead of the blade type connector. Wagoner also had a lamp that was brighter that had a smooth front with a clear glass, for about the same price. I got the head lamps at my local parts store but they had them at O'Reilly, as well.