KB9LOR 4 #1 Posted September 16, 2009 Just bought this old girl, (69 Electro 12) and does not want to pull itself, so I am thinking of a filter and fluid change, anyone out there have any idea what filter to pick up? I do know it says to use ATF fluid, but wanting some input from some of you experienced horse owners, I do appreciate your help. Also does anyone know anything about the Tow Valve? is there a way to reset this? meaning run it all the way in or out and then backing it out or in so many turns so that you know it is real close to being factory set? Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 993 #2 Posted September 17, 2009 Not real sure about the 1968 models,but my 1975 auto you tighten the tow valve all the way in tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #3 Posted September 17, 2009 Thanks can whlvr, I will try that tomorrow, I know it can be turned in ALOT, that may be the problem. I think whoever had it messed with it, and like me did not know what they were doing, which is why I am asking so I don't make the same mistake. Once again I will try it and let you know how it did. Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #4 Posted September 17, 2009 On the same note, does anyone know what Hyd filter to get for my Electro 12? and what fluid would be best? Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 153 #5 Posted September 17, 2009 Get your filter from a Toro/WH dealer, and use a good quality Dexron ATF. If the tow valve was open, the tractor won't move under power. On the same note, with the tow valve closed you can't move the tractor unless it's running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #6 Posted September 17, 2009 Thanks kj4kicks going to find a local toro/WH dealer! Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,029 #7 Posted September 17, 2009 On that tractor the tow valve will just spin around it will not get tight, there should be a decal that tells you what way the long side of the T should point I think to the front but not sure on that, also make sure the belt engagment is pushed down, the lever on the console to the right also parking brake, does the hyd. work?? up down, are they fast or slow? make sure the belt is turning the input pulley, I'd try a few things before I spend $20 on fluid and filter, they will not fix a broken trans. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #8 Posted September 17, 2009 On that tractor the tow valve will just spin around it will not get tight, there should be a decal that tells you what way the long side of the T should point I think to the front but not sure on that, also make sure the belt engagment is pushed down, the lever on the console to the right also parking brake, does the hyd. work?? up down, are they fast or slow? make sure the belt is turning the input pulley, I'd try a few things before I spend $20 on fluid and filter, they will not fix a broken trans. If you are on a slight hill it labors to pull itself, the hyd for the deck works pretty quick, I do not think it is a broken trans, it will go very quick on level and downhill ground, but I am going to check the belt and input pulley. Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 12,382 #9 Posted September 17, 2009 If you are on a slight hill it labors to pull itself, the hyd for the deck works pretty quick, I do not think it is a broken trans, it will go very quick on level and downhill ground, but I am going to check the belt and input pulley. ALL of my Sundstrand-equipped tractors (like yours) whine quite a bit under load. It seems to me to be much more apparent than the Eaton-equipped models, and actually places quite a load on the engine if you really go up a steep incline or pull a bit of weight- again much more noticeable than an Eaton hydro. Point being- unless the tranny simply will not go up the hill when it's warmed up, or it won't move the tractor under load, you are probably OK. Just keep the fluid level (whether you use ATF or 10w-30) where it should be, and change the oil and filter when recommended. Also keep the fins on the pump clean and always keep a decent drive belt on it. Good luck! Kevin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #10 Posted September 17, 2009 ALL of my Sundstrand-equipped tractors (like yours) whine quite a bit under load. It seems to me to be much more apparent than the Eaton-equipped models, and actually places quite a load on the engine if you really go up a steep incline or pull a bit of weight- again much more noticeable than an Eaton hydro. Point being- unless the tranny simply will not go up the hill when it's warmed up, or it won't move the tractor under load, you are probably OK. Just keep the fluid level (whether you use ATF or 10w-30) where it should be, and change the oil and filter when recommended. Also keep the fins on the pump clean and always keep a decent drive belt on it. Good luck! Kevin I am wanting to change the hydro fluid before I do anything as I do not know what the pervious owner put in it, and If I change it and get an eyeball on it I can proceed from there, and yep there is a whine come to think of it, and thanks for your help! very much appreciated. Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #11 Posted September 17, 2009 Okay, silly question, but where is the drain plug on the hydro unit? Or does it drian out the filter when you remove it? for the life of me I cannot find the drain plug lol. Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kj4kicks 153 #12 Posted September 17, 2009 It's on the bottom of the case, near the drawbar support tongue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #13 Posted September 17, 2009 Thanks I found it, hidden little booger isn't it! Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,403 #14 Posted September 17, 2009 One more thing Brian. You should have the engine running at full throttle when using a hydro tractor. The speed of the tractor is adjusted with the hydro lever and not by engine RPM's. Were you possibly using it at a low RPM while attempting a hill? Mike......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #15 Posted September 18, 2009 One more thing Brian. You should have the engine running at full throttle when using a hydro tractor. The speed of the tractor is adjusted with the hydro lever and not by engine RPM's. Were you possibly using it at a low RPM while attempting a hill? Mike......... Yes was trying it at full and any throttle, but as a habit I like to change oil and such when I pick up any tractors before actually useing them, and something else, I used every SAE allen wrench to try to get the plug out but either too big or too small, maybe someone switched the original with a metric? surely WH did not use metric..... Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sparky-(Admin) 21,403 #16 Posted September 18, 2009 Maybe the allen plug is full of crud? See if you can scrape any crud out of it with a small screwdriver. I know the 8 speed tranny usea 1/4" allen and I bet the auto trannys are the same. Mike.......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #17 Posted September 18, 2009 Maybe the allen plug is full of crud? See if you can scrape any crud out of it with a small screwdriver. I know the 8 speed tranny usea 1/4" allen and I bet the auto trannys are the same. Mike.......... I used a very small screwdriver to clean it out, no dice, has to be metric, but have not tried the metric yet, too tired to try again retry tomorrow. Thanks, Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wheel horse 1045 2 #18 Posted September 19, 2009 my 1076 auto takes a 1/4 also Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KB9LOR 4 #19 Posted September 19, 2009 Yep you guys were right 1/4 inch, had some burrs on it, gonna have to replace it because the hitch wore one side down. Brian Share this post Link to post Share on other sites