Clear Coat?

[chesbaycruiser 83]

Just wondering what folks thoughts are regarding the use of clear-coat.

I haven't gone too deep into the posts, so I apologize if I'm covering old ground here, but I don't recall reading anything about it.

Are most folks finishing their projects with clear-coat, or simply the paint, (or polish, wax, etc)?

Just wondering....

Thanks,

Chris

[GlenPettit 1,717]

Go for it. Clear coat will really shine up the finish and protect it: both from the Sun's UV and minor scratches (the clear coat will scratch but rarely into the paint, and it's easy to polish up a scratch in clear coat). As I understand, the trick is to have 3-4 coats of Clear coat, and always do a light sanding between each coat with finer grit sandpaper each time.

It's important to carefully follow the re-painting/coating times on your paint containers, and to always stay within the recommended windows, you will reduce many potential problems. And you must let the paint/coat fully dry before a wax polish, again, read & follow the directions.

Some of the professional painting members will chime in here . . .

[MikesRJ 552]

That's a sticky question! There are no "Most Folks" around here. You'll get as many opinions as members. Each of us has personal preferences, methods, and purpose. Clear coating is normally done when you want a great looking machine with a high shine. The downside is it normally doesn't hold up well over time for a working machine.

My 2 Cents;

- If your doing a show-only tractor, I would say clear coat the whole thing. Lightly on everything except on the hood, fenders, and outward facing covers where you'd want extra shine and multiple coats of clear. 400-2500 wet sand and buff with compound.

- If your only doing a worker, I'd say do 2 coats of paint on everything and do a 400-2500 wet sand on the painted hood, fenders and side covers, then buff them out with a good automotive compound. Clear coating is nice on a worker, but will soon get pretty dulled up if you have a dusty yard.

As always, it's your choice as to what you are trying to achive.

[linen beige 14]

do a 400-2500 wet sand on the painted hood, fenders and side covers, then buff them out with a good automotive compound.

Clear coating is nice on a worker, but will soon get pretty dulled up if you have a dusty yard.

As always, it's your choice as to what you are trying to achive.

I'm a bit curious about what seems to be a common practice nowadays.

Since most rubbing compounds are in the 1000-1200 grit range, why sand to a grade past 600? The finer grades of abrasive papers are really designed for polishing plastics not paint.

There's a reason a clear coat will dull in a dusty environment. Almost all clears are softer than the color coats. That's a point that doesn't seem to get mentioned often, but might play in the decision of whether to use clear. I personally prefer to use a clear mixing base (it can be pretty hard to find) mixed with about 30% color. It REALLY adds depth to the top coat and has the same hardness as the color coats.

Like Mike said, it's your choice to use what you feel best suits your needs.

[MikesRJ 552]

I'm a bit curious about what seems to be a common practice nowadays.

Since most rubbing compounds are in the 1000-1200 grit range, why sand to a grade past 600? The finer grades of abrasive papers are really designed for polishing plastics not paint.

Not sure what you're using, but I use the 3M Perfect-It Fine Cut Rubbing Compound and thought it was 2500-3000 grit.

Maybe I'm wrong and it's one of those cases where "I've always done it that way".

[linen beige 14]

Could that be why it's called "Fine cut"? There's no reason to change what works for you.

I've never found a need to use anything other than Dupont heavy duty rubbing compound followed with #7 white polishing compound myself.

[Lane Ranger 11,023]

I have been using a matte finish clear coat on all the equipment/attachment pieces that I have been rebuilding/repainting.

I think it helps keep the surface tighter as the clear as a hardner in it that seems to adhere real nice to the metal surfaces.

Seems to take the wera on mower decks real well too.

[Suburban 550 28]

Chris, it's really up to you what you want to do with your tractor. If you're building a strictly show tractor and have the money to spend, clear coat is the way to go. The finish will look like new many years down the road. If your building a workin' tractor that you use everyday I think I would use a less expensive line of paint, maybe an acrylic enamel with a hardner. As a bodyman I can tell you if you want a perfect finish using clear coat, wet sand the finish the next day with 1500 grit sandpaper and buff it with 3M Perfect-It Fine Cut rubbing compound and use a 3M glaze over the top of that to remove any swirls. I guess there are many ways of achieving a great finish but this is one I use everyday and it works out fine for me. Good luck on whatever you decide. :notworthy:

[PPGman 5]

Chris, i would agree with Ray on the clear coat issue. I just got done restoring my C-120 last year, and i ended up clearing the entire tractor. I'm a painter by trade, so this was not much of a debate in my head. Clearcoat gives you that nice deep shine, and its pretty easy to go back and fix should you have any damage along the way. If it gets a little scratched up....no problem. Just grab your polisher and a few mins its as good as new. My main consideration was i wanted something that would hold up for many years, and clean down nice. I will say like it was mentioned in a previous post, it is a dust magnet however, so keep your blow gun handy.

With that said, i can see the merits of the rattle can route as well. Automotive paint can be a costly learning curve to those who are just starting the journey with it. The products I had on hand are products i use everyday in the shop, so it wasn't like i had to go out and buy primers, sealers, base and clear just for my tractor job. If you can afford it and or have the means, the clear coat in my opinion is the way to go. Otherwise, the "rattle can", or single stage enamels are a fine choice as well......Just as long as its RED!!

Whatever you choose, if it suits you, thats all that matters! Good luck

Regards:

Doug (Milesburg) PA

[stevebo-(Moderator) 8,362]

Well said PPG man ... By the way what kind of paint do you use PPGman? :notworthy:

[Suburban 550 28]

For the average person to paint a tractor basecoat/clearcoat and don't have access to having the fringe benefits of working in a body shop you are looking at approximately $180.00 a quart of paint without the reducer and about $300.00 for a gallon of clear with the hardner. That's not including all the other materials involved. When you take in consideration spending that kind of money, the paint and material is probably worth more than the tractor itself. That's why I tell everyone, I have a good boss. :notworthy: