Tractor Dash Panel Restoration Tutorial

[MikesRJ 552]

As restoration quality and New Old-Stock (NOS) Wheel Horse Dash Panels are harder to come by, it becomes necessary to restore what you have rather than replace the part entirely. This page is dedicated specifically to the restoration of an otherwise "good condition" dash panel that has been time-weathered, and return it to its original luster.

The following process can be used (with little variation) on any parts made of vinyl, plastic, PVC, cloth, leather, or rubber. This includes items such as; shift handles, height adjusters and belt tension knobs, steering wheels, wheel caps, seats, plastic handles, hood latches, etc.

The VHT line of products is extensively used in the automotive/aircraft restoration worlds for returning anything made of these materials back to near original appearance. See more details concerning VHT Vinyl Dye products at this website: http://www.vhtpaint.com

TOOLS REQUIRED:

1. Small bristle brush and Dawn Dish Detergent

2. 1/8" Metal punch and heating source (if making repairs)

3. 800 grit Wet/Dry Sand Paper

4. 0000 (fine) Steel Wool

5. Brake Fluid

6. Paper Towels

7. VHT Vinyl Dye, Gloss Jet Black (p/n: SP941)

8. Elmer's "Painter's" Opaque Paint Marker (fine and wide tip, WHITE)

9. Exact-O Knife, Dental Picks and Toothpicks

PAINTING TECHNIQUE:

The white borders, letters, and symbols on the dash panels were originally manufactured using a screen printing technique. Since reproducing this technique is far more difficult for the "home restorer", this relatively easy method is presented to mimic the original process. The technique I use is pretty straight forward and quite simple to do.

The most important thing to keep in mind is that you are NOT trying to completely cover the black dye color (underneath the white paint) in a single pass. What you ARE trying to do is build-up multiple, very thin layers of paint (usually two or three), until the white completely masks the black underneath and you are left with sharp, crisp edges and an overall opaque paint coverage of these raised dash panel details.

The second most important aspect is to insure your panel is well supported (i.e. will not move during the painting process) while the heel of you painting hand is firmly planted on the work surface as you apply paint. This will insure the steadiest hand, and you will therefore have better control of the paint marker tip and where it touches while you apply the paint.

Of third importance, as in any paint application process, starting off with a well prepared surface ALWAYS results in a higher quality final appearance. Complete and thorough cleaning, drying, repairs, and re-cleaning are all painstaking and necessary steps, before applying any dye or paint to the surface. The instructions below go into greater detail where necessary, and if followed closely will result in a "better than new" looking part for your tractor restoration.

When painting with the white paint markers, insure the tip is about as wet as when using an artists "dry-brush" technique before touching it to the part. Apply the paint so it thinly "flows" over the surface, and use a paper towel to keep the tip "almost dry" of wet, runny paint between individual characters on the plate. Apply the paint with a very light touch in single passes only. Don't cover any more than a single pass at a time, building layer thickness with each additional coat. As always, follow the package directions for all of the products used in this process.

Step 1: Thoroughly Clean the Dash Panel

The entire dash panel should be thoroughly cleaned of all dirt, grease, oil, and old marking paint on all sides. Brake Fluid is a good paint and marking ink softener, but care must be taken to insure the brake fluid does not "melt" the plastic. I normally test the Brake Fluid method on the back of part, or on an surface which will not be seen when the part is installed, to insure the brake fluid will not attack the plastic. Use the brake fluid sparingly to "loosen" any foreign materials (paint, ink, or hard stains) from the surfaces. Then with a combination of 0000 steel wool (try not to scratch the plastic), gentry scraping using the edge of an exact-o knife, and/or dental picks and tooth picks, you can easily remove the unwanted debris.

Once all of the foreign matter is removed, the plate should be thoroughly scrubbed with a small plastic bristle brush and Dawn Dish detergent. This will remove any remaining oil and dirt from the plate, the corners, and the edges. Rinse with warm water and allow the piece to thoroughly dry before continuing. Once it is completely cleaned it should look like the image below.

Step 2: Repair Surface Blemishes

This is the tricky part. If any face blemishes exist you need to make a choice whether to make the repair or leaving it as-is. Obviously, starting with a high quality, unblemished panel is more desirable, you may not have a choice. Repairing any surface issue may only result in a far worse appearance than leaving it alone. Choose wisely based on your abilities.

Only one surface blemish was corrected on this example, the second blemish ("wiggle" in Electric Clutch "OFF" arrow-bracket) was left alone as it was too dangerous to attempt repair without further damage. The right side of the "N" was smashed down and the right "leg" of the "N" was partially split in two. A small round punch was used to "re-form" the letters edge by heating the punch tip to just below the melt point of the plastic, and "pushing" the letter back into shape. The split essentially closed up and re-bonded to the adjacent part.

Care must be taken to not overheat the punch as you do not want to melt the plastic, only make it soft so it will "move". Once repairs are completed, re-clean the part as you did in Step 1.

Step 3: Restore Plastic Color and Shine

Many products exist to restore vinyl and plastic to their original luster. VHT produces a vinyl dye in several colors and the product is NOT A PAINT! It truly is a dye designed for vinyl. The product comes in Gloss and Flat finishes, but I prefer the look of the gloss, as it appears more like a new part than does the flat finished dye. VHT Vinyl Dye Gloss Jet Black (p/n: SP941) in the 11 oz. aerosol was used to treat this Dash Panel. The panel should only require a single, light coat to restore it to original appearance.

NOTE: Allow the dye to absorb and surface-dry at least 4 hours before proceeding to painting white.

Step 4: Apply First Coat of White Paint

Applying the white paint is rather easy, but does require a little technique and a steady hand. For this step I have used Elmer's "Painter's" Opaque Paint Markers. They come in several tip-sizes (fine point and wide used here) and is composed of an opaque acrylic paint. The acrylic paint bonds very well to the dyed plastic, and holds up to temperature and the elements quite well too.

LARGE PANEL DETAILS: Using the wide tip, very lightly cover the large borders with a single pass, DO NOT go over them a second time as doing so will leave "brush marks" in the paint. The result should be an almost see-through appearance in the white paint. Several coats will be necessary, so if the black shows through, leave it alone. Also, "paint" any large details on the face area; such as the choke symbol, large letters, rabbit and turtle; using the wide tip paint marker.

SMALL PANEL DETAILS: As before, you are applying a very thin coat, so make sure the marker tip is almost dry (as in dry brushing) and apply only a very thin coat on the first pass. Using the fine tip marker for lettering and small details; use a patting (tapping) technique to apply paint to the tops of the letters. Begin at one end of the letter and overlap your taps, moving toward the other end of the letter. Don't wipe the paint on, PAT it on! Especially at the ends of the letters. This keeps the paint from "rolling over" the edges of the raised detail, and it should almost pool on the top of the surface on subsequent passes.

NOTE: Notice the black showing through the white in the image below. Keep the first coat of paint VERY, VERY light.

Step 5: Apply Additional Coats of White Paint

ALLOW AT LEAST 4 HOURS BETWEEN COATS

The application of paint continues as described in step 4 until all of the painted areas are completely opaque and covered well. This is normally accomplished in two to three coats. If you have blotchy or spotty coverage you can use 800 grit wet-dry sand paper to lightly sand the white faces to even the paint coverage, then apply a final top coat after cleaning the part. Make sure you allow the paint to dry thoroughly before sanding, and re-clean the part before applying the next coat of paint.

Make sure all surfaces are evenly covered without brush strokes. The image below shows good coverage with very little over-painting. Some letters and small details will need to be scraped and cleaned up prior to applying the last coat of white paint.

Step 6: Finishing Up

The final step in the process is to clean up any mistakes or over-painting. This step is normally done BEFORE the last coat of white paint is applied, so that any scrape marks or edges can be covered on the final pass. I normally use dental picks, tooth picks and/or the tip of an exact-o knife to clean any edges which were over-painted or where paint has been errantly deposited between letter lines. Any over-paint on the panels surface can be covered up by spraying some of the VHT dye into a small cup and using a fine tipped artists brush to "dry-brush" the paint drip into oblivion.

When the entire piece has dried for a full 24 hours you can then buff the entire surface with a wadded-up piece of regular kitchen paper towel. The paper towel is course enough to remove any dust which may have settled on the details, polish the faces, and burnish the letter and detail edges; resulting in a truly polished and natural look to the piece.

The completed piece will now be "show-ready" and look like the images below.

Thanks goes out to RMaynard for the use of his B-80 dash panel in the creation of this diatribe. Bob mentioned somewhere on this board that he was looking for an NOS panel for his B-80 restoration, that he had an old usable one in-hand, but did not like its appearance for his restoration. I offered to restore his old panel for this tutorial, and perhaps he will use it on his B-80 should he not find another. Hope you enjoy the tutorial, and Bob, Thank You for allowing me to use your panel for this example.

[Horse'n Around 22]

Wow that looks great. Thank you for posting this. I never thought of using one of those paint markers, great idea! Obviously it takes patience and some time but its well spent and the results speak for themselves.Good work and thanks again!

John

[mavfreak 11]

i tryed something simular only I used black paint. didn't trun out near as nice. I want to do it over now. Very very nice job

[rmaynard 15,516]

Many thanks to Mike for a fantastic job. I will be at the WHCC show in Arendtsville, PA, with the tractor. A sign will be prominently displayed saying "MikesRJ was here".

Bob

[Lane Ranger 10,968]

Mike: Very nice job and the detailed steps and photos are an excellent example of a tutorial that any member can use to repair/restore and or just replicate what you have done with the dash plate.

I have been using the Elmer's White Paint maker for highlighting all the B-80 dash plates. But the complete job you have done is outstanding work.

Thank you for sharing with the Red Square members! Great job.

B)

[Roger from southern Iowa 1]

I'm impressed! This will be used by me and lots of others I'm sure, to put that "finished" look on future restorations.

Well done. Thank you!

B)

[rmaynard 15,516]

Thought I would give this a little more perspective.

Below is a picture of this dash while still attached to a C-160.

Now compare it to the restored dash after Mike worked his magic. Amazing.

Bob B)

[kajamo240 3]

Wow! Very Impressive!

[Save Old Iron 1,566]

The only problem is he spelled IGNITION wrong.

Ha ! made you look !

Great job Mike (as usual).

[Indy w h 5]

Quite impressive B)

[can whlvr 993]

exelent job and good how to info too B)

[Suburban 550 28]

Beautiful job, Mike. Very well explained in your tutorial. B)

[fireman 1,021]

Great job on this tutorial Mike! I know myself along with others will benefit from this.

[C-Series14 15]

The only problem is he spelled IGNITION wrong.

Ha ! made you look !

Great job Mike (as usual).

Yea...I looked...

Nice looking!

[rickv1957 72]

Very nice work there! Rick

[DMK855 15]

Nice Job Mike!!

You should do a tutorial on restoring an RJ wheel next!! I just need your address to send you one!! B)

[MikesRJ 552]

I may just do the tutorial on the steering wheel yet!

[JimD 3,345]

Great job Mike! This is what makes Redsquare the place to be for Wheel Horse tractor help and information. The willingness to freely help each other learn and grow in our hobby without expectation. Thanks for sharing a job well done. B)

[tgranthamfd 29]

Nice, nothing more can be added to what has been said. :party:

[dclarke 4,032]

outstanding job mike! thank you. B)

[GlenPettit 1,716]

Great job:

If I may add: If your original old panel has warped or curved, that can be reduced and almost eliminated also; remove and clean the panel, lay between two pieces of clean glass (plate glass is better), add about 1

[markslawnmowerworld 4]

nice work mike........keep the tutorials coming...... B)

[rmaynard 15,516]

Great job:

If I may add: If your original old panel has warped or curved, that can be reduced and almost eliminated also;

[stevasaurus 22,764]

excellent tutorial Mike...I think Fan said it best. This forum is really the place to be. Nice add-on by Glen Jeri also. B)

[MikesRJ 552]

A more complete version of this How-To has been added at the following link:

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/modules.php?na...o=show_doc&id=1