joel_400 59 #1 Posted December 31, 2009 I have a one bottom plow on a david bradley 725 it seems to work pretty well, but I've been thinking of hooking it to the back of a Wheel Horse with hopes of being able to pull it a little better. Also, I'm not real sure it is set up properly on the D.B. so that may be part of the problem. I'm kinda wondering if anyone has pointers on how to set these up to make them work more efficiently? Especially if I'm going to go through all the work to mount it to the back of a Wheel Horse? Maybe even pics of one that is set up properly. Any help in getting her diggin' deeper and working better would be appreciated. My plans are to participate in a local plow day with all the antique tractor guys I know.....and not look like a bonehead when I show up! Thanks Joel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 653 #2 Posted January 11, 2010 :thumbs: Well, plows can vary. Is it a sleeve or clevis hitch setup? Or is it a 3 point. Plows work on the "suck" principal, meaning they generally pull themselves into the ground and the depth is set by either the tailwheel or the mounting point. This can also be affected by the pitch of the moldboard assembly on its brackets(the mainframe) it should be close to parallel with the draw point of the plow. Also the share should be good. Does yours have a coulter? that helps also. Scour it up nice in light or sandy ground if possible and it will pull easier. Have fun with antique guys 6wheeler Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qd-16 14 #3 Posted January 11, 2010 Its not a very good picture, but here is my plow that I made work with my wheel horse 856 (don't know what brand plow it is). It raises and lowers with the slot hitch on my tractor, just had to add a piece of flat stock onto the plow to slide into the hitch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #4 Posted January 11, 2010 Operation Instructions Brinly Moldboard Plow Model PP-500 Series PREPARING PLOW FOR USE: The plow bottom must be cleaned so dirt will slide off the moldboard without sticking. Wipe the polished surface with a rag soaked in turpentine, naptha, or gasoline. An old brick or a pumice stone can also be used to remove the protective coating, but usually this is not necessary if soil is not too wet. IN order to maintain a proper plowing cut width, refer to Figures A & B and chart. Measure inside distance between rear tractor wheels - refer to following chart for proper hitch attaching hole. NOTE: When extreme plowing conditions are encountered (or whenever wide, high flotation tires are used) it may be desirable to reduce the width of plow cut. (for example, 8" or 9" wide with a 10" plow or 10"-11" with a 12" plow). This can be accomplished by hitching plow (1) or (2) holes over to the left from recommended setting given in charts. Inside Dim. Inches Between Rear Tractor Wheels Plow Size 8" Plow 10" Plow 12" Plow 18" Use Hole #1 - Fig. A Use Hole #2R - Fig. B 20" Use Hole #2L - Fig. A Use Hole #1 - Fig. A or B Use Hole #3R - Fig. B 22" Use Hole #3L - Fig. A Use Hole #2L - Fig. A Use Hole #2R - Fig. B 24" Use Hole #3L - Fig. A Use Hole #1 - Fig. A or B 26" Use Hole #2L - Fig. A 28" Use Hole #3L - Fig. A DEPTH ADJUSTMENT: The plow point pitch or suck is controlled by depth control crank. Turning this crank clockwise will cause plow to go deeper, counter-clockwise shallower (Fig. C). COULTER ADJUSTMENT: Coulter should be adjusted to slice 2"-3" deep. While making this adjustment, the coulter limit stop pin should also be set to prevent coulter from swinging into plow beam or bottom. If properly adjusted, coulter will be free to swing outward a limited amount from beam but will not be free to swing in to touch plow beam or bottom (Fig. E). LANDING ADJUSTMENT: The plow bottom will react similar to a rudder while ground engaged. If plow point is too far from left of beam, plow will tend to over cut and leave a ragged furrow wall. This condition can be readily corrected by making the following adjustment: Loosen 2 bolts attaching plow bottom ti standard - turn land adjusting bolt clockwise two turns Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
6wheeler 653 #5 Posted January 12, 2010 :thumbs: Tim I couldn't have even remotely said that as well as you did. It kinda looks like the way my dad taught me to set up our 6 bottom plows, but I didn't see any czech swear words so maybe his directions were different. thanks for putting that on. I am saving it. 6wheeler. :banghead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #6 Posted January 13, 2010 The original file has pictures also, I just couldn't figure out how to post them here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
catman81056 3 #7 Posted January 13, 2010 Go here for the complete instructions; http://www.weekendfreedommachines.org/tech.../plowsetup.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
joel_400 59 #8 Posted January 19, 2010 Thanks for the great input guys! I really appreciate it! Maybe I can get back to that project after I get some other ones done! First I need to get the loader project done though! haha! One after another and too many irons in the fire! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
big mike 13 #9 Posted January 19, 2010 Get that bad boy tuned and ready to turn dirt......spring is only 2-1/2 months away. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Indy w h 5 #10 Posted January 19, 2010 Get that bad boy tuned and ready to turn dirt......spring is only 2-1/2 months away. I'm with ya there , Big Mike. Let the dirt fly!!!! Indy :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites