Dw Andy 0 #1 Posted February 13, 2010 I bought this GT 14 tank on eBay a while back, looked good then, But now on closer inspection I can look into the filler neck and see daylight. sure enough the seam is split. Coudn't see it from the outside. Has anyone tried the plastic welding that they do like on plastic car parts? Since I already have a lot invested I would like to fix this. Used tanks don't come up too often. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markslawnmowerworld 4 #2 Posted February 13, 2010 I have made alot of quick fixes in my shop on plastic fuel tanks by using a weller soldering iron. it does work but you must be very steady handed when doing this or you could make the leak worse... I have also seen profesional kits for sale at eastwood.com that will work as well...... B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dw Andy 0 #3 Posted February 13, 2010 Hmmm Eastwood, I forgot about them, don't send a catalog anymore.Plastic weld kit If I could get plastic rods I might try practicing on the old tank (with my soldering gun) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynut 4 #4 Posted February 13, 2010 put some jb weld on there and let it dry then ur back in buisness Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickv1957 72 #6 Posted February 13, 2010 JB weld is a very good product but does not stick to plastic well,Rick Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dw Andy 0 #7 Posted February 13, 2010 JB weld is a very good product but does not stick to plastic well,Rick I couldn't remember what I used before, must have been the JB (peeled off ). The original tank has a crack across the top, and if I filled more than half full the gas would slosh out. not sure how this happened. I thought maybe the PO used a non vented cap and the tank collapsed under vacume. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KC9KAS 4,741 #8 Posted February 13, 2010 A place in LIMA OHIO called United States Plastics (GOOGLE them) might have plastic rods for plastic repair. I purchase a LOT of plastic items from them, and they are reasonable on prices, and darn quick on delivering! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #9 Posted February 13, 2010 and just my 2 cents Harbor freight has several options for plastic welding "air guns". Google their site, and search for "plastic" I have their $39 gun which essentially is a soldering iron attached to a low flow air source. Hot air from the gun melts plastic rods listed and welds them into the molten pieces of the tank - just like metal welding actually. And just as technique sensitive. Be sure to get Polypropylene rods - I believe that's the material the tanks are made from. Some automotive supply stores sell an adhesive that sticks to polypropylene - 99% of the stuff on the market WILL NOT STICK to polypropylene. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dw Andy 0 #10 Posted February 13, 2010 and just my 2 cents Harbor freight has several options for plastic welding "air guns". Google their site, and search for "plastic" I have their $39 gun which essentially is a soldering iron attached to a low flow air source. Hot air from the gun melts plastic rods listed and welds them into the molten pieces of the tank - just like metal welding actually. And just as technique sensitive. Be sure to get Polypropylene rods - I believe that's the material the tanks are made from. Some automotive supply stores sell an adhesive that sticks to polypropylene - 99% of the stuff on the market WILL NOT STICK to polypropylene. Didn't see the air gun but they had this Plastic Welding Kit Oh and BTW your 2 cents are worth a lot more THANKS! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #11 Posted February 13, 2010 Here's the welding gun and the plastic weld rods are listed on the same page http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=41592 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pumper.atv 26 #12 Posted February 14, 2010 Here's the welding gun and the plastic weld rods are listed on the same page http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=41592 i haveone of those ain't the best but you can pretty good with a lot of practice i would try it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #13 Posted February 14, 2010 Used tanks don't come up too often. Look in the classifieds here I just put a GT14 up to partout Duane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 233 #14 Posted February 14, 2010 My C-100 came with a split seam in the bottom of the fuel tank. I purchased a new replacement, but held on to the old one. When I compared the two, I saw that the bottom of the old tank was sort of shrunken in, maybe causing the split the seam. I have had success repairing plastic fuel tanks on pro power saws with Marine Tex, but the tanks hadn't changed shape, just had a saw chain break and knock a chunk out of the tank. I'm not sure I want to try and repair a fuel tank so close to a hot engine, and above electrical things. On the other hand, I would give it a try on the newer models with the tank under the seat. Just my opinion, of course..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tarcoleo 119 #15 Posted February 14, 2010 In the world of model airplanes, a pretty good repair to a tank can be obtained using aluminum foil. Place the foil over the crack and drag a hot soldering iron over the foil covering the area of crack underneath more or less. Do not pull foil off until its all cold. Try it, might work for you. Tom in RI Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tractorman 0 #16 Posted February 14, 2010 go to auto part and buy a epoxy plastic repair kit it works good the stuff is strong there is all kinds of stuff u can do if u knew anybody with a plastic welder u could do it that way to Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjsdad 18 #17 Posted February 27, 2010 I once needed to repair the plastic fuel tank in my Dodge pick-up. The mounting straps had been tightened too tight and caused a crack in the top! The tank was black same as a WH. I ended up using a LARGE soldering iron for heat and black zip-ties for the filler rod. It worked great! B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites