1-1/8" axel Oil Seal Info needed!

[KB9LOR 4]

Okay, I have a problem, I have nothing 1-/18" to use to drive the oil seal in on my Raider 12, I trashed one seal already, do not want to do that again, Has anyone on here replaced the oil seal on a 1-1/8" axel, and what did you use to get it to seat right? any info would be a tremendous help to me.....thanks!

Brian

[bell 11]

How about going to the hardware store with a tape measure and find a PVC fitting or pipe the correct size? Or, even better, you could take the new seal with you and match it up...

[Sarge 3,463]

I just tapped mine in with a ball pein hammer, then set them home with a piece of tubing I had laying around...

Sarge

[KB9LOR 4]

How about going to the hardware store with a tape measure and find a PVC fitting or pipe the correct size? Or, even better, you could take the new seal with you and match it up...

I did htta, the only thing they had was a lightweight PVC and it was too thin walled, that is what messed the first seal up, but I will head over to Lowes in the morning to see what they may have, and thanks for the reply, much appreciated.

Brian

[KB9LOR 4]

I just tapped mine in with a ball pein hammer, then set them home with a piece of tubing I had laying around...

Sarge

That is what I may have to do if the run to Lowes does not pan out, I have got to get a welder, then I can fab my own tool! Thanks for replying.

Brian

[tarcoleo 119]

Couldn't find the right sized tube to install a new seal in my C-81 last.

week. I cleaned out the remains of the old seal and made sure it was all

clean, applied a gasket sealer to the OD of the new seal, and used

the wheel hub to push the seal in flush with the housing. The seal then

was tapped home carefully with a soft wood paint stirrer.

Tom in RI :scratchead:

[KB9LOR 4]

Couldn't find the right sized tube to install a new seal in my C-81 last.

week. I cleaned out the remains of the old seal and made sure it was all

clean, applied a gasket sealer to the OD of the new seal, and used

the wheel hub to push the seal in flush with the housing. The seal then

was tapped home carefully with a soft wood paint stirrer.

Tom in RI

Thanks Tom, never thought of using the hub to get it on, will do that in the morning, I was bent on getting a tube of somw sort to get it in place.

Brian

[goatchay 0]

Hey Brian,

I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, or if this tool would even be helpful in your application, but I picked one up a few years ago and it's proven to be useful. It's relatively cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=35555

Chris

[KB9LOR 4]

Hey Brian,

I don't know if you have a Harbor Freight nearby, or if this tool would even be helpful in your application, but I picked one up a few years ago and it's proven to be useful. It's relatively cheap.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=35555

Chris

Chris, I do have one of those Harbor Freight retail store about 45 min drive from me, gonna have to make a run up there, thanks for the info!

Brian

[pfrederi 17,866]

Chris, I do have one of those Harbor Freight retail store about 45 min drive from me, gonna have to make a run up there, thanks for the info!

Brian

I have one of those sets also...Doesn't work if you are trying to install the seal with the axle in place.

PVC pipe and fittings work for me.

[KB9LOR 4]

Paul have tried the PVC route, either the 1" is too small, or the 1-1/4" is too big, what sizes you using?, I may try the hub method, if nothing else.

Brian

[Duff 206]

Brian, those seals aren't really held in place all that tightly (evidenced by how easy it is to pry old ones out). What I did was to take the hub off then very carefully slide the new seal onto the axle and all the way to the tranny. I then started to seat it with thumb pressure. After that I took a piece of dowel (can't remember the size, but I think it was about 3/4") and very gently tapped around the seal to seat it. The trick is to only seat a little at a time so you don't warp the metal that the nitrile seal is attached to. It actually took me longer to clean and debur the axle before sliding the seal on than it did to seat it in the tranny. JMHO....

Duff

EDIT: This was on a 1" axle tranny, but I would think the process would work as well for the 1-1/8" :hide:

[KeithB 6]

I bet a piece of 1 1/4" sced 80 PVC conduit would work nicely

[pfrederi 17,866]

Try a 1" pvc coupling. The ID is 1.32 The OD of the seal 1s 1.375 (you may have to scrape out part of the internal dividing ring if present to clear the axle)

Since the fitting is short you may need a couple or use a piece if 1-1/4 pip to push on the coupling.

I just have a bucket of PVC fitting and short pieces of pipe...sooner or later I pull out the right ones for most any seal situation...3/4" copper pipe and couplings work good on 3/4 shafts

[KB9LOR 4]

Okay everyone, FINALLY figured out why it was messing my seals up, the PO never really tightened the hub and it would rub against the cast iron tranny, and put burrs, which in turn kept trashing the seals, sooooo, it is now FIXED! Now I can get on with the front rims! thanks everyone for the tips, I finally used the hub method works real good, just takes time and WATCH for burrs!! lol

Brian

[Lane Ranger 10,992]

FYI I just used the method Tom (Tarcoleo) wrote about and it worked real nice to change an oil seal on a B-80 on what one. I will be doing the other side tonight.

Works great using an extra wheel HUB to both remove and using the flat (outside side) to reinstall the seal with even pressure.

Her are some photos of the remocal job, the HUB remover and the seal just before I used the HUB to set in the transaxle.

These photos may help others wanting to do this job.

I used carriage bolts to create the HUB remover.

This method of removing a HUB and old oil seal works the best of any I have seen before!

[Lane Ranger 10,992]

I used a large washer with a one inch hole for the one inch B-80 shaft and a PVC one inch pip connector to place/set the new oil seal on the B-80.

Here are three photos and it worked like a charm. One tap of the rubber mallet square on and you could actually hear the seal set correctly in the end of the transaxle.

My two tools for the oil seal setting job:

Placing the large washer on the shaft to fit all around the new oil seal:

Placing the one inch PVC connector piece around the shaft and up against the washer and oil seal for use of the rubber mallet:

Set up from another angle:

These photos may serve as a How To for someone else wanting to change their old oil seals.

[KB9LOR 4]

That is great! I love "How- To's", will remember that next time I work on a 1" axel. On my 1-1/8" axel I used a old 1-1/8" hub to get the oil seal in, worked perfectly.

Brian