K181 carburetor adjustment

[eibbed 63]

Gentlemen ,

I can't hardly get the engine to start, and previously when it did start, it ran rough for only about a minute and quit. Today I got it to try to fire with three or four pops and then nothing. The engine was cold and it tried to fire only when I did not have it choked. I checked fire to the plug with a lighted spark plug tester and have good fire. However when I pulled the spark plug, it was wet with gasoline. After cranking for awhile, I even noticed gasoline starting to seep from, I think the spark plug hole, onto the top of the head.

I have a confession to make. When I removed the carburetor to clean it this winter, I neglected to count the number of turns on the needles. Now I can't find any literature on this carburetor to tell me what make it is, which needles are for what, and how many turns I should back each needle out.

I am not a mechanic, and don't even pretend to be one, so any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

I have numbered the screws in the picture (looking down at the carburetor) for reference.

Dave

[eibbed 63]

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

#1 - 1 1/4 turns out

#3 - 2 turns out

#2 is the idle speed screw and will need turned in until the engine idles no less than 700 to 800 rpm. This screw is nothing more than a throttle stop and holds the throttle plate open in the venturi enough that the air/fuel mixture is sufficient for idle speed.

After the preliminary settings on #1 and #3, start the engine and allow it to reach operating temperature.

With the throttle control set at idle, turn #1 (this is the idle or low speed mixture) out slowly until the engine starts to sputter or slow down. Then turn the screw in until the engine "reacts" (slows down). Return the screw to the midway position - which is usually about 1/4 of a turn. (more or less)

Set the throttle control to "wide open" and do the same with #3 (high speed mixture)

If this doesn't help, you may need to remove the float bowl and check the float level and/or the needle and seat. (it might have some dirt in it - which will allow gas to leak past and flood the engine)

[eibbed 63]

Thanks Terry,

I adjusted the screws per your instructions, but she wouldn't start, so I will remove, clean and check the carburetor bowl, float etc. tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Dave

[1961551 2]

hi, i would recomend to glass bead the plug or replace, since it was wet. could have been running too rich. clean carb and adjust like terry specified in previous post. clean and set points to .020 jimmy

[eibbed 63]

First a to you Terry and you Jimmy.

I removed the carburetor, took it apart, cleaned it, reassembled it, set the screws and bolted it back on to the engine. She fired right up and runs great.

Dave

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Excellent! B)

[Roger from southern Iowa 1]

Good deal! With all this good advice you had no choice but to win over that carb. :omg:

[eibbed 63]

Gentlemen,

I am in need of some more good advice. I put the mower deck on today and tried it out on a couple of clumps of grass. It worked great. I started and stopped the mower a few times and it did great until the last time I tried to start it. Nothing, absolutely nothing!

I removed the battery and had it tested. It was only a little low on charge, so it's on the trickle charge now.

I've done a visual for the obvious, loose wires or whatever, but couldn't find anything.

What do you suggest I try next?

Thanks in advance,

Dave

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

Check both wire connections on the ammeter first. If they're OK, work the PTO engagement lever back & forth a few times (return it to the "disengaged" position) and try it again.

If that doesn't help, you might need to bypass the PTO safety switch or the clutch safety switch.

There's a lot of potential things to check, but I would go after those first.

[Roger from southern Iowa 1]

Great advise from TT.

Going one step farther, IF those checks don't cure the problem I'd suggest removing and cleaning all the ground connections. That has caught me a few times.

Just another possibility.

[eibbed 63]

Thanks again!

Terry,

I checked the connections at the ammeter first and they seemed ok. Then I worked the PTO lever back and forth a few times and left it in the disengaged position. It still wouldn't start, so just for the heck of it I tried holding the key turned all the way to the right while I pulled the PTO lever from engaged to disengaged and she started every time. I know it's not right, but at least I can get her started for now.

Any thoughts on what I need to do to get it working properly?

Roger,

I did check the ground connection and it was good. I had clamped her down good and tight when I purchased the tractor last fall.

Dave

[rickv1957 72]

Dave,your pto switch is not working properly,you may be able to add a shim to left end of pto lever to help engage switch,Rick

[eibbed 63]

Hi Rick,

I tried pulling the lever back from engage to disengage as Terry recommended but this time I applied sideways pressure pushing the lever ever so slightly to the left. That did the trick. Your suggestion of adding a shim to the left of the PTO shaft put My thinking back on the right track. She starts right up again just fine.

Thanks guys!

Dave

EDIT; She's acting up again, so I may go with the shim yet. The best part is that she will start one way or the other :D