slantram 9 #1 Posted September 20, 2009 New guy with more questions. On my C-81 (recent purchase) I took the rear wheel covers off and noticed the left hub had slid in toward the trans about 1 inch.The previous owner had put a pulley spacer between the hub and the trans ( wondered what that was there for.) Well, I took the wheel and the hub off and cleaned everything up, Never Siezed it and put it back together. Tightened the 1 set screw to 30 ft lbs (there is only one set screw on both hubs, over the halfmoon key, no hole for a second set screw.) So I ran it around the yard for 5 minutes and guess what. Yup,the hub has slid toward the trans again by 1/16 of an inch. Anyone have a solution to keep the hub in place? One other question- the manual says to torque the wheel bolts to 75-80 ft lbs.My background as a mechanic for 50 years says something is gonna give before that 7/16 bolt gets to that torque setting.( most likely the threads in the hub.) What do you guys torque the wheels to? Thanks, slantram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duff 206 #2 Posted September 20, 2009 Slantram, somewhere here in the past I think I read a recommendation that you drill and tap a second hole in the hub to give you another set screw to hold it in place, about 90 degrees (1/4 turn) offset from the one that's there. I'd feel better if one the experts chimed in on this, though. As to torque, I don't use a torque wrench on my lugs - just run 'em in snug plus 1/2 turn, then check them after an hour or so of operation. Duff :scratchead: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,580 #3 Posted September 20, 2009 The second set screw is a good idea. Also look at your current set screw. it should have a cupped tip so it can dig in to the key. Most are worn flat and will not hold. also is there a jam nut on the set screw to keep it locked in tight??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Don1977 604 #4 Posted September 20, 2009 The second set screw is a good idea. Also look at your current set screw. it should have a cupped tip so it can dig in to the key. Most are worn flat and will not hold. also is there a jam nut on the set screw to keep it locked in tight??? What has already been said plus I would replace the two old set screws and add the second ones as said above with lock nuts on all. I would also replace the half moon key on the side that slipped. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bitten 134 #5 Posted September 20, 2009 I dont know but maybe make sure that you dont get the never sieze on the key or the slots for the key might help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #6 Posted September 20, 2009 Make sure the key ways are both good in the axle and the hub, if it can rock, it will come loose, also the hub, should be a tight fit on the axle, if it just slides on and off you need a hub, most of mine that I feel are in good shape, I have to tap on with a hammer, I have a set on a tractor that come loose and both hubs are sloppy on the axles. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slantram 9 #7 Posted September 21, 2009 I appreciate all the input on my problem but nothing I do is working. Could someone give me an exact size on the Factory Original key. I think it should be 1/4 inch X 1 3/8 inch. Is this right? I'm going to replace the key because I think it is rocking in the slot when I tighten the set screw and then the hub slides in toward the trans. Thanks for any help. slantram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheel horse 1045 2 #8 Posted September 22, 2009 is the jam nut still on your set screw by chance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slantram 9 #9 Posted September 22, 2009 Yes and I locked it after torquing the set screw to 30 ft lbs. I.m thinking about using a NoRok woodruff key in place of the standard woodruff key. Any thoughts on this. slantram. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
