Rotella T1 questions

[David414 289]

Switched over my 1989, 414-8 to shell Rotella T1 30 weight, based on recommendations from the members.

 

My questions are, I have a 1994  MacKissic model 12P-8 shredder / chipper with 8 hp brigs, that requires SE, SF, SG, 30 weight.

And a troy built roto tiller with a 7 hp. Kohler, model K161, that requires SC, CC, SD, or SE detergent.

Can Shell Rotella T1 be used in both? 

 

I have a 2013 Toro 5060-time cutter, zero turn, with a 23 hp, Kawaski FR691V engine that requires API detergent, SF, SG, SH, SJ, or SL 30 weight. Can the Rotella T1 be used?

 

2008, Sears push mower with Briggs 6.5 hp engine. Requires API detergent, SG - SL, 30 weight. Can use Rotella T1?

 

Trying to source only one oil for the different equipment and engines. All of the above equipment, except the 414-8, is used in warm months only, no winter use.

Thanks,

[Skwerl58 750]

I use the Rotella t1 30w in all of my older flat head mowers and tiller engines. I use 10/30 in my ohv engines. I have had no issues using the Rotella in the old flat head engines. I live in SWVA  and we have four seasons with moderate temps but if In a more extreme climate I would be more concerned with oil weight.

[lynnmor 7,564]

You are asking about using diesel oil in a gasoline engine.  Here is a recent post showing the usual varied opinions.  Personally I use oil made for engines of the type used on our small gasoline equipment, Kohler and Kinetix are two.

[squonk 42,547]

Use Rotella and forget about it.  This is the inside of a 48 yr. old K181. I've owned it about 5 years or so. Use Rotella 30W all year round.

 

 

This is the inside of a K341 with over 1000 hrs. I bought it at 700 hrs. and the oil inside was black as coal and it smoked. Same thing I used Rotella 30W year round. Finally had a broken piston skirt. it was still running when I replaced it and tore it down. 

 

 

 

[Lee1977 7,037]

I run 10/30 in my Briggs Vanguards. Rotella T1 all my old Kohlers, Briggs, Onan and Tecumseh they all 36 years old or older. Don't think they have tight tolerances that cause problems.

The other reason years back you could go down to the local service station and fine thee or four different brands of 30w oil, now you can't fine 30w at most places.

Edited yesterday at 03:17 PM by Lee1977

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,243]

The label on the last pail of oil I picked up has Diesel Engine Oil as the predominate info on it.

In the fine print it lists CD CE CF compatible with the C = compression type = diesel engine

Also SD SE SF compatible with the S = spark type = gasoline engine 

 

Once I read the fine print I was good to go. Thought I was out of luck.

[ri702bill 8,971]

The Rotella products have a decent amount of zinc in them - something that flat tappet engines NEED..... Kohlers are flat tappet engines.....

[ineedanother 1,396]

I run Rotella in both my diesel generator and gas small engines. I run what's appropriate for the climate and been led to believe that detergent should be used if filtered and non-detergent otherwise. Reason being that detergent oil causes contaminants to float and circulate to the filter, whereas non-detergent is more apt to allow contaminants to gather in the sump. I change oil regularly and have never had reason to be concerned about it beyond that.

[kpinnc 13,739]

I have no choice but to keep it simple. My engine inventory is limited, so it makes it easy. 

 

Flat tappet engines with splash lube: Rotella 30W. 

 

Full pressure lubricated engines: both Vanguard and Kohler make thier own synthetic oils with added zinc. My Vanguard 14-23hp engines run 5W30, my 26hp runs 15W40. I've seen Amsoil in small engine multi-weight versions with zinc additives but haven't tried them. 

 

Onan P-series of course breaks the rule. I run Rotella here because it's one of the few high quality 30W oils still available. 

Edited 18 hours ago by kpinnc

[Roger R 458]

Incidentally, AMSOIL  makes a synthetic oil strictly for all small engines. I have been using it in everything with good results so far.  My snowblower tractor cranks over in the very coldest weather as fast as it does in summer.  Sure helps in cold weather starting.

[clueless 3,111]

With all that equipment just buy a 15gal barrel with a pump of T1 and your good to go. I put that s**t in everything.

[Lagersolut 723]

I've been using Rotella T1 in my old Kohlers for 25 years or so - straight 30w is no longer a common grade even the Tractor supply here is hit or miss - my new honey hole is Auto zone on the diesel rack - some years back ( was either Auto Zone or Advanced don't remember )  had a sale on Pennzoil straight 40w for 50 cents a quart - discontinuing the grade in the store - bought all of them - ran it in my old Briggs on the Troy bilt - engine seemed to like that 40w so after the Pennzoil was used switched to Rotella straight 40w . I tried a multi grade in a pinch for the Briggs years ago and it left me know it wasn't happy with a puff of smoke here and there moving around in the garden - too thin ....all my older stuff gets the straight grade

[Bill D 2,091]

If price isn't an issue, I'd go with Amsoil ZRod 10W-30 or 10W-40.  Extra zinc for flat tapped cams and an additive package designed prevent surface rusting of interior parts during long term storage.  If price is a issue, Mobil 1 10W-30 or 10W-40 will work fine.   I personally use Mobil 1 10W-30 in everything I own.  I can get it at BJ's for around $35 for 6 quarts.