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forphase1

Need battery information on a C-160 automatic

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forphase1

After reading the forums here for the past few days, I decided to buy this old Wheel Horse off a guy. It runs, but needs some TLC. It is a 1975 C-160 automatic. The first thing I need to know is what kind of a battery does this tractor need? The guy I bought it off of had a car battery sitting on the left foot rest, and I know that can't be right! :thumbs: So I need some advice about size/brand/model/etc. When I get the chance I'll post some pictures of her. I'm excited about restoring it, that's for sure!

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TT

:banghead:

A regular 300-ish amp "lawn & garden" battery will work fine.

I think the battery box is large enough to hold a 22NF "car" battery. Unfortunately, they're about triple the price. (but they will last about three times longer so it evens out :WRS: ) I'll leave it up to you do the measuring. :thumbs:

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stevebo

:thumbs:

That is a nice model machine. The battery is a lawn and garden tractor battery. I would suggest at least 360 cold cranking amps. You can get them locally at most parts stores but many people have said to stay away from the wal mart batteries (ask Sparky). Looking forward to pics and seeing the restore. I would suggest making sure you get it mechanically correct prior to restoring it. You never know-

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forphase1

Awesome. Thanks for the quick response!

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rickv1957

I would buy the bigger 22nf battery,Rick

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forphase1

Just wanted to post of picture of what I'm talking about. :thumbs:

IMG_0662.jpg

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TT

Before you buy a new battery, you might want to think about buying a battery box. :thumbs:

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forphase1

Good point! Guess I kinda looked over that. I appreciate it!

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rick

I don't see a fuel tank under the hood, maybe that is where the battery should go.

Is the fuel tank under the seat?

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TT

The corner of the gas tank is visible (faded black) just in front of the "C-160" decal on the tank tray.

It's not the correct tank (he posted more pictures elsewhere) but it'll work. :thumbs:

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rick

Hard to see, but on magnified perusal, I see the other trappings of an underhood fuel tank...sorry.

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forphase1

Yeah, it's not the standard fuel tank. I've got the original, but it's got a small crack running down the seam that I need to fix before putting the original back on. Thanks for all the input!

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Dresden Guy

"Magnified perusal".... I'm joining another forum that doesn't use more than one-syllable words. :thumbs: All kidding aside, I went to see this C-160 tractor in person and the guy started the K341 by forcing gas in the cylinder with an air hose, and you're right it is the wrong tank, but he said the other had a split in it. Would a 22NF car battery, being taller, hit the bottom of the original gas tank and maybe the bouncing cause a split? I don't know.

All in all, it's a good tractor and great package of goodies.

Dresden Guy (Steve M in Ohio)

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Docwheelhorse

Don't bother fixing the gas tank... there are plenty of good used ones laying around. Also---the battery boxes are easy to find, but I would really check and see if this magic 22NF car battery will fit----its tight enough with the standard lawn and garden one when you mount them on the frame like this tractor requires.

Tony

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TT

I have a 1968 Raider 12 with a 22NF battery in it. (it's what it calls for)

I know there's enough room between the engine and the steering gear for the battery to fit (in the corresponding box), so the determining factor is the actual battery box. (which isn't even there on this tractor)

As I said before...... it's entirely up to him to. :thumbs:

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can whlvr

i know on my c160 that a standard lawn tractor battery is too small in the battery box and i have to strap it in with bungie cords so it does not bounce around,i will buy the 22 nf next battery so it fits properly

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Old Dave

I just put a new 22NF battery in the 1974 B-100 that we have at the lake house on Sat. (1-23) The dimensions on the battery are 9 7/16"L x 5 1/2"W x 9" high (to the top of the posts). The one I bought came from Batteries Plus and cost $52.99. Auto parts store wanted $82.99 for it. There is about 1" of clearance between the orignal plastic tank and the battery terminals. 350 CCA capacity.

Dave

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forphase1

Awesome advice all. Thanks a ton!

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gregg.d250

By the looks of your setup the larger (4-stud base) battery box won't fit - just the smaller 2-stud version. Your oil drain is on the backside of the engine - you don't have the clearance to utilize the larger OEM box.

I now use the factory big battery box in my Charger (Thanks Daveoman) -I was able to as the pan is oriented such that the oil drain is out in front at the grille/hood pivot. I was able to easily fit in a Group 26R (reverse oriented + post) and use car battery cables for the ground and hot lead. I've got 725 CCA if I should ever need it and another 15 lbs or so of ballast over the front axle.

FWIW

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TT

The "extra large" battery box was used predominantly on the starter/generator equipped long frame models from 1966 to late '67 /early '68. (like my 1056)

When the gear drive starter appeared on the big Kohlers, there was no longer room for the big "car battery".

The next generation of battery box was built to hold a group 22NF battery and was used on quite a few different long frame models up until about 1975.

The last style of frame-mounted battery box to be used had the "L" bolt on each end with the rod running across the top of the battery. (That should have been 1976/77) They don't hold much more than the standard lawn & garden battery.

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gregg.d250

FWIW I have a flywheel ring gear starter on the 71 Charger and still have clearance. Group #26 is not that tall a battery, and readily available like the Group 22 battery size used in other brands.

Just my 2 cents -

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leichty

Nice tractor, Lot's of potential. Make sure you switch your front tires around looks like one is backwards. Nice find !

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forphase1

Nice tractor, Lot's of potential. Make sure you switch your front tires around looks like one is backwards. Nice find !

Actually, that bring up an interesting point/question. I saw the front tires looked backwards to me, but the guy I bought the C-160 from said that's they way you want to do AG tires on the front, facing that way. Since they arn't being used as for propulsion, he said they get better traction facing this way. Anyone know if that's accurate or not?

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TT

They are on a non-driving axle so the direction of the tread means absolutely nothing.

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