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rmaynard

Cracks in Frame/Transaxle Plate

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rmaynard

I have 3 different frames. One from a C-160, one from a C-161, and one from a B-100.

All three have cracks in the transaxle mounting plate. Below is a picture of the C-160 frame/plate.

My question is what is the best way to correct this problem? Should I back up the plate with another plate? Who has had this problem and corrected it? It is necessary to do anything?

Thanks

Bob

06a5b5ea.jpg

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rmaynard

There have been a few topics on this in the past. Here's one. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?showtopic=4957

Jason,

Thanks for that thread. I now know just what I'm going to do. Looks like a 1/4" plate, a little welding, and some longer grade 8 bolts will do the trick.

Bob

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hotrodmerc

My 552 had that same issue. Just cut a 1/4" plate cut the old one off and weld the new one in place.

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1961551

this is common. howevever, easy fix. i have reparied many. fabricate 1/4 steel plate to fit on inside. towards front of tractor. weld in place. drill 3/8 holes in plate. reinstall transmission. you are good to go. B)

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Save Old Iron

Just curious - not being an accomplished welder myself - Is there any real NEED to weld the backing plate in place?

With a flat washer under each of the bolt heads, and the force distributed over the whole face of the backing plate and then to the frame plate,

What would be the need to weld this backer plate in place ? And grade 8 bolts ? Do we really need 150,00 psi tensile strength bolts?

B)

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rmaynard

Just curious - not being an accomplished welder myself - Is there any real NEED to weld the backing plate in place?

With a flat washer under each of the bolt heads, and the force distributed over the whole face of the backing plate and then to the frame plate,

What would be the need to weld this backer plate in place ? And grade 8 bolts ? Do we really need 150,00 psi tensile strength bolts?

B)

I was going to ask the same question myself Chuck. Seems a bit overkill to weld it in place. Basically all you are doing is adding a big-a$$ washer.

Bob

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sorekiwi

In the case of the picture above, I dont think there would be any real need to weld up the cracks themselves, or weld a plate to the other side.

I have a welder sitting there, so if it was mine I probably would do it, but I dont think its necessary.

Instead of using washers under the bolt heads though, I probably would make up 2 straps, each with 2 holes in it, to act as a washer. This will at least tie each pair of holes together.

I also dont think grade 8 bolts are necessary. In fact Grade 5 might be better there anyway, because there are some bending forces at that point, and a Grade 8 bolt just might be too brittle to handle that.

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Don1977

In the case of the picture above, I dont think there would be any real need to weld up the cracks themselves, or weld a plate to the other side.

I have a welder sitting there, so if it was mine I probably would do it, but I dont think its necessary.

Instead of using washers under the bolt heads though, I probably would make up 2 straps, each with 2 holes in it, to act as a washer. This will at least tie each pair of holes together.

I also dont think grade 8 bolts are necessary. In fact Grade 5 might be better there anyway, because there are some bending forces at that point, and a Grade 8 bolt just might be too brittle to handle that.

I think it's all how you plan to use the tractor. If you are going to use a snow blade, snowblower, tiller, or turn plow, weld the cracks, add the plate and weld it. It needs to be welded to the triangle brackets on each side to stiffen the connection. The other reason for welding the cracks and plate is the formed ridges holds the plate away and will allow the original bracket to move and made to cracks worse. If it's a show tractor or just used to mow, just weld the cracks, and grind the welds.

If your going to the trouble to fix it go ahead and do it right !

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rmaynard

Don,

Thanks for your opinion. Point well taken.

Bob

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