Wet sanding

[Anthony Wendover 124]

How long after the final coat should i do my final wet sanding?

Thank you

[VinsRJ 721]

Really depends on what kind of material you used and how long ago the final coat was completed. Whatcha got?

[MikesRJ 552]

Like Vince said, it depends on what paint you're laying down. Check the can and see what the drying time for the paint product reads.

I usually wet-sand primers (Rust-Oleum Automotive) after 24 hours, color coats (Valspar Tractor & Implement) after 48 hours, and topcoats (Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear) without issue. Keep in mind that this methods depends on temperature and humidity. Either can effect the drying time, where less than 72 degrees, or higher than 50% relative humidity, results in a longer drying time.

The real trick is how long to let the wet-sanded surfaces dry before laying paint on top of them. Any left over moisture, especially on the intermediate clear-coats, could result in significant clouding within the paint itself.

Trust me, I've been there (very recently) and almost ruined a perfect clear-coat job.

[Anthony Wendover 124]

Im using the spray cans of toro red. Last spray i did was on friday night. This is the first time iv done any paint or body work before. So im just learning things and trying things out to perfect it. The thing doesnt look all that bad actually.. Just needs to be wet sanded down.. Also what would you use for clear coat over it?

Thank you

[Raider12 13]

Im using the spray cans of toro red. Last spray i did was on friday night. This is the first time iv done any paint or body work before. So im just learning things and trying things out to perfect it. The thing doesnt look all that bad actually.. Just needs to be wet sanded down.. Also what would you use for clear coat over it?

Thank you

I would SUPER carfull with adding a clear coat to paint finish that came out of a spay can. Some of the clear coats will lift your color like paint remover. Not all rattle can paints are created equaly. Some of these products you can add the clear with in a couple of hours and some others you have to wait 24 to 48 hours after applying the color. And then there are some you cannot add clear.

[Coadster32 793]

Uhhh...wet sand?? I used the expensive toro red bomb cans also. I liked that it had a gloss finish on it. I didn't sand between coats, and I think it came out OK. It's obvious I'm not a body guy (especially when you see my bondo handiwork). Either way, my 551 doesn't look like a rust bucket anymore. All that gloss without sanding, or even a coat of wax. I'm sure it'll fade quicker, but it's stored inside anyhow.

I did find that the toro gallon can was slightly differnt than the spray bomb cans. I brushed the frame, and sprayed all of the tin. Slightly off, but only if you're looking for it. I was actaully impressed with brushing. Sorry.. :scratchead:

[MikesRJ 552]

I would SUPER careful with adding a clear coat to paint finish that came out of a spay can. Some of the clear coats will lift your color like paint remover. Not all rattle can paints are created equally. Some of these products you can add the clear with in a couple of hours and some others you have to wait 24 to 48 hours after applying the color. And then there are some you cannot add clear.

Although I agree with the statements made, it is best to use the same chemical make-up of paints when doing a primer-color-clear coating paint system.

ALL paint components should be the same chemical base (i.e. most paints from Rust-oleum and Valspar are Toluene based). Check the labels for chemical make-up and re-coat drying times to insure they are the same, and test comparability before doing your actual parts if your unsure.

For what it's worth, my rattle-can paints of preference are;

Rust-Oleum Automotive sand-able primer, under Valspar Tractor & Implement color paints, then Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear clear-coat on top.

The Rust-Oleum primer only needs an hour and a half drying time (at 70 degrees and 50% relative humidity) before it can be sanded and painted over, color coats can be applied and re-coated within 1 hour of each other (or require the full 48 hours drying time before wet-sanding and re-coat), and the clear also needs 1 or 48 hours between coats and goes on like glass over the top.

Oh, and nice job Chris!