Starting B80 Restoration

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Your making a great start!,Rick

Thanks! Will keep progress posted :thumbs:

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Progress for the day: 6 parts primered and ready for paint. Hood still needs welded, might get done tomorrow. By the weekend, tractor will be mostly red... B)

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Hello, it's been a while since ive updated my progress but i have gotten alot done since then.

Here is the Hood and Crank case sheet metal:

Starting the break down...

Frame:

Transmission:

Rolling Chassis:

Up next is the body/subframe/dash tower, rear fender, side steps and other small parts. Motor break down and cleaning/painting is last. Opened trans. and all looks good, minimal wear, fresh oil and new hitch pin. Replacing all/most hardware with grade 8 nuts/bolts.

[rmaynard 15,715]

Nice to see progress being made.

Bob

[jdwheelhorse 0]

yes! im hoping to get done soon. it's looking real good so far.

what is the easiest way of getting the tire off the rim? flat screw driver after deflation?

[rmaynard 15,715]

Are you still liking the Krylon Cherry Red?

Bob

[MikesRJ 552]

mods please delete ... wrong thread (duh).

[Roger from southern Iowa 1]

You're making lots of right decisions on this job.

Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.

[jdwheelhorse 0]

mods please delete ... wrong thread (duh).

what?

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Are you still liking the Krylon Cherry Red?

Bob

yes i love it. its cheap and it looks good and dries within 20 minutes, and over a period of time it's pretty durable.

[d200 0]

I love B-80's. I also have a restored one. Still need to figure out a new air cleaner design. Had to replace blown kohler 8 hp for a new 10 hp briggs pressurized. Good luck with the resto. :omg:

[rickv1957 72]

Looks like your B80 is coming right along,nice work!!,Rick

[jdwheelhorse 0]

I'm stuck at the moment because i cannot get the steering wheel off...is there anyway to take the pinnion gear off the end of the shaft and take the shaft collar off from under the dash? and then just pull the whole shaft out? Any help would be appreciated!

thanks.

[Wheelbearing 49]

I'm stuck at the moment because i cannot get the steering wheel off...is there anyway to take the pinnion gear off the end of the shaft and take the shaft collar off from under the dash? and then just pull the whole shaft out? Any help would be appreciated!

thanks.

Heres how I did it. puller from harbor freight.

I did have to drill a 1/2 hole through the plastic till I hit the top of the steering shaft. but that under the cover anyways.

[jdwheelhorse 0]

well, isnt there a pin that goes through the bottom of the steering wheel and through the shaft? i couldn't get it out, and i couldnt even get the shaft collar off thats under the dash. I guess im just gonna paint it with it there and work around it.

thanks.

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Subframe is done, gastank tray area is done, putting engine on tomorrow, and should have a running tractor. Gonna start rewire soon and also might be buying another horse that needs rewired and carb.

WIll post pictures later. :omg:

[Duff 206]

well, isnt there a pin that goes through the bottom of the steering wheel and through the shaft? i couldn't get it out, and i couldnt even get the shaft collar off thats under the dash. I guess im just gonna paint it with it there and work around it.

thanks.

JD, those roll pins are a real b**ch, and they used them in a few places on the tractors. I invested in a set of roll pin punches (not that expensive) and found with PB Blaster, some heat and patience, I was able to get them out. That shaft collar, on the other hand - I had to cut them off my tractors with a Dremel tool. But replacements are available for a variety of sources and not that bad cost-wise. On the tractor I'm finishing up now I got a stainless shaft collar in case I ever need to take things apart again.

Duff :D

[rmaynard 15,715]

The roll pin cannot be heated without seriously damaging the plastic steering wheel. If PB Blaster and a pin punch won't get it out, you might try drilling it out. Then you can use a wheel puller as shown in 'wheelbearings' post to get the steering wheel off the shaft.

Bob

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Ok, Just worked around the steering wheel and this is progress so far:

dropping the engine in tomorrow and painting rear fender, should have a drivable tractor!

[MikesRJ 552]

The roll pin cannot be heated without seriously damaging the plastic steering wheel.

Not quite true!

There is a product named Hot-Stop ( http://www.mechanicstimesavers.com/shop/intro/hotstop.asp ) which when sprayed on the spokes of say an RJ-58 it will not allow the heat to migrate out to the handle. I have personally cherried the center of now three wheels and have not damaged the hand grip at all. In fact the grip did not even get warm while the center hub was literally glowing red.

This situation I suspect is a bit different from an RJ, but the product could be useful in this one as well. I don't have one of these machines, so I wouldn't know from Adam.

EDIT: I now understand how the wheel is assembled and don't think even this product would help under the circumstances.

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Got the motor dropped in yesterday and ran into a little problem...seems like i need a new belt because the clutch pully is not stopping the belt all the way. So what is the best cheap brand of belts to replace ours? or do i need to stick with original?

[TT-(Moderator) 1,145]

I don't have one of these machines, so I wouldn't know from Adam.

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/image/10-8/R-002.JPG

^^^^^ That is your tractor, isn't it? :omg:

[MikesRJ 552]

I don't have one of these machines, so I wouldn't know from Adam.

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/image/10-8/R-002.JPG

^^^^^ That is your tractor, isn't it?

Hence the reason for the edit. I realized it after the original post when I actually got out of my chair and looked.

[rmaynard 15,715]

The roll pin cannot be heated without seriously damaging the plastic steering wheel.

Not quite true!

There is a product named Hot-Stop ( http://www.mechanicstimesavers.com/shop/intro/hotstop.asp ) which when sprayed on the spokes of say an RJ-58 it will not allow the heat to migrate out to the handle. I have personally cherried the center of now three wheels and have not damaged the hand grip at all. In fact the grip did not even get warm while the center hub was literally glowing red.

This situation I suspect is a bit different from an RJ, but the product could be useful in this one as well. I don't have one of these machines, so I wouldn't know from Adam.

EDIT: I now understand how the wheel is assembled and don't think even this product would help under the circumstances.

Mike,

This is the pin that he is talking about. You can't heat this pin without damaging the plastic.

Bob

[jdwheelhorse 0]

Painting of large parts is complete. Will post pictures later today, also wiring headlight and two tails tonight. Decided to go with a tail light on each side of the fender and put a decal in between because there are a bunch of holes i did not get filled.