Lacquer vs. Enamel

[rmaynard 15,323]

I have searched the forum and haven't found anything on this subject.

Does anyone have any opinions on the use of lacquer vs. enamel on the total re-paint of a tractor?

I ran into a couple of my old high school buddies (and I mean old) who build hot rods and do custom motorcycles, and they still swear by lacquer. My opinion is that even though it is easy to work with, and easy to repair, it won't hold up to the day to day use of a tractor.

I would be interested in your opinions, especially from the body and paint guys out there.

Bob

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

I ran into a couple of my old high school buddies (and I mean old) who build hot rods and do custom motorcycles, and they still swear by lacquer.

You did tell them you intend to paint a TRACTOR, right ?

Dirt, mud, scratches from branches, etc ?

You can get a million dollar shine from lacquer but it requires a tremendous amount of final finish work to get that shine.

With enamel, the shine is 90% there when you finish spraying.

With lacquer - no workee - no shinee !

The shops I see still using lacquer tend to use for quick, get it back out the door type of finish work.

[VinsRJ 721]

I agree with the above statement, in addition sometimes lacquer can be hard to locate seeing its not the generally excepted material to use anymore for repaints. A lot of auto paint wholesalers will not even sell lacquer to the general public.

[rmaynard 15,323]

I agree with everything that has been said.

These good-old-boys that I was speaking with told me that they are using a system from Dupli-Color called Paint Shop Finish System.

Duplicolor Paint Shop System

I looked it up and the 'system' consists of primer, paint, and clear coat.

Don't think I want to try lacquer, however, with the clear coat, the buffing to a high gloss is eliminated, and the stuff is only $20.00 qt. Dries in 15 minutes and has no time limit on re-coat.

However, there are only 2 reds available in the system, and probably neither is close to Wheel Horse red.

Bob :omg:

[Raider12 13]

Again, agree with everything said. But another thing to remember is lacquer can be damaged with gas and other fluids spilled on it. Enamel, you can add a hardner to it and it will be much more tolorant to harsh chemicals.

[rickv1957 72]

Lacquer paint was the best paint to use in the 60s for autos but nowadays is all but history with all the newer style paints,Rick

[algrc120man 0]

its a little bit more pricey but i would go with a base coat clear coat paint such as ppgs omni au i have used it a lot and it is very durable and easy to work with and the nice thing about clear coat is you can do a fix job on minor scratches with out having to redo the color if you have 3 or more coats of it :omg:

[360magnumstocker 0]

Ok....just my opinion....BUT.....$44 for a GALLON of Valspar Restoration Series + $20 for the hardener....why would anyone think of using something that costs more. I am using the Valspar now and that stuff is awesome. The shine is unbelievable, and its very inexpensive. When I had to buy a quart of (red) Transtar to touchup my racecar it was $95!! Plus....you have to spray the base coat then the clear coat.

Valspar.....one shot and it's done. Life is good!!!

[rmaynard 15,323]

Ok....just my opinion....BUT.....$44 for a GALLON of Valspar Restoration Series + $20 for the hardener....why would anyone think of using something that costs more. I am using the Valspar now and that stuff is awesome. The shine is unbelievable, and its very inexpensive. When I had to buy a quart of (red) Transtar to touchup my racecar it was $95!! Plus....you have to spray the base coat then the clear coat.

Valspar.....one shot and it's done. Life is good!!!

Valspar IH Red in direct sunlight looks too orange for my taste. If I'm going to spend $44 for paint, plus $20 for hardener, $8 for thinner, and still only have an alkyd oil-based paint, I might as well get a custom-mixed acrylic enamel and know it's going to be the right color.

Since both require the use of special breathing masks, I'll spend $20 bucks more and buy the better stuff.

Bob

[360magnumstocker 0]

BUT... a quart of Valspar is only $14...more than enough to do 1 tractor. I bought a gallon to do 3 tractors plus 3 steel doors.

Valspar IH red does vary a little from can to can......(hence only being $44 a gallon?) I've seen some that looks great and some others that do look to orange. Don't forget,the color of the primer underneath has a lot to do with the finished color also.

Also,color correctness was not that important to me. I was ready to use E-5 Mopar red until I saw the price of the Valspar.

[horsefeathers 15]

Guys, I'am goinna' poure one in to the paint gun! URETHANE w/catalyst! Very easy to spray especialy for novice painters, two medium wet coats and yer done! Good coverage, great shine,dries fast, and lasting durability! Can be top coated w/Urethane clear for that prepetual wet look! ( but doesn't realy need it) And did I say very afordable too! Check out the Kerker line up very afordable! Many other brands availble and easy to work with! 25+ years body and paint and this is one of my personal favorits! But like I always say opinions very! Just a thought! HORSEFATHERS!

[rmaynard 15,323]

Guys, I'am goinna' poure one in to the paint gun! URETHANE w/catalyst! Very easy to spray especialy for novice painters, two medium wet coats and yer done! Good coverage, great shine,dries fast, and lasting durability! Can be top coated w/Urethane clear for that prepetual wet look! ( but doesn't realy need it) And did I say very afordable too! Check out the Kerker line up very afordable! Many other brands availble and easy to work with! 25+ years body and paint and this is one of my personal favorits! But like I always say opinions very! Just a thought! HORSEFATHERS!

I meant to say "acrylic urethane" not enamel. I have been looking at the Kirker paint system for a while and the only thing that holds me back on any of these paints with catalysts or hardeners is the health aspect. They all require special breathing protection, and warn of long-term health issues without. I don't have a paint booth and fresh-air mask available.

Bob

[PPGman 5]

Pretty much what everyone has said regarding lacquer is true in my experience. If you choose to use lacquer, plan on getting to know your buffer well....you'll be using it alot. With all the paint technology available now.......lacquer is just not in the same ball park as other catalized paints as far as durability, and ease of use.

Horse feathers has a very good point here. There are tons of good economy paint brands that delever good results and for much less. Any catalized urathane will hold up far better than anything off the hardware store shelf. Nothing wrong with hardware store paint, as long as you don't mind repainting again when you loose the shine. Until i aquired some painting skills later in life, hardware store paint has kept our horses and attachments rust free for many yrs, and in that respect they do an outstanding job.

I have used the Kirker line a few yrs back on an overall, and found it to be easy to work with, and very affordable. Other systems you might want to price are PPG's Omni, PPG's Shopline, Dupont's Nason, and Transtar to mention a few. All these systems have their shortcommings, but for a tractor, they would fit the budget quite nice. Keystone Automotive has their own line of undercoats and clears and i have had good success with them too. If your using clearcoat....check it first and make sure it doesn't have a yellow tint to it. Some of the economy clears, have a yellow tint, and it throws your base color off!!

I ended up using base clear on both my tractors primarly because i wanted something that would hold up well for a long time. I also like the ease of going back in and being able to touch an area up if I need to. We use these tractors all yr round, ( they're no barn queens), and what i like best about them is that you can hose them down, clean them up and they look as good as the day we painted them.