Save Old Iron 1,566 #1 Posted October 17, 2009 Here is a set of hood hinges for an 1987 416-8. I know the one on the left is worn - but the is the hinge on the right worn also ? Is the pivot hole normally teardrop shaped for a reason or should there just be a 3/8 round hole in both hinges ? :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodge 6 #2 Posted October 17, 2009 Looks worn to me. Mine haven't been oblong worn like that, but they have been wallowed out larger. I drilled the holes larger, and used brass bushings in the holes. Works well. Or, you could weld washers with the diameter you want onto the brackets. I like the bushings better, because they can be replaced. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #3 Posted October 17, 2009 Made a pattern to locate the holes then weld them shut and redrill them.Your going to need a new shaft too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #4 Posted October 17, 2009 Thanks Hodge, I was thinking bushings but didn't know if I needed to end up with just a 3/8 round hole or a teardrop shaped opening - from your replay I'm guessing I need to end up with a bushed 3/8"round hole ?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #5 Posted October 17, 2009 Don, you are correct Sir - the shaft is worn down about half way thru. That one I can handle on the lathe - I can't weld to save my life. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 154 #6 Posted October 17, 2009 The hinges are also available new for a few dollars. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodge 6 #7 Posted October 17, 2009 I did away with the shaft, and used bushings with bolts. I was very pleased with the results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 134 #8 Posted October 17, 2009 I have only been able to find the right side new, the left side is no longer available. I have thought about getting the right side and useing it as a guide to know were to drill the hole after I weld the left side shut. I like the bushing idea but Im not sure how I would center it up. There is probobly enough wiggle room that It doesnt have to be right on. And $22 for the pivot rod seems alittle high to me, bet I have something out in the shop to make another one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hodge 6 #9 Posted October 18, 2009 I bought a brass bushing at Lowes, and drilled the holes out just large enough for the bushing to slide in. I then cut the bushing to the same thickness as the sheet metal and bracket. Using a washer on either side of the bushing, and bolting it together, the hood then pivots on the bushing. Like I said, it works well. Nice and firmed up, pivots nice, and no rod to worry about. I have done two tractors like this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #10 Posted October 18, 2009 I like the bushing idea but Im not sure how I would center it up. There is probobly enough wiggle room that It doesnt have to be right on. It seems that I have spent my whole summer fixing flogged out holes like this one. I aquired a 1276 that didnt seem to have a round hole on it, and a 25 year newer 520H which had quite a few too. When the hole is oblonged like the ones in the photo, it is pretty much impossible to drill it out oversize with a drill bit. The missing side of the origional hole will pull the drill bit off to the side, and you will end up with a big ugly hole in the wrong place. If you have access to a mill, you can sometimes do it successfully with a counterbore or an endmill, but often on our horses, the flogged out hole is in an awkwardly shaped, thin sheet metal piece that is PITA to clamp down rigidly enough. Looking at the worn holes in the picture, it looks as though all the wear is in the one direction, I would bet there is almost no wear at all across that hole. If you were to put an unworn 3/8 bolt in the hole, it should show where the origional location was. Drop a washer, or a pice of 3/8 ID tube over the bolt, and you can scribe around it to get a larger circle concentric to the origional hole. Now you have a reference so you can file (or grind with a carbide burr) the hole round again. Once the hole is pretty close to round, you can continue to enlarge it with a drill bit, or a unibit (step drill) to the size you need for your bush, or larger diameter shaft. The advantage of having access to a lathe is that you can make your own bushes to suit whatever size hole you end up with. There's a few pics of this method of repair on my 500 Special in this thread: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/index.php?...topic=8138&st=0 (about 3/4 way down the first page). If you are not going to use a bush, you can weld up the worn sections. I start the process the same way, bolt in the hole, find and mark the sides of the hole that arent worn, weld up the side of the hole that is worn the most, file the weld until the bolt fits again, weld up the next worst section, file again until the bolt fits. But just weld up one side of the hole at a time, so you dont lose the origional location. Hope this makes some sense, its harder to explain than it is to actually do.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #11 Posted October 18, 2009 Keeping with this topic, all three of the hoods on my 312's had the holes worn out and elongated. The first one I had someone weld the holes shut then I redrilled them, and will likely do the same with #2 and #3 as I get to them. But that's just one method.... To prevent this from happening again, I've installed a couple of hard rubber "shims" between the bottom of the hood right beside the hinges and the frame members to eliminate the vibration. They're just a tad too thick intentionally which forces the hood to compress them as it closes creating both tension and a shock absorber of sorts. For folks who have the enlarged hole problem but it hasn't gotten quite bad enough to really need replacing, this may be a away to buy some time. And yes, the left side hinge is NLA...... Duff :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bobert94 38 #12 Posted October 19, 2009 there is a new version of these available from toro holes are bigger and there is a plastic bushing that goes in them part # are 116746 right 116747 left 5983 bushing keeps hood from rattling as much to. csts around 10.00 for the set. :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,566 #13 Posted November 1, 2009 Thanks to all - I followed the lead of bobert94 and ordered the 3 parts recommended from JSE. All parts totaled less than $10 for the hinge pair and bushings. Below is a picture of the new parts. The bushings are a little cheesy, maybe I will replace them with bronze when they wear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sorekiwi 761 #14 Posted November 1, 2009 They look like the bushes used on all the shafts for the hydo linkages. They seem to work ok as long as the shaft and the hole arent flogged out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sarge 3,464 #15 Posted November 2, 2009 They work ok, but won't last the lifespan these things have come to enjoy. Honestly, all of the linkage and hood bushings, if done in bronze, would pretty much stop nearly any expected wear on these machines. Don't see any reason they can't last another 40+yrs if taken care of .... Sarge Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
baerpath 517 #16 Posted November 2, 2009 Plastic must be the upgrade bushing Some of mine have brass bushings on them that I bought from our local WH dealer Duane Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
