C-125 REAR LIFT PARTS

[illinilefttackle 399]

Hey guys- I'm trying to get an idea of what I need for parts to hookup my rear lift for my Brinley Plow-from lift arm under hood stand-back to clevis hitch . Any body got any pics? I'd like to fabricate the stuff if I can-I looked in the Master viewer by Toro-but it's as clear as Mud how it works-Thanks-AL :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

Try the tiller IPL at the MPV, Al. ( 07-36TL02 )

It shows all the lift stuff except fo the tube -- which is normally already on the tractor.

(Part #12 mounts between the sides of the rear fender bracket, just above the rear of the transaxle.)

[Kelly 1,029]

Not sure if this is for your tractor Item number: 190203127047

[illinilefttackle 399]

Not sure if this is for your tractor Item number: 190203127047

Thanks Kelley -I dont no if it would fit or not-anybody know? -AL

[illinilefttackle 399]

:thumbs:

I got this stuff off Evil bay-its off of 500 series tractor 1980's- What else do I need? A cable, isn't there supposed to be a plate that holds one tube down,etc? Thanks-AL :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

Did you look to see if the tube bracket is already there, Al?

[illinilefttackle 399]

Nothing there-no tube no bracket-just a buch of grass clippings-AL :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

P/N is 108903-01 for the clamp, Al.

It's about $5 at the Toro dealer.

[illinilefttackle 399]

Should I buy a cable-or can I just make one?-AL :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

You could buy the new parts, but you'll have about $70 tied up in them!

Maybe you could find the stuff used, or try to make something up that will work. :thumbs:

[Kelly 1,029]

I made my last 2 cables from TSC with stainless cable, clamps, the tear droped shaped things to put on the cable at the bends, and a mini clevis 1/4" all for less than $20 each.

[Rollerman 290]

Al I was going to say the same thing Kely did, check with TSC.

I have built a few cables with parts from there & cheap as Kelly said.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

And like I stated in a previous post somewhere....

An emergency brake cable off of a car, truck, or van works great too. They already have an end on the cable that you can use to hook to a factory style clevis. The other end can be cut and looped around a thimble (Kelly -- that's what the "U" shaped thing is called. ) and fastened with standard cable clamps. Attach it to the lift arm with a clevis and pin and you're all set.

E - brake cables really come in handy on the older tractors without the tube on the top of the transmission. You can use a piece of the E - brake cable housing and make up a nice new lift cable that is usually teflon lined.

I used a cable off of a late 80's Mustang on the last one I made. :D

[Kelly 1,029]

"The other end can be cut and looped around a thimble (Kelly -- that's what the "U" shaped thing is called. )" I knew that I was just testing you TT :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

I never knew what they were called until I started working for the lime plant about 12 years ago.....

When they told me it was called a thimble, I said "WHY????"

The older mechanic there said "what's a thimble do when you put it on your finger?" At first I told him "it gets stuck!", and he got mad! .....Then I told him "it protects the end of your finger."

He looked at me and said "DUH!"

Here's my sign! :imstupid:

[Kelly 1,029]

Really after you said that, I rememdered, on the bin at TSC that's how it's maked, and I also said WTF. when I was typing I had a brain fart. you know CRS happens after 40 I'll be 42 this year.

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

Those old mechanics out there at the plant had some really strange names for certain things, so I didn't believe him at first.

I went and looked it up in the parts book, and haven't doubted it ever since. :thumbs:

[Rollerman 290]

I used cable ferrule's at TSC...just make sure you crimp them well.

I have not lost an implement yet.

[illinilefttackle 399]

:thumbs: Ok guys-my rookieness is showing again! I got my parts from ebay-I'm assuming I can get the clevis pieces & thimbles, and cable from TSC-How do I determine the right length of the cable?-right position of the back levers? Which chain goes where? Forgive me-I need a drawing or something. Thanks for all your help!-AL :thumbs:

[illinilefttackle 399]

Bump :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

Al,

You're going to have to experiment with things since you're not using factory parts.

The best advice I can give you is to install the hitch and mount the plow to it. Lift the plow up and set it on a block about 8 or 10 inches off the floor. Install the pieces you just bought off ebay in the fender bracket and hook the shorter chain between the shorter arm and the arm on the hitch. (Use a chain clevis and pin on each end.) Push the "under fender" arm forward until all of the slack is out of the chain -- you might only need to use 3 links of the 4.

Raise the attachment lift completely up on the tractor and feed the cable up through the tube on the transmission and the hoodstand until the end of it is near the lift arm "under the dash".

Loop the cable end around a thimble and secure it with two clamps. (The U bolt part goes on the cut-off short end of the cable, and the saddle goes on the long side.) Attach the looped end to the bottom hole on the lift lever arm with a clevis and pin.

Move to the rear of the tractor and install a thimble on to a clevis and attach it to the long arm of the shaft under the fender with a pin. Thread the cable around the thimble and pull it tight. Place two more clamps of the cable, and try the lift out to see if you have the cable right.

When the plow is sittiing on the floor, there should be some slack in the cable/lift chain. (So the plow will penetrate the ground by about 6 to 8 inches.)

[illinilefttackle 399]

1056-Wow! Thanks-that's what I call step by step instructions-I'll be going to TSC Friday-to get all the parts-while I'm there I want to look at some Tines or something to make a cultivator-I have the scrap steel If I can get my camera tp work I'll take pics-Thanks -AL :thumbs:

[.5racer 14]

Garage door cables are mad that way and most are about 10 to 15 a set . Get them at TSC ,Westlace (Ace) hardware. Allready cromped and thimbled and in dfferent sizes too .

[illinilefttackle 399]

:thumbs: Evil Bay! I should have known when I ask the guy if it would fit-he probably had no clue-just said yes to get me to buy. The tubes fit ok, but the heavy rod with the arms on it is too long-it's runs into my saddle gas tank-Can I cut it to fit and cut grooves for snap rings? If so I guess I line the long arm up with the end of the tube-then mark where to cut right?

I never saw a cable with a thimble hooked to a clevis and a pin-got any picks? Does the thimble go thru the hole in the clevis? As you see, my rookieness is showing again-AL :D

[TT-(Moderator) 1,131]

You can cut the ends off the cross shaft, Al. I don't know how you can put new snap ring grooves in it, but you could always double hose clamp it on the inside of the bushings so it wouldn't slide sideways.

You could also cross drill it and install some 3/16" roll pins through it.

I drew a picture of the clevis to cable hook-up because I don't have any real ones: